tranny drain plug woes and questions
#1
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tranny drain plug woes and questions
long story short, the fill plug on my manual trans is almost stripped. how can i get it out? ive used tons of liquid wrench, ive tried "waking it up". nothing works.
im ordering replacements off pelican parts maybe, but i looked at the picture, and can anyone tell me what kind of hole that is? what wrench do i use?
im ordering replacements off pelican parts maybe, but i looked at the picture, and can anyone tell me what kind of hole that is? what wrench do i use?
#2
Nordschleife Master
You need a 17mm allen key for that.
You may want to get a 17mm head bolt and stick it in there, then put a few nuts on the end of the bolt and try turning it with a conventional wrench or socket.
If the threads are completley destroyed, have someone weld the head of a bolt into the plug (be careful as the gas tank is right above you) and then give it another go with some nuts threaded on the end.
You may want to get a 17mm head bolt and stick it in there, then put a few nuts on the end of the bolt and try turning it with a conventional wrench or socket.
If the threads are completley destroyed, have someone weld the head of a bolt into the plug (be careful as the gas tank is right above you) and then give it another go with some nuts threaded on the end.
#3
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If enough of the plug is sticking out, you may want to try a bolt extractor - not the common one, but the one that looks like a hex socket, but has some sharp edges inside. No drilling is required. They sell it in Sears. Wise grips might work too, but the bolt extractor is probably a better bet.
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Here is the way I got a stuck drain plug out!
1. I bought an L-shaped 17mm allen wrench at Sears (big f'er Cost: $8).
2. I took it to a shop and had them cut about 1" off the long end (Cost: free).
3. Went to Auto zone and bought JB Weld (Cost: $3)
4. Went back to the car mixed the JB Weld, dipped the 1" 17mm allen in it, then stuck it in the striped bolt.
5. Making sure the 1" piece was straight, I took a piece of tape and ran it top to bottom of the tranny covering the 1" piece and holding it there (Cost. $0.50).
6. Waited for about 8 hours.
7. Took a 17mm SOCKET and 12" breaker bar and put it on the 1" 17mm piece of allen wrench, turned it counter clockwise, God be with him, there was a magical "tink" (Cost: priceless).
I drained tranny, installed a new plug with anti-sieze, filled tranny, and installed new fill plug with anit-seize.
Yes it was a PITA.
1. I bought an L-shaped 17mm allen wrench at Sears (big f'er Cost: $8).
2. I took it to a shop and had them cut about 1" off the long end (Cost: free).
3. Went to Auto zone and bought JB Weld (Cost: $3)
4. Went back to the car mixed the JB Weld, dipped the 1" 17mm allen in it, then stuck it in the striped bolt.
5. Making sure the 1" piece was straight, I took a piece of tape and ran it top to bottom of the tranny covering the 1" piece and holding it there (Cost. $0.50).
6. Waited for about 8 hours.
7. Took a 17mm SOCKET and 12" breaker bar and put it on the 1" 17mm piece of allen wrench, turned it counter clockwise, God be with him, there was a magical "tink" (Cost: priceless).
I drained tranny, installed a new plug with anti-sieze, filled tranny, and installed new fill plug with anit-seize.
Yes it was a PITA.
#7
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I just went through the same problem of getting the plugs out. A 17 mm Allen key gave an awkward and inadequate grip.
As seen in the picture I made a stainless “hex-converter” consisting of a 17.3 mm hex with sharp edges in one end and 19 mm hex (for a regular socket) in the other. Then hammered the hex-converter into the “abused” plug and finally used a breaker bar to get them both out. I would estimate it required 100 to 150 ft-lb of torque.
Btw, should the plugs have magnets in them? As seen, none of mine had.
Laust
As seen in the picture I made a stainless “hex-converter” consisting of a 17.3 mm hex with sharp edges in one end and 19 mm hex (for a regular socket) in the other. Then hammered the hex-converter into the “abused” plug and finally used a breaker bar to get them both out. I would estimate it required 100 to 150 ft-lb of torque.
Btw, should the plugs have magnets in them? As seen, none of mine had.
Laust
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#8
Burning Brakes
Oh.... My least favorite topic ever!
When I "tried" to remove mine it was a terrible experience. I used the sears 17mm hex key which did a great job of giving my hand a permanent scar (See pics). Since the key provides the worst grip ever, your hand will easily slip off causing it to be flung directly into the razor shape muffler heat sheild. Blood shall be spilt all over your garage and you'll be unable to work on your car with your good hand for a while. After you heal you can go back to the nightmare. In the end I had to drill the old POS 17mm allen head out, flush the trans countless amounts of times to be sure no metal shavings were still inside and take alot of time with helocoils...etc. Probably the worst experience I have had with my car to date.
When I "tried" to remove mine it was a terrible experience. I used the sears 17mm hex key which did a great job of giving my hand a permanent scar (See pics). Since the key provides the worst grip ever, your hand will easily slip off causing it to be flung directly into the razor shape muffler heat sheild. Blood shall be spilt all over your garage and you'll be unable to work on your car with your good hand for a while. After you heal you can go back to the nightmare. In the end I had to drill the old POS 17mm allen head out, flush the trans countless amounts of times to be sure no metal shavings were still inside and take alot of time with helocoils...etc. Probably the worst experience I have had with my car to date.
Last edited by Dave951; 05-25-2008 at 10:00 AM.
#9
Nordschleife Master
The best method i found was using the 17mm allen key from Sears and a big pair of ViseGrips. Grip the end of the allen key and it will give you a pretty fair amount of extra leverage, aswell as not completley kill your hands.
I need to change my fluid again soon.. i hope that sucker isnt stuck on! It was easy to get off last time, lets just hope its the same way this time around!
I need to change my fluid again soon.. i hope that sucker isnt stuck on! It was easy to get off last time, lets just hope its the same way this time around!
#10
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by Dave951
Oh.... My least favorite topic ever!
When I "tried" to remove mine it was a terrible experience. I used the sears 17mm hex key which did a great job of giving my hand a permanent scar (See pics). Since the key provides the worst grip ever, your hand will easily slip off causing it to be flung directly into the razor shape muffler heat sheild. Blood shall be spilt all over your garage and you'll be unable to work on your car with your good hand for a while. After you heal you can go back to the nightmare. In the end I had to drill the old POS 17mm allen head out, flush the trans countless amounts of times to be sure no metal shavings were still inside and take alot of time with helocoils...etc. Probably the worst experience I have had with my car to date.
When I "tried" to remove mine it was a terrible experience. I used the sears 17mm hex key which did a great job of giving my hand a permanent scar (See pics). Since the key provides the worst grip ever, your hand will easily slip off causing it to be flung directly into the razor shape muffler heat sheild. Blood shall be spilt all over your garage and you'll be unable to work on your car with your good hand for a while. After you heal you can go back to the nightmare. In the end I had to drill the old POS 17mm allen head out, flush the trans countless amounts of times to be sure no metal shavings were still inside and take alot of time with helocoils...etc. Probably the worst experience I have had with my car to date.
#12
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Originally Posted by aribop
Yes, plugs should have magnets in them.
The oil was a little dirty (fine metal powder I guess) and with the new oil the box is a little quieter.
#13
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Originally Posted by Techno Duck
The best method i found was using the 17mm allen key from Sears and a big pair of ViseGrips. Grip the end of the allen key and it will give you a pretty fair amount of extra leverage, aswell as not completley kill your hands.
I need to change my fluid again soon.. i hope that sucker isnt stuck on! It was easy to get off last time, lets just hope its the same way this time around!
I need to change my fluid again soon.. i hope that sucker isnt stuck on! It was easy to get off last time, lets just hope its the same way this time around!
im gonna try vise grips, or that fancy cut-the-end-off-the-allen-key-and-jbweld-it-into-the-plug idea
#14
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I'll see if I can find the part number but my BMW transfer case drain plug is the same size and has a solid hex head and a shoulder for a crush washer. People that dont use anti-seize on drain plugs are just plain evel.
#15
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Originally Posted by ibkevin
The double nutted 17mm bolt is too damn easy.
That is another method
1. Go to a hardware store get to 17mm bolts (1"-2" long) & 4 @ 17mm nuts.
2. While there pick up some JB Weld
3 Go back to the shop and Install, 2 nuts on one bolt. Remember you will need 2 bolts one for the fill plug one for the drain plug.
4. Mix JB weld and dip the head of the bolt in the JB weld and place it in the striped drain plug.
5. You could used tape to secure it so that it could dry and remain straight.
6. Wait about 8 hours
7. Using and open end or box end wrench turn the nut closest to the transmission counter clock wise, God be with him, till you hear a magical "tink".
8. Do this for both plugs.
9. Drain the transmission, install new drain plug, and fill with SWEPCO 201, install new fill plug.