924RACR

Looks like I get to re-do the oil pan gasket in my 924S; put it in with Elring Driko RTV sealer (based on 924 2.0L experience, which has a multi-piece gasket that requires sealer), an it smooshed right out the side and self-destructed, dumping plenty of oil.

Is this one suposed to go in dry??

I really hate doing stuff like this twice, let alone 3 times! At least all the bolts, etc, will be easy to pop loose this time...

Scott at Team Harco

I did mine a couple of years ago. Don't recall if I used any RTV. I probably did (I use it on everything else). Make sure you get the torque right. Things like pan gaskets and valve cover gaskets are very sensitive to over-torque.

89magic98

Didn't someone find a substitute to the factory recommended Yamabond (spelling)?

I also thought someone else here made/sold an aluminum bracket to keep the side most prone to slipping out fron doing so.

924RACR

Yes, Paragon sells those brackets, but they're another $100. If I were tracking the car, sure, but it's going to be sold and driven nicely on the street, that's all.

tod84944

When ever I do rod bearings, when I put the pan back on, I tie the gasket to the pan with dental floss. I can still get the bolts in and get all of them started. You can then pull the dental floss out. It would actually work better if I can find something a little more ridgid, but as thin as the floss.

Techno Duck

Tie the gasket with dental floss to the pan like Todd said. I did this with an '85 i was working on (Which was on a lift) and it worked great.

Tie it every 2nd or 3rd hole. I used 'Sealastic' i think.. comes in a green box / tube and is like $70!! It worked great and no leaks. Didnt use the retaining brackets either. I only used the sealant on the corners of the gasket as stated in the factory manual.



Getting the pan this clean took some blasting with a pressure washer and about a can of acetone!

M758

I did it dry, but with some gasket glue just to keep things from shifting around. The pan gasket does not need any sealant to work, but you will probalbly need something to hold in place. One thing you can do is leave it and the pan in the sun for a while to get the gasket to form properly. Most of time the gaskets are pack in an odd shape and that makes it much hard to install.
Follow the torque sequence and I often go around 5-6 times. The first few rounds are finger tight and maybe 1 ft-bls. As you go around you will find the bolts loose at the start after the first 2-3 rounds. Then once the stay "finger tight" then you can begin using the torque levels in the manual. Expect it to take a long time.

potent951turbo

When I did mine on my previous 951 I was told by a Porsche Mechanic to use contact cement. I was a little skeptical at first but after I had already done the gasket once and had it slide out it was worth a try. I used contact cement on the block side and nothing on the other side. I never had a problem with it again.

Techno Duck

Forgot to add, consider putting a 3pc crossmember in while your at it. It will save you having to drop the control arms off and screwing up your wheel alignment. All you would need to do is take the steering rack off then you are free to drop the center part of the crossmember out and the pan.

924RACR

Thanks for all the excellent tips - I knew this was the place to ask!

Jon - yes, cool, but again, for a non-racing car, not an issue. This is an auto with base suspension, no rear bar, and it's never going to be anything but a street cruiser... besides, I've got a camber gauge, if I need to I can readily tweak the camber back within specs.

Thanks guys!

theedge

944 gaskets are supposed to be dry stock.

Order up a set of gasket retainers from MySwiss. Theyre AWSOME products! I used those and UltraGrey RTV when I put my oilpan on. The retainers keep it from smooshing out the sides when you torque it down. I probably could have taken all the bolts out and driven around with just the gasket maker holding the pan on once the RTV was dry. I had to bust out the pry bar to get it off. Do a search for my username and "bomb proof" and it should come up.

StoogeMoe

I installed mine completely dry. Used Naptha after cleaning the surfaces meticulously. Didn't have any problems with it squishing out or anything like that. Of course I had the luxury of doing it on an engine stand. No leaks so far.

____________________________________
1986 944 NA - Guards Red - 91k miles - minty
1983 944 NA - Platinum metallic - 3000 mi beginning a new life
1985.1 944 NA - Guards Red - donor car
1984 911 Carrera Coupe - Guards Red (gone, but not forgotten)
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