Best value suspension set up?
#1
Best value suspension set up?
I think this car has the M474 suspension.
Would like some sugestions on where to go from there?
Looking at maybe 300-350 lbs front spring. ive seen the coild over conversion, but is it worth doing on these shocks? can they be converted to the externally adjustble for cheap?
if i go with those rates on the front, what on the rear?
and as for the sway bars, any better value than the 30mmF/19mmR??
Would like some sugestions on where to go from there?
Looking at maybe 300-350 lbs front spring. ive seen the coild over conversion, but is it worth doing on these shocks? can they be converted to the externally adjustble for cheap?
if i go with those rates on the front, what on the rear?
and as for the sway bars, any better value than the 30mmF/19mmR??
#2
Suspension ?
Wwhat are you using the car for ? I use mine as a daily driver and have had it on the track as well. I have a complete Ground Control package with eltmeister Stage II sway bars front and rear. Lowered the rear about 1" with the eccentrics, kept it on torsion bars, 250lb springs in the front. Had a good 4 wheel alignment with a little camber left in. Driveds very nicely on the street, and really held it's own on the track. I'm very pleased with this setup.
#4
Can't get much better than the factoy Escort Bilsteins. We benefit here from Porsche's racing.
This package was developed by Porsche and Bilstein specifically for the 951.
It is CHEAP for what it is.
And if you use it on a full-weight 951, it is very streetable.
Same thing with the Firehawk setup - little softer.
I have both, not talking out my *** here.
This package was developed by Porsche and Bilstein specifically for the 951.
It is CHEAP for what it is.
And if you use it on a full-weight 951, it is very streetable.
Same thing with the Firehawk setup - little softer.
I have both, not talking out my *** here.
#6
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From: Virtually Everywhere...
What year 951?
Least expensive and good for twistys:
front - Koni 8641-1414S strut insert conversion with Weltmeister sport lowering springs (200 or 250) and used/new sway bar upgrade to 26.8mm
rear - Koni 8040-1035S shock with possible upgrade to 25.5mm torsion bars (951S/968 OE bars - highly recommended if going to 250 in front) and used/new sway bar upgrade to 18mm
A little bit more, but way more fun factor:
front - Koni 8641-1414S strut insert conversion with Adjustable Ride Height Kit and 30mm factory sway bar
rear - Koni 8040-1035S shock with solid torsion bar upgrade and 19mm adjustable factory sway bar
Front/Rear spring rate progression subjectively goes like this:
300 front, 28mm rear; 350 front, 29mm rear; 400 front, 30mm
Torsion bars may have to be indexed regardless of what you do if lowering. With the first setup, many get away with simply lowering the rear with the eccentric to match the 1"+ drop in the front. Jumping to coil-overs in the rear increases the cost and complexity of the setup and would most likely not be worth it for a sport-driven street car. They do look cool, though.
All Konis are adjustable - in the above cases, front is externally single-adjustable and rear is single-adjustable but must be removed from car to adjust. Bilsteins available for the 944 are not adjustable. Other higher-end Konis are externally double-adjustable (1007S front and the Cup, 3012 and 28-series rear coil-overs)
If those options aren't pricey enough for you, there are more setups...
Least expensive and good for twistys:
front - Koni 8641-1414S strut insert conversion with Weltmeister sport lowering springs (200 or 250) and used/new sway bar upgrade to 26.8mm
rear - Koni 8040-1035S shock with possible upgrade to 25.5mm torsion bars (951S/968 OE bars - highly recommended if going to 250 in front) and used/new sway bar upgrade to 18mm
A little bit more, but way more fun factor:
front - Koni 8641-1414S strut insert conversion with Adjustable Ride Height Kit and 30mm factory sway bar
rear - Koni 8040-1035S shock with solid torsion bar upgrade and 19mm adjustable factory sway bar
Front/Rear spring rate progression subjectively goes like this:
300 front, 28mm rear; 350 front, 29mm rear; 400 front, 30mm
Torsion bars may have to be indexed regardless of what you do if lowering. With the first setup, many get away with simply lowering the rear with the eccentric to match the 1"+ drop in the front. Jumping to coil-overs in the rear increases the cost and complexity of the setup and would most likely not be worth it for a sport-driven street car. They do look cool, though.
All Konis are adjustable - in the above cases, front is externally single-adjustable and rear is single-adjustable but must be removed from car to adjust. Bilsteins available for the 944 are not adjustable. Other higher-end Konis are externally double-adjustable (1007S front and the Cup, 3012 and 28-series rear coil-overs)
If those options aren't pricey enough for you, there are more setups...
#7
well im looking for some thing relatively low cost until i go all out.
I would do the coilover conversion I know i have yellow konis on my other 951 Both 86's and I might pull those off, but I think i might try and make my own rear coilver conversion, if i did, what springs would i need?
I would do the coilover conversion I know i have yellow konis on my other 951 Both 86's and I might pull those off, but I think i might try and make my own rear coilver conversion, if i did, what springs would i need?
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#8
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From: Virtually Everywhere...
To use the slip-on adjustable ride height kit (coil-over kit) up front you have to convert old Boge/Sachs or Koni sealed units to the newer 8641-1414S. If not, the threaded sleeve will not fit over the crimp cap.
Rear rate and free length would depend heavily on how you go about converting and whether it is height adjustable or fixed height. But, given a front rate of 300, the rear coil in addition to the t-bars would want to be about 200#. If you remove t-bars, then bump the spring up to about 500#. However, there is some hidden danger here - do not rely on the stock lower bolt if removing t-bars. Also, even if upgrading the lower bolt (e.g. Racer's Edge MC7000), do not use any rubber at the connection points - use custom delrin or metal bushings.
Rear rate and free length would depend heavily on how you go about converting and whether it is height adjustable or fixed height. But, given a front rate of 300, the rear coil in addition to the t-bars would want to be about 200#. If you remove t-bars, then bump the spring up to about 500#. However, there is some hidden danger here - do not rely on the stock lower bolt if removing t-bars. Also, even if upgrading the lower bolt (e.g. Racer's Edge MC7000), do not use any rubber at the connection points - use custom delrin or metal bushings.