FRporscheman

For the 33 lbft setting on the roller bolts, 35 is OK. Try to get it a tad under 35 if you can, though.

If you can get between 5 and 10, keeping it closer to 5 than 10, then you should be fine with your plain beam wrench. But nothing will be more accurate than the expensive wrench...

H2

TWO torque wrenches are essential...I feel. One for larger bolts 40-150lbs and one for smaller...0-40 lbs or there abouts. Start stripping holes or have T-belts come off and you'll agree with me. In an aluminum block, it's hard to do this by feel.

Harvey

Yummybud924

I think I'll spend the money and get that inch pound wrench then I'll have my 0-75 beam wrench for the rest of the rollers etc. and then I'll need another 250 lb wrench for the crank but I'll probably return that after I torque my crank.

Techno Duck

I have a Craftsman clicker for 20-150 ft-lbs i use on the bigger stuff including torquing the lug nuts. Another clicker for something like 10-75 inch pounds for the small stuff. Ive also got a beam type but only used it for the water pump.

What i do for the crank bolt is goto 150ft-lbs on the torque wrench then follow it up with a little nudge from the breaker bar.

944bucky

Click style torque wrenches are good for intermediate torque, but final torque is best done with a bar type wrench. Often the click-style end up out of calibration due to being dropped or improper storage. They need to be stored in a free state, i.e. zero ft-lbs.
When you torque bolts, in particular when dealing with small torques, you should chase your threads, and use anti-seize to get an accurate reading. If you have a gual on the threads, there is no way you will end up with the proper mating pressure.

Yummybud924

okay phoned back lordco and for one of the inch pound 1/4 inch wrenches I have to wait for a month to get it. then the other one is a 3/8 inch drive 30-200 inch pound wrench and costs $165.

not sure what I will do now. I might just do what FRporscheman said, go just past the 5 pound mark on my beam wrench (to the 7.5 pound line). Now that I look at the 0-75 ft lb beam wrench it has not marked the 5 / 10 ft lb lines and has marked the 15 ft lb line then 25 and so on but it still has the line for 2.5 lb then 5 ft lb and so on. For the rest of the bolts/ nuts it should also be okay so I'll just get the 250 pound clicker for the crank which doesn't cost as much 90 bucks at Canadian tire.

inch pound wrenches seem very hard to find, Napa told me they have a inch pound torque scrw driver for $599.

hopefully my new pump won't leak and I won't break any bolts / strip threads.

Yummybud924

what do you mean by chase the threads? I assume you mean run an m6 tap through them. I'm worried about starting the m6 tap on an angle or mess it up somehow and ruin the threads instead of cleaning them up.

944bucky

Just take time and don't force anything. Use a tap and die set to clean the threads on the bolt and the block. When you do this you should back the tap off when feel resistance and then move ahead again. Repeat this until you reach then end of the threads. The bottom line is to not force anything, your just cleaning the parts. I just did this last night on a valve cover bolt, the funny looking ones that have a mating surface above the threads but the bolt continues 2 or 3 inches above that. When I intalled it, the bolt turned with almost no resistance and when it hit the matting surface stopped dead. It was a very clean satisfiying feeling. This is when one gets a proper torque reading.

Yummybud924

sounds good, I have an M6 tap I bought to make new threads when I broke a wp bolt. I won't need a die, I'm using new bolts/ nuts for the water pump.

I'll just go past 5 ft lbs on my beam wrench and hope it is fine.

also anyone know if I should use permatex ultra grey gasket maker to dress the paper gasket? I like doing this but the instructions on my new Laso pump say not to use any liquid sealant on the paper gasket.