You can pull the alarm box and jump 4 of the ports (2 seperate wires), and it will take care of the factory alarm issues. There are pictures in the archives if you do a search.

 

looked at them already....but 1st I need to get that damn door opened!

 

I am dealing with a similar problem. I bought a project car that had a an inop driver's side door handle. You could open it up from the inside, but not the outside... upon disassembly, I saw the pivot's rollpin was missing, so I got a cotter pin to replace it. It didn't like the cotter pin, and still wouldn't work. To make the job easier to work on from the outside, I closed the driver's side door. Mysteriously, the inside release became inop, and now i have a driver's side door that's closed and incapable of being openned.

I can see the mechanism still works from the inside, if the door panel, but nudging the door still will not open it, so I'm going to see how much I can disassemble from within the doorjam to get to the striker release, if at all possible.

Gotta love the annoying jobs!

 

please let me know how you make out....I'm still locked out! Have not had enough consectutive hours to really 'dig in' to it yet.

best

Joe

 

Ok, I popped it last night. For the record... IT IS A PAIN IN THE ***!

That being said, you're going to have to pull of the weatherstripping on the inside of the door surround. When you get that pulled away from the doorjam near the striker, get a pait of pliers and wrap their jaws in electrical tape (to protect some metal we're going to bend). Grab the interior panel and doorjam junction piece (that holds the gasket-like piece you just pulled off), and bend it inward for about a 3" section just below the striker plate. Get a thin flat head screwdriver, and fish your way into the doorjam, and grab the lower tab with the flat head, fry downward, and whala- your door is open.

It's simple on paper.. but a royal, frustrating PITA to do. When you're done, obviously bend back the area you bent, and reinstall the trim gasket.

Good luck, Joe!

Now... to figure out why it just did that...

 

outstanding! Now I have something I can try over the weekend. Thanks for the tip and sorry it was such a PIA!

Can't wait to be able to open the door...so I can figure out why the F#$k this happened!

best

Joe

 

BIG THANKS FSAEracer!!!! Got it today! THANK YOU for the 'how-to'!

 

NICE!

 

So, why did it happen?

 

Luis

There was another thread...but there's a small spring on the back of the lock cylinder that returns the cylinder when you turn the key...it somehow came off and got jammed in the mechanism. I took it all apart and found the problem...got the spare parts from Todd and my wrench threw them in when he was doing my transmision work...replaced everything while in there just incase anything else was about to fail. All is good!

 

Thanks Joe.

So, should I start by pulling the door handles to see if I can clean things up?

 

I have done that with all 3 of my 944`s. Remove the windows and all the lock parts and handles,
clean and relube with white lithium spray grease and reassemble.

 

Quick thread hijack.....

When you removed the windows did you keep the glass on the lower support or remove it and reglue it? I got a response in another thread that said to pop off one of the wheels on the support. Is this how you removed the windows? Thanks!

 

Luis

Can you currently open the door? If not then you can do as I did (per Kevin's suggestion above) and get the door opened...once I got mine opened and was able to look it over with a cut from the workshop manual in hand I found the problem

 

Yes, the doors open well enough. It's just the CLM that's completely dead. The locks feel hard when I turn the key inside the cylinders.

Do you think I should pull the door panel and check the door lock motor?