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Stone guard??Walnut shells, Glass Bead, or Poly beads???

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Old 11-02-2006, 07:59 PM
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NeoRules
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Default Stone guard??Walnut shells, Glass Bead, or Poly beads???

Given up on trying to do a normal repaint on the PDP so I am going to blast the body fresh so that I can find more of the lovely hidden damage the po claimed wasn't there LOL.....

Just like the title states... should I buy walnut shells, glass beads or try the new expensive poly plastic stuff from eastwood....
All you paint and resto experts slam down your oppinion and poke fun at the newbie

I know that silica and aluminum oxide is way to damaging and will heat the metal possibly warping it as well as embedding itself in the surface....

Let me have it..!!!
I have read the eastwood site but I need experience .....
To keep costs down I am going to blast it on an open grate trailer with plastic underneath so I can sift and re-use as much media as possible... (I am cheap)...

After the car gets blasted I am going to remove the house paint off the Fuchs as well so keep that in mind when suggesting choices....

Thanks Guru's

Last edited by NeoRules; 11-03-2006 at 07:53 PM.
Old 11-02-2006, 08:04 PM
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RyanPerrella
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you want to blast what, the entire car? Or parts? What you buy depends on what the material is, wether it be steel or aluminum etc etc. If you want to do the whole car you take it to a place that does media blasting. an entire car isnt the type of thing you do in the garage. Not to mention you would probably need a few hundered Lbs of the stuff.

Look for a media blaster, they arent the thing you see too often but i woudlnt suggest you doing something like that yourself, its cost, time and space prohibitive.
Old 11-02-2006, 08:05 PM
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RyanPerrella
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a place that does this will typically have only one abrasive media so they would do the steel body and teh aluminum wheels with the same stuff.

Honestly i think your cars too young to need to be media blasted. Thats usually done on 40 year old cars that have had a dozen paint jobs and has body filler made from peanut butter.
Old 11-02-2006, 08:16 PM
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Uhh.. well I like to try everything (almost) once myself LOL....
I am getting a couple hundred pounds of media and have a "tent" garage set up for the process...

The PO had put tons of bondo in the rear quarter and the car is covered in medium size chips... I think he used house paint on some of the repairs.... then painted decent paint over it and clearcoated the mess......

Just goint to do the shell, fenders and wheels. I think the bumpers and hood can be sanded regularly......

I went to remove the stone guards and found that the rears disappear under layers of bondo...
I just thought they didn't go all the way around and under the back (maybe someone cut them before putting them on) but found they are covered in mudd...

I figure what better way to learn......
Old 11-02-2006, 08:56 PM
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RyanPerrella
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well your more ambitious then i am, i still wouldnt reccoment it, but get whatever eastwood reccomends for paint removal. Thats really all your doing, they should have a chart that shows whats best for different applications. Buy a ton of it, make a huge mess and have fun
Old 11-02-2006, 09:15 PM
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Mike B
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I'm with Ryan...you're making too much work for yourself. I would consider sanding it off. See the link below.

http://www.autobodystore.com/strip_&_paint.htm
Old 11-02-2006, 09:28 PM
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Be very careful with 'any' media when working on a galvanized body. All media will leave the same dull gray color on steel, exactly the color of the galvanizing. Personally I think you are making a mountain out of a molehill and could easily cause more issues with the repaint than you have now. If you are confident you can differentiate the different layers by sight in a dusty sealed room while wearing a full air-supply helmet and face shield you are much better at it than me. You can always identify the bondo areas and concentrate on getting them close to stock profile and use less filler. I doubt if your car will ever be bondo free from what you describe though.
Old 11-02-2006, 09:48 PM
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You probably are correct...
But thats the fun of it....
besides I worry more about welding on a galvanized body than blasting it...
But I did forget that the body is galvanized until you just mentioned it....
guess I might have to hold off on blasting this one..

save it for the 71 cutlass... It's gonna be off the frame soon anyway....
Old 11-02-2006, 10:01 PM
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Old 11-02-2006, 10:35 PM
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Neo, are you doing the body and paint work or is someone else?
Old 11-02-2006, 10:53 PM
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I am...
Old 11-02-2006, 11:00 PM
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I've heard that blasting with baking soda will not harm the metal.
Old 11-02-2006, 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by SD Porsche Fan
I've heard that blasting with baking soda will not harm the metal.
I've heard the same thing about corn starch....
But corn starch is way down on the abrasives scale.... I think is down around 2.

walnut shells (2.5-4.5 on the Mohs scale), glass beads(5.0- 6.5),and sand (quartz) (8.0)
Steel is around 5 on the Mohs scale so Glass beads would probably damage or heat the metal...
Aluminum Oxide is aroung 8-9....

http://www.kramerindustriesonline.co...ting-media.htm
Old 11-02-2006, 11:43 PM
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RyanPerrella
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but your removing paint you dont need a strong abrasive, what would you think 300 grit sandpaper is on your scale, 1 or 2?

from the pics i think your crazy to do all that excess work, car dosent look that bad, probably has original paint on it, in which case there is only one layer to remove. The soda blasting and whatever blasting is good when you have an older car with layer upon layer and they all need to be removed to create a strong foundation for your new paint. They do that so you dont put a nice new coat of paint on old, cracking tired crap paint.

just fill whats bad, if its really screwed up pound it out , fill in the imperfections and repaint. Its not rocket science.
Old 11-03-2006, 08:54 AM
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Actually there is a lot of blistering and stuff on the fenders. Deep cracks and some peeling...


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