Removing axles and repacking CV Joint proceedure?
#1
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Removing axles and repacking CV Joint proceedure?
Anyone have any tips, write-ups on removing the rear axles, cleaning up and repacking the CV joints?
I'm finally to the point in my looooooong clutch job where I'm ready to put the transmission back in. While I was under there last night I thought that it would probably be wise to go through the CVs and get them all shinny and greasy while I have easy access to them.
They are still attached at the outter CV and figured this evening I'll remove them from the car and start cleaning. The boots are in good shape (soft and pliable). Wonder if I should just replace for the heck of it while they're out?
I'm finally to the point in my looooooong clutch job where I'm ready to put the transmission back in. While I was under there last night I thought that it would probably be wise to go through the CVs and get them all shinny and greasy while I have easy access to them.
They are still attached at the outter CV and figured this evening I'll remove them from the car and start cleaning. The boots are in good shape (soft and pliable). Wonder if I should just replace for the heck of it while they're out?
#2
I wouldn't replace them unless they are really worn. The one thing that helped me was to soak/wash the CVs in a small bucket of gasoline, it gets all the old grease off really easily. Then you can dry it off and inspect them. Other then that I would just go off of whats on Clarks Garage.
#5
then you don't know how to look part numbers up...the boodt is different..the kit is different, but the joint is type 1..and here another freebie...86 turbos use the same axles as the earlier n/a. The stub axkes on ealy cars are the same as a type 1
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Got the axles out of the car tonight. Looks like at one time someone tried to remove them since the head off one bolt was missing. Once the rest were removed the remaining part came out easy. Also would figure the very last bolt on the second axle would be stripped out. One bolt away from having both axles out can make one swear fairly loud. However a pair of vice-grips cracked it free and it came out from there.
Paragon has boot kits for $12 each, so I figure it'd be dumb not to do that while I'm there. Gonna get them all degreased and see what I'm looking at. FWIW I never had any problems with the axles, they felt tight and no play.
Here's to hoping I can have this all back together in the next few weeks in time for track days!
Paragon has boot kits for $12 each, so I figure it'd be dumb not to do that while I'm there. Gonna get them all degreased and see what I'm looking at. FWIW I never had any problems with the axles, they felt tight and no play.
Here's to hoping I can have this all back together in the next few weeks in time for track days!
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#8
i wasn't trying to be sarcastic...just explore the thing a bit..most of all don't think Porsche used 1 off parts...they never did onthe basic component level, most common parts on a porsche are easily available parts from other brands...caps and rotors (volvo) t stats(vw), wheel bearings/stub axles (VW) ..the list is never ending, heck most of the electrical connecters are either Vw or benz.
The early offset suspensions lean very heavily on Type 1 vw and a1 (rabbit) chassis vw
The early offset suspensions lean very heavily on Type 1 vw and a1 (rabbit) chassis vw
#9
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Hey Nick...do you ever part out older E30 BMW's? I'm trying to find a source for new CV's on the front axles of a 91 325iX. I would think Audi or some VW fwd part would swap but I'm having no luck at all.
Thanks
Thanks
#10
Originally Posted by nickg
just buy new ones...type 1 vw...35 each for god sake.
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#11
I used to sell them.....wholesale to parts stores. they were like $12-17 for the Brazilian or mexican ones. Now before you think that the German ones are better, know that Lobro, the brand I sold, are made all over the world. The manufacturer makes their number and it may fit sevral brands of cars, we sold them under manufacturer numbers, but I happen to know the VW oe number (and I believe that is also the Porsche number on the early turbo and early cars). when you see the manufacurers part numbers, you realize how many interchangable parts are on these
#13
How hard is it to remove the CV from the axle? A pal said to get friendly with a brass hammer and start swinging.
I'm going to replace both my driver's side CVs this weekend. Wondering how much trouble I'll have.
I'm going to replace both my driver's side CVs this weekend. Wondering how much trouble I'll have.
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I said the wrong thing thinking it was simpler, you must move the entire axle from left to right. When I did mine I dissasembled the axles and swapped direction when I reassembled. The instructions in the Haynes manual said to mark everything with paint before you dissasemble. Good plan if you take the CV joints apart.
Lou
Lou