Coolant leaking from timing chain cover
12-18-2006, 05:50 PM
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Coolant leaking from timing chain cover
During a 300 mile road trip in the 87' S the temp started to climb near the end of the trip. It got almost to the last indication before the red zone so I pulled over, let er cool down a bit. I noticed coolant dripping from the bottom of the T/C chain. The coolant was low so I re-filled the coolant and it did'nt get hot the rest of the 30 mile trip home. The next morning I saw a good bit of coolant down the driveway.......I did find one thread with the same sympton that indicated a bad waterpump but the thread kinda died out before that was confirmed. Does this sound like I'm looking at a W/P replacement ?
12-18-2006, 06:05 PM
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That was my first thought. I've had the "S" 4 months and have have records of a T/B replacement about 2000 miles ago but no record of a W/P. Clarks garage has a good write-up about w/p replacement....any other good resources out there on the web ?
12-18-2006, 06:38 PM
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It's a weekend warrior so it's parked for now. I'll probably make a seperate post for some local wrench help. I might even consider paying a local Rennlister to do it for me. I just don't know if I can devote the time right now. I've heard to stay away from rebuilt w/p...any opinions on that ?
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12-18-2006, 06:56 PM
#8
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Take a look at the small coolant line that runs from the top of the waterpump, next to the oil filter into the coolant pipe above the exhaust manifold. If thats leaking it will drip coolant off the belt cover. Certainly better than changing the waterpump.
12-18-2006, 07:41 PM
#9
Burning Brakes
The "S" car has a tendency to saw through the lower coolant hose with the adjacent belt, so I've noted when mine did that and the replacement belt came with extra netting on it to seemingly better protect the hose in case of accidental contact. So check that.
12-18-2006, 09:15 PM
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I would take a hard look at the heater control valve (as mentioned above). I was sure I had a bad WP...turned out to be a heater control valve. If so, replace the plastic unit with the Audi metal one. I'm in Waxhaw and might be able to help.
12-22-2006, 10:24 PM
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Make sure the crank shaft bolt is properly torqued (156 ft lbs) and the little "weird" spacer washer on it is oriented properly upon reassembly. You do like oil pressure don't you? Ask me how I know!
12-22-2006, 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by major
Make sure the crank shaft bolt is properly torqued (156 ft lbs) and the little "weird" spacer washer on it is oriented properly upon reassembly. You do like oil pressure don't you? Ask me how I know!
12-24-2006, 12:06 PM
#13
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I would just tear her down and get it back together completely updated and correct. It really is a warm fussy feeling to have all that stuff perfect when you are cranking her up toward redline.
Once you open up the timing belt area, there is no sense in doing things half arsed. It actually is a nice winter project.
I would get ready to do the pump, rollers, all the seals, belts, thermostat and o-rings. Possibly some hoses. I got most of the stuff through Zims. Their rebuilt waterpump was pristine. And I usually do not trust rebuilds. But this one was exceptional. But I did not use their belts as I wanted continental.
I usually do the oil cooler seals too if they are original. Regardless of mileage. It is just easier with the front of the engine apart. You will need a tool or a bit of guesswork to get the alignment of the relief valve right or that can mess up your oil pressure too.
You will need some special tools (spanner, belt tension guage, flywheel lock) and even with that a bit of belt tensioning common sense as the "cricket" is only a guide. Unless you can borrow a porsche tensioner from someone. And if you are changing the upper cam seal (at least on the non-S head), you will need a cheesehead socket and a bit of nerve (and usually heat) to get the bolt out. Order a new bolt just in case.
OHHHH. And definatly be carefull when you tighten the crank pulley as said above. If the washer is not perfect, you will get a false torque. And no oil pressure.
Once you open up the timing belt area, there is no sense in doing things half arsed. It actually is a nice winter project.
I would get ready to do the pump, rollers, all the seals, belts, thermostat and o-rings. Possibly some hoses. I got most of the stuff through Zims. Their rebuilt waterpump was pristine. And I usually do not trust rebuilds. But this one was exceptional. But I did not use their belts as I wanted continental.
I usually do the oil cooler seals too if they are original. Regardless of mileage. It is just easier with the front of the engine apart. You will need a tool or a bit of guesswork to get the alignment of the relief valve right or that can mess up your oil pressure too.
You will need some special tools (spanner, belt tension guage, flywheel lock) and even with that a bit of belt tensioning common sense as the "cricket" is only a guide. Unless you can borrow a porsche tensioner from someone. And if you are changing the upper cam seal (at least on the non-S head), you will need a cheesehead socket and a bit of nerve (and usually heat) to get the bolt out. Order a new bolt just in case.
OHHHH. And definatly be carefull when you tighten the crank pulley as said above. If the washer is not perfect, you will get a false torque. And no oil pressure.
