Yummybud924

I already made a thread about breaking on of the lower water pump bolts in the block. so I drilled it out , kept on going up in drill sizes.

now there is still some tiny bits stuck to the side fo the hole but I can't get them out and i have gone up to the highest drill bit size before the hoel would be too big...... the bolt still doesn't go in most likely because of that meta crap stuck to the side not because the hole isn't big enough.


I have a new idea not sure if I should do it. I took the one longest bolt for the water pump and I cut the head off so it's like a stud now, so there is a threaded end and a smooth end.

I'm thinking of cleaning the drilled hole putting JB weld or some other expoxy in the hole then taking this stud (bolt with head cut off) and smacking it with a small hammer so it goes into the hole wich is a little too small for it, it would be stuck in the hole with the JB weld to bond so it would be pretty permanent if it works.

what I'm worried about is cracking the block (possible?) by smacking the stud in to the water pump hole or causing some kind of crack from the stress. Also I drilled pretty deep into the hole hopefully I did not get close or into a water jacket.

other thing, around the hole that I had to drill piece fo the old bolt are stuck to the edges of the hole and I think it might be sticking out a tiny bit from the hole so I'm hoping it won't effect the seal with the new pump. I'm going to use plenty of silicone gasket maker on the pump's paper gasket.

Yummybud924

if I do this i'm not sure if I should drill a bigger hole so I don't have to smack the stud in with a hammer and i'm not sure if I should use JB weld or something else like Steely eposxy putty which I've used to fix the holes in the battery tray and it worked well.

I remember using JB weld once and it didn't work maybe the surface was dirty or something.

picklejuice52

what would happen if you tapped the now drilled out hole (after blowing out the **** with a can of compressed air) and instead of studding it, turning it into a bolt hole, so you can take a bolt and thread it into it. Take it to a machine shop and see what they reccomend doing, im sure they would have NO PROBLEMS putting in a stud for you, a little bit of money for them to do that will save a ****load of money!

SidViscous

No help now, you've already gone too far.

NExt time pick up a helicoil kit for the size bolt you have and install that (Should come with the proper sized drill bit).

That solves the problem without the mess.

But JB weld should work fine. NO reason to go smaking stuffe enough to crack blocks. Little JB Weld. ram it in the hole. Cover the bolt and then insert into hole. Tap if necesarry.

mark944turbo

If you have a m6x1.0 tap, you should drill with the recommended drill size for it (probably close to what you have used already) and run the tap in. This will allow you to use a stud or a bolt, your choice. Try this before the jb weld, which I am almost certain will not work in the way you are describing. The stud will be under a lot of tension when you torque the nut onto it, and JB weld is a hack!

Even drilling an oversized hole in the block and using a bigger bolt would be bigger, just enlarge the hole in the waterpump a little bit to fit, if it looks possible. Or use a helicoil. Anything but JB weld

Yabo

For what it's worth, two of my waterpump studs are stripped out and spin with about 3ftlbs of pressure, and my waterpump doesn't leak... yet.

Yummybud924

ok i'll try the tap first. Anyone mind explaining to me how you use a tap as I've obviously never done this before. I think the biggest bit I used to drill in was 13/64" so I'm not sur if I can use the m6 x 1.0 tap. for a few mm into the hole I used one size bigger than 13/64 in an attempt to get the metal stuck on the sides out but it didn't get all of it out.

I've seen taps at canadian tire but they come with no directions on how to use them. So would a m6 x 1.0 be a common tap I can find? I'll go look tomorrow. Problem is no on in Canadian tire knows anything about tools so they're no help.

SidViscous

http://www.nmri.go.jp/eng/khirata/me...t/index_e.html

http://www.jjjtrain.com/vms/cutting_tools_hand_tap.html

mark944turbo

the m6x1.0 should be available at any hardware store, it is very common on imported cars and even american cars these days.

Other than what you could find on google about using a tap, I think the most important factors in a good tapping job in order are:

Proper drilled hole size
Getting it started squarely (sight it from all directions you can as you start)
Lubrication (Alumitap in your case, also available from hardware store, or another aluminum cutting fluid)
Not applying too much force and backing up occasionally to clean out the chips. If the tap starts to bend at all, its going to break if you go any more. They are very hard and therefore brittle.

As long as the hole you are starting with is round and the right size, you really cant go wrong, even doing it the first time, I think you will have good results.

Yummybud924

Thanks!

I'll go to canadian tire after work tomorrow and try and find the m6 x1.0 (hopefully they carry it).

I fear that I may have screwed up the hole too much, I used a 13/64 bit to drill into the hole all the way (hopefully not too far). and then I used one bit size larger to drill only 3-4 mm into the hole to get some of chunks stuck to the sides out.

I think first of all you're suppose ot use a metric drill bit size I guess it will say the size to use on the tap.

If I have drilled the hole too big for the M6 bolt what should I go up to and will I find a bolt to use for it?



It's actually the same bolt in this pic that broke on mine and I'm worried about drilling a hole that is too big as it's pretty close to the edge already. Also I drilled about 3 cm into the hole.... I'm not sure if I may have gotten close to a water jacket inside the block.

FRporscheman

What the hell were the Porsche engineers thinking when they did these waterpump bolts/studs?

I guess there's just nothing you can do to avoid it - steel fasteners in aluminum holes... it's asking for trouble years down the line. Good luck man.

Geo

Superior German engineering.

First choice: Helicoil

Second choice: Thread repair goo - I think it's made by Permatex. I have some downstairs. I'll find it and post the details.

Tom M'Guinn

Ok, forget the JB Weld -- I love that stuff, but not for holding studs in the block.

First, try getting an M6 x 1.0 tap. A tap is like a screw with sharp edges -- its purpose is to screw into mucked-up holes like yours and clean out the gunk that doesn't belong. You'll need a little tap driver too, to turn the tap. They sell kits at Sears, or any hardware store. Practice using the tap on some old part with that size hole to get the hang of it. Use WD-40 on the tap, so it spins easier, and back it up a half turn or so every now and then so the crude doesn't bind in the threads.

If that does not work, go get an M6 x 1.0 Helicoil kit. Napa auto supply sells a nice kit, although they are not cheap at $30. With a helicoil kit, you use a specified drill bit size (I believe M6 used 1/4 inch, but use whatever the kit specifies) and over-size the hole. You then use a special tap that comes with the kit to cut new threads in the hole. These threads are designed to hold a little coil insert that screws into the hole using the special tool from the kit. The insert created nice clean M6 threads in the hole. Hope that helps.

p.s., my engine is full of helicoils -- never had one fail in low-torque applications like this.

Peckster

JB Weld and permanent should never be used together in the same sentence.

leonc944

Yeah, let me know when you want to sell your car! I sure want to buy it now!