Relative autocross times
09-20-2006, 05:44 PM
#16
Drifting
At our autocrosses, the Boxsters are usually around the 107-109 second range with the Boxter S' around the 103-106. In my old 944 n/a I was around the 110s time once dipping into the 109 ocasionally. Our course doesn't change so we start to get a feel for what times are expected from cars. It's also a really open course, so horsepower makes quite a difference.
09-20-2006, 05:55 PM
#17
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Originally Posted by M758
Well the thing that I eluded to, but did not metion outright is that driver skill is big factor. In Az mostly novices drive on street tires. Once you have gotten a couple years experience most guys run R tires. So these other cars I was beating were with drivers with much less skill and experience than me. When I run my 944 spec in autocross it is a top 4-5 overall car running 1-1.5 seconds off the top depending on if the very fastest guy showed up or not. Intersestingly I don't think I could run as fast in autocross in my Turbo S as I could in that old beat 83. The 951 was just never in the power band. When driving it I was mostly in the "dead zone" of hp and then transition to too much hp. While the 83 was low hp overall it was much easir to manage especially if I slid the hell out of the car. I typically did at least 1 or two powerslides per event in 8-12 runs with the tires squeeling all the way around the course. Funny to watch even the massive body roll.
09-20-2006, 06:02 PM
#18
Race Director
Well when it comes to sliding it all depends on where and how much. Too much sliding will make you slow. To little and you are given up a bit of speed. The trick is knowing how much is just right.
Now that you mention a stripped car... first autocross in a NA I did back in 2000 was with my 944 stripped an on victoracers 225/50 R15 otherwise stock. That alone moved me to the top 7 autocross times overall. All the race prep I did later moved the car into maybe the top 4-5. Remember however that the race prep was desinged for the track not autocross so settings were not ideal for autocross.
Now that you mention a stripped car... first autocross in a NA I did back in 2000 was with my 944 stripped an on victoracers 225/50 R15 otherwise stock. That alone moved me to the top 7 autocross times overall. All the race prep I did later moved the car into maybe the top 4-5. Remember however that the race prep was desinged for the track not autocross so settings were not ideal for autocross.
09-20-2006, 06:21 PM
#19
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I'm not sure what I'm at weight wise, I'd like to get it on a scale though. Do you have your car set with much toe out? How about your camber? The winning car at this particular auto X was a WRX that had more negative camber then I've ever seen on a street driven car. It was crazy. Going into next spring I want to find the most $ effective suspension setup for my car that will give me some adjustability between auto X and some drivers ed stuff. I just love my 944 and can't think of a more forgiving, easy to drive, yet competent car out there.
09-20-2006, 06:37 PM
#20
Burning Brakes
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Autocross is funny.
Sometimes I start to think the car needs to be changed to deal with the auto x track better. And that will help make you faster.
But then I see a nasty Honda Civic Hatchback come and get less than 1 second to FTD and I start to think the other way. That it's all driver.
Maybe it's a combination of both?
Sometimes I start to think the car needs to be changed to deal with the auto x track better. And that will help make you faster.
But then I see a nasty Honda Civic Hatchback come and get less than 1 second to FTD and I start to think the other way. That it's all driver.
Maybe it's a combination of both?
09-20-2006, 07:11 PM
#21
Of course its the driver (skill level) that is most important. After you get enough seat time, the type of car matters less and less. Someone quick in a 911 will also be quick in a 944 or 914 or whatever they drive. Car prep is the second part. Have you taken advantage of all the rules for the class you run in?
If you look at most PCA regions with large/competitive programs and look at the overall times, I think you will find a nice mix of old and new cars running similar times. That may be what you need to look at if there are few to no 944's running your events. If you get to the top 10 overall, then you know you are doing well!
If you look at most PCA regions with large/competitive programs and look at the overall times, I think you will find a nice mix of old and new cars running similar times. That may be what you need to look at if there are few to no 944's running your events. If you get to the top 10 overall, then you know you are doing well!
09-20-2006, 08:36 PM
#22
Race Director
Originally Posted by upcruiser
I'm not sure what I'm at weight wise, I'd like to get it on a scale though. Do you have your car set with much toe out? How about your camber? The winning car at this particular auto X was a WRX that had more negative camber then I've ever seen on a street driven car. It was crazy. Going into next spring I want to find the most $ effective suspension setup for my car that will give me some adjustability between auto X and some drivers ed stuff. I just love my 944 and can't think of a more forgiving, easy to drive, yet competent car out there.
09-20-2006, 10:30 PM
#23
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slow is smooth, smooth is fast.
i lent my red S2 to a fast driver. he showed up at the middle of the event, did not get to walk the course etc. the car had konis but was otherwise bone stock. the rear tires were old Z rated tires from a BMW and the fronts were old H rated tires from an audi.
He was the fastest car on street tires that day.
again, the car is next to meaningless at the early stages. it is all the driver. focus on short shifting to keep the suspension level, looking way ahead, and executing each move as smooth as possible. having depth perception helps a lot too i am told.
i lent my red S2 to a fast driver. he showed up at the middle of the event, did not get to walk the course etc. the car had konis but was otherwise bone stock. the rear tires were old Z rated tires from a BMW and the fronts were old H rated tires from an audi.
He was the fastest car on street tires that day.
again, the car is next to meaningless at the early stages. it is all the driver. focus on short shifting to keep the suspension level, looking way ahead, and executing each move as smooth as possible. having depth perception helps a lot too i am told.
