Instructions (comic strip) that came with my koni rear shocks show lifting the car on a lift by the wheels. Haynes manual (I know, it's wrong all the time, don't flame) says to let the wheels hang in the air. I've got two ramps, two jack stands, and a rolling jack. What should I do?

And do the shocks come from the factory at an acceptable setting, ready to put on the car?

 

ot: whered you buy your koni's and how much did you pay? Still looking for the best deal

 

Ive always jacked up the car and removed he wheels when doing the rear shocks. You could probably do it on ramps since the weight of the car is being help up by the springs but I like to have room to work.

Generally the konis dont come with any type of setting from the factory. Id start off by first adjusting it to the softest rebound setting and add 1/2 turn or so. Drive the car, and adjust until you find setting that you like.

 

The Koni instructions are not car-specific. On a 944, you need to get a 19 mm wrench on the top bolt head, which is in the wheel well. The rear wheels need to come off for this. However, when the suspension is hanging it is held by the shock absorber, so you should put a jack under the trailing arm and just take the strain off the shock bolts before you undo them. This will help save the threads on your schock bolts and will make re-install much easier.

 

This is a stupid question, I installed my rear konis last week. I adjusted them both all the way to one side and then put it on a mid setting. Which way is stiffer and which way is softer?

Knfeparty-to adjust the shocks, make sure you take out the plastic ring and the bump rubber. The best way I found was to place the shock upright on a work bench, compress it all the way, and turn both shocks all the way to one end to ensure you have them both on the same setting and then adjust to suit.

Good luck,

 

knfeparty,

When taking my konis out/putting them back in, I did the following:

1.) Jack the car up
2.) remove rear wheels
3.) use floor jack to lift trailing arm slightly (to take tension off of shock)
4.) remove bottom and top mounting bolts for the shock
5.) pull shock out

Installation is reverse of removal

 

"Installation is reverse of removal"


Ah yes - the destroyer of souls.........

 

Ramps have worked well for me when changing rear shocks. Shouldn't take more than 30 minutes - I found the wheels to not be in the way at all.

 

I did it on a lift in about 10 minutes. The rear wheels do not need to come off.

 

Hmmmm. I will try this tomorrow. Pixelgrinder, pm'd you.
Right now I'm at school and on a tuesday I can't get my hands on any air tools. I am thinking backing it up on ramps and trying that. I will have to wrastle around the wheels to get that top bolt out, but I won't have to use any jacks at all, right?
And the bump rubber/clip thing I was able to figure out from the comic strip. I am pretty positive that for the fronts that use the ****, counterclockwise is firm, and for the rears clockwise is firm. I will be sure to reset them both since it isn't for sure that they both come set at something. I'll probably go all the way out and then put in one 180 turn. And by the way, am I going to spin the car out if I put these on before I am able to mod my struts and put the koni sport inserts in the front? It seems like even on soft, the extra dampening in the rear might give me a lot of oversteer.

 

Just take it easy until you install the fronts and youll be fine.