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suspension questions

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Old 02-03-2007, 04:02 PM
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GodSpeed
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Default suspension questions

I have decided to use part of my tax return to get some new shocks and struts for my 85.5na. I would like to know if there is anything that i need to get other than the shocks. Also, do i need to get the car to an allignment shop after the install? and lastly is it really worth the exta $$ to get the bilstiens or konis? my 944 is my dd and i havent raced it at all but i would like to start autoxing.
TIA
Dan
Old 02-03-2007, 04:08 PM
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ibkevin
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For a dd NA, Konis should be fine.

Install 968 castor blocks, check tie rod assys, and rebuild your a-arms before the alignment.
Old 02-03-2007, 04:52 PM
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J Silverman
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Good shocks are always worth the money. I prefer bilstein, some prefer koni. I dont need adjustability in a daily driver, plus I prefer the high pressure monotube as opposed to Konis twin tube shocks. If you are going to autocross dont cheap out on the shocks. Bilsteins are $450 or so, Konis are $600. While you are in there you may also want to replace the strut bearings/bushings. If you buy Konis you might want to replace the bumpstops. (Bilstein uses an internal bumpstop so you dont have to replace them, in fact they wont even fit on the shaft.) Youll want to get an alignment after you are done. You can mark the eccentric bolts on the struts with nail polish to keep the alignment specs sort of right so you dont have to worry abotu driving to the alignment shop.
Old 02-04-2007, 02:07 AM
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PeteL
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I just put Konis all around on my daily driver...also put 250# springs with adjustable perches..It is awesome. The car is way more stable, and way more fun to drive. The ride, with the konis set at softest setting (default) is not harsh at all, unless you are on cobblestones....a very worthwhile improvement for the car.
Old 02-04-2007, 03:10 AM
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knfeparty
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I don't think you can get any more bang for your buck than koni sports from paragon.
Old 02-04-2007, 05:56 AM
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tifosiman
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Originally Posted by ibkevin
For a dd NA, Konis should be fine.

Install 968 castor blocks, check tie rod assys, and rebuild your a-arms before the alignment.
Agreed. Two more things:

1. Check your upper strut mounts. Those are prone to failure and while you have the car apart this would be the time to replace.
2. Order new strut hardware from Paragon when you order the Koni's. It's a good idea to replace the the eccentric bolt/nut, and the lower bolt nut. (the ones that attach the strut to the spindle)
Old 02-04-2007, 10:21 AM
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sweet9fortyfour
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I've been looking paragon is a little steep check these out nice for the money 1350 for struts, camber plates, and rear coil overs.
http://www.ground-control-store.com/...hp/II=696/CA=4
Old 02-04-2007, 11:21 AM
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shiners780
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Originally Posted by sweet9fortyfour
I've been looking paragon is a little steep check these out nice for the money 1350 for struts, camber plates, and rear coil overs.
http://www.ground-control-store.com/...hp/II=696/CA=4
Something to consider with these: They state the front units are 1" shorter than stock. If you are then unable to drop the rear 1" by using the eccentrics, you may end up having to reindex the torsion bars to maintain the proper roll axis. I just wanted to mention that, because reindexing the torsion bars is a whole lot more work than just swapping out struts and shocks.

Regardless, it does look like a nice package.

(I'm pretty sure you get rear shocks though, not coilovers?)
Old 02-04-2007, 11:27 AM
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sweet9fortyfour
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It is just shock not coilovers ....sorry
Old 02-04-2007, 11:45 AM
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J Silverman
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The GC konis are revalved koni yellow s with a shorter shaft. The shorter shafft wont lower the car it just compensates for havng a lowered car. The shorter shaft keeps the shock more in its "operating range" when lowered so the shocks wont require you to reindex, but if you use the adjustable perches to lower it you may have to.
Old 02-04-2007, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by J Silverman
The GC konis are revalved koni yellow s with a shorter shaft. The shorter shafft wont lower the car it just compensates for havng a lowered car. The shorter shaft keeps the shock more in its "operating range" when lowered so the shocks wont require you to reindex, but if you use the adjustable perches to lower it you may have to.
Why would anyone purchase this package with a shorter shock shaft if they weren't going to lower the front end?

Your statement is true. But I think the intent of the manufacturer, seeing as how they include a reduced length shaft, is to use these units (via perches) to lower the front.

We're saying the same thing; although I made the assumption that no one would purchase these with the intention of maintaining stock ride height.



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