Jackstand or ramp?
#2
Nordschleife Master
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First off make sure the rear wheels are chocked.
Personally i would put the car on jackstands, usually i position the stands right under each frame rail. The ramps are easier but it helps to have the extra space available with the wheels off. Plus this is a job where the higher you have the car off the ground, the easier it is to work on. Also your life will be easier removing the tie rod ends with the wheels off.
Personally i would put the car on jackstands, usually i position the stands right under each frame rail. The ramps are easier but it helps to have the extra space available with the wheels off. Plus this is a job where the higher you have the car off the ground, the easier it is to work on. Also your life will be easier removing the tie rod ends with the wheels off.
#3
Herr Unmöglich
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I like ramps since they remove the possibility of any damage to the chassis. But having clearance is nice like Jon said, so I regularly pull the car on ramps, do some work, jack it more and put it on stands, do some brake work, then reattach wheels and lower back to ramps for engine work. I've used the motor crossmember for stands and had no issues.
Here's Rich's famous pic showing all the good points on the bottom of the car...
Here's Rich's famous pic showing all the good points on the bottom of the car...
![](http://www.schwanks.com/944/944jack.jpg)
#4
Rennlist Member
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im using the ones w/ the red arrows and circles to hold the front of my car up while i remove the engine- never had a problem using those in the last four years and several engine swaps etc...
#5
Chainsaw
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If your jack is not a low profile jack, drive the car up on some wood planks. This should raise the car enough to get the jack under it, so it can be lifted high enough to place it on the stands.
#6
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I drive mine up on 4x6's with a 2x4 attached to back half for extra clearence if needed. I will change the 2x4 to a 2x6 when I come accross some scrap pieces.
Of course I have the other end with a beveled or 45ish cut to be able to drive up to the top of the 4x6.
This works well for oil changing and any other repairs that don't require removal of frt wheels. Piece of mind when you know there's nothing that can happen to make the car fall. I chock the rear wheels also.
Of course I have the other end with a beveled or 45ish cut to be able to drive up to the top of the 4x6.
This works well for oil changing and any other repairs that don't require removal of frt wheels. Piece of mind when you know there's nothing that can happen to make the car fall. I chock the rear wheels also.
#7
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for a steering rack, the ramps may actually be better... That way the tires won't change position much while you take off the rack and it'll be easier to get the tie-rod ends back to the same aproximate position (measure the old rod ends closely still) to get the alignment close till you can get a proper alignment.