Z-man

Seb - you know I was just bustin' your chops about the mud flaps - right?

But as for the cost of upkeep on a Porsche - you won't get much sympathy from me. It is costly to keep these things on the road. Pay up or buy a Honduh.

-Z-man.

95Juan

let me counter UDPride's argument.


I am a big, stupid, 19 year old mexican with bananas for fingers.

before i got here, the biggest job i did was an oil change on my mom's camry, and i even managed to mess that up because i broke a bolt on the oil pan. (dont ask)

i'm so impatient, I almost threw my leaf blower one day when it wouldnt start

I cannot (read, can not) do anything for more than an hour before i get bored and start making excuses to do other things.

and

I have kept my 951 running through 2 things-

1- screaming

2- rennlist

anything is possible with rennlist, a digital camera, and local 'listers with the tools and knowledge to save you BIG bucks.

ubercooper

its cool, i knew u were kidding.

I know that running a Porsche, let alone a 944, is expensive. But after owning the car for about 9 months and having it only work and run for about 1 of them is just disheartening considering I have not tracked it or driven very hard that much.
If my mech. says the problem is the tranny, then I will (hopefully) have a small tech session (call it what you will) with refreshments and such at my house.
Juan- Good point, I think I am underestimating the power of "the list". I'll try to keep up the faith even though my parents are trying to tempt me with a lease on an 03 evo or 04 sti.

-Seb

95Juan

this is a bad idea.

if you plan on going to college, get a corolla or something.

cars eat money

faster cars do it with more efficiency.

pozican

EVOs and STIs go through clutches SOOOO fast.

Besides, it's much better to own a car rather than lease a car

95Juan

+1

buy a bulletproof beater until you can afford to buy a car you like.

jwlester

Something just doesn't sound right here. So, you are able to drive it in first gear just like normal? You just cant shift? Are you able to engage the clutch and pull away from a start normally? I would look at the hydraulics since they were just worked on. If you didnt replace the slave cylinder and line that connects the two when you replaced the master cylinder I would bet good money that one of those went out or will go out as soon as you get this problem fixed. Sounds like everyone needs to take a couple deep breaths and do some diagnosis. don't underestimate everyone here. You should be able to do just about anything with Rennlist and Clark's garage. Even if you don't do the work it is ALWAYS better to have a good idea of what is wrong before you darken the door of a mechanic. Good luck and keep asking questions.

Cheers, Josh

yellowline

If it needs a transaxle...Rennlister, meet classifieds:

https://rennlist.com/forums/for-sale-ads-member-to-member-fs-wtb-free/333910-944-s2-transaxle-w-107k-miles.html

I'd buy it if I shredded a trans.

Dynamite 76

Three responses I'd like to make:

UDPride: You're only supposed to remove three screws, not the whole front of the car. Just Kidding, can't believe no one said that yet, great writing.

95Juan: My NA Porsche seems pretty slow, but still sucks money down quicker than gas.

And ubercooper: You gain a whole new perspective on your vehicle when it is no longer your daily driver. The smartest thing you could do for your car is to buy a yourself a beater, so when the Porsche is out of commission you can still get from A to B and get back and forth from parts/tools store. I didn't even change the oil on my civic before, although I have done things like that. Then when I bought my Porsche, in 8 months I am on my way to the Porsche hard lesson learned mechanical school. Take for instance replacing my speedo cable. No problem, read up on it at Clarks, good to go. So when the damn thing won't pull out of the wheel I figure crap, the little end is broken off, and now I'll have pull the rotor to get the thing out so it doesn't destroy something. Proceed to disassemble rotor but the damn cap wont come off, then I notice a clip and remove it. (Note: 20 year old road grime makes clip, end, and cap appear one piece) Can you believe, it was holding in the old speedo cable end, and I had even read that at Clark's, just forgot about it. So I struggled w/ a job that should have taken no time and nearly cost myself a ton more money. In the end, I got it done, and now know how to do it. I've removed the injectors for service, replaced nearly every fuel system component, bleed my brakes (yikes, this one has me worried), and numerous other things. Would I remove the transmission. No, but then again, I would not pay anybody money when I can screw it up pretty well myself, with a education in Porsche Mechanics learned the difficult way. My Porsche is on it's way as a dedicated track car. I have the luxury of only needing it for fun a few days out of every month. If I had to pay somebody to work on it I would have just stuck w/ the Civic.

Good luck.

PorscheDude1

Have you checked where the shift rod connects to the shift linkage at the transmission? If you had a recent clutch job, the bolt that holds the shift rod to the trans linkage may have backed out. That bolt should be safety wired together. Alot of mechanics over look this last step.

Mike C.

A more detailed description of what happens when you try to engage 1st would help. Does it grind as if the clutch is not releasing? Does it go into 1st fine but then you can't upshift? If the latter then I would side with the 'check shift linkage' suggestion first. If you can't get it into gear at all then I would look carefully at the clutch hydraulics for leaks (slave cylinder, clutch hose). You might want to invest in a pair of car ramps so you can safely get the car up and take a good look under there (you will also need some 2" x 6" x 3 foot lumber extensions to get the front of the car up without scraping the valence). Even if a synchro is worn out, careful shifting (double clutching) will allow it to still be driven. A broken synchro is another matter - if you drain the tranny fluid and see brass particles it could be a broken synchro. If you had a clutch put in recently it shouldn't be that. If not, it could be a clutch disk rubber donut problem.

ubercooper

ok, here is EXACTLY what happens when I move the car (after started).
I put clutch in and put in 1st. the car moves and shifts flawlessly for about 3-4 shifts. After the 4-5 shift, when I release the clutch pedal the car will jerk back and forth and I hear grinding and the noise and vibration increases as I let off the clutch and on the power. After it is in gear, the car will run normally...until I need to shift. I have not looked at the underside of my car or inside the tranny linkage because I do not have a (suitable) jack and I would rather not get crushed by using the stock one.
This happens in all gears and under all weather conditions. But the car WILL run and shift fine for the first few shifts.
When the car gets to the mech. this weekend I will post his "professional opinion" and see if anyones bull**** detector goes off.
Thanks
-Seb
edit: clutch HAS been replaced within the last 5 months. and no, not with another rubber one.

Mike C.

Wow that is a head scratcher.... Did they resurface the flywheel when doing the clutch?

ubercooper

yup.
I feel somewhat better knowing that not only my mechanic and I are confused.

billthe3

Have you forgotten to feed the gnomes in the tranny? What about your annual sacrafice to the porsche gods?

Hope it isn't anything too big.

And I second the idea to get a beater that you can use when the porsche needs work. A 90-95 camry with high mileage is great, cause they last forever and barely need any work, and are cheap. And you don't have to worry about it getting bashed in parking lots or whatever.