genikz

First things first:
1988 924S
158k miles
and I searched, but didn't find an answer to my specific quesion


I did my rod bearings today, which went really well. I started with #2, since 2 and 3 were at BDC when I started. I realized when I moved on to do #3 that I coated both top and bottom #2 bearings with oil, both the side facing the crank AND the side facing the con rod.

Obviously there is no rotation going on on the con rod side, so would lubricating that surface promote spinning that bearing when I fire it up?

Should I pull those bearings off and dry them up on the connecting rod side?

Thanks!
Chris

1988 924S
soon-to-be-944-Spec

owner944

No, it should be fine...

picklejuice52

when i rebuilt my 351W I did the exact same thing. The truck is history now, but the engine was perfect. I beleive you did the right thing!

genikz

Cool, thanks guys. I feel much better now!

M758

Nope... there are a couple tabs in the rod bearings that prevent them from spinning under light contact like what would happen at start-up. Of couse these have effect at 5000 RPM full throttle, but not much does. What you do want to do is drive the car easy on the roads for 500 miles then change the oil. This helps break the bearings it a bit. I did not do it on any of my 3 rod bearings jobs, but I have heard from a trusted source that it is a good idea. If the car has plates it can't hurt.

joseph mitro

did you use assembly lube? that's thicker and will keep the bearings coated better until you can start the car up. the oil may flow away. anyway, you will be fine with what you did. everything gets oiled in there anyway

xsboost90

thing to do is crank it awhile w/ the DME relay out after its all back together and get oil pressure before you put a load on the bearings. THat way you know they are getting oil when they need it.

968gene

Did you use new nuts as suggested by Porsche?

genikz

Thanks for the responses everybody. To answer some questions: yes I did use new con rod nuts, torqued to 55 ft/lbs, then 59 ft/lbs per clarks-garage instructions. I also used a penny sized amount of assembly lube on the connecting rod side of the bearing surfaces. I was really careful to match up the keyed sides of the rod bearings (as if you could even install them wrong!?!)

Joe: What do you mean by "plates"? Crank scraper? Oil pan baffle?
By the way, it took me another 15 minutes of wiggling of the oil pan to get it off the oil pickup after we talked...what a PITA!!

joseph mitro

yes

M758

License plates for driving on the street.

15 min of wiggling is about right for a first time removal.

genikz

OH! haha

It's registered, insured and ready to go. I had to order new engine mounts though, since one side literally fell apart in my hands.