Flywheel lock seems to throw me a bit off TDC?
#1
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I set my engine to what looks to be TDC, but when I go to install the flywheel lock, it won't slide in and align with the botl holes without moving a tooth or so back or a tooth or so forward. Right now I have the flywheel lock installed, and the bottom flywheel marks are not centered. At the top looking for the OT stamp and mark in the flywheel, I can read OT, but the mark is under the tab. Is this close enough, or is it possible the bolt holes in the tool are off a bit?
I emailed Bruce (nice guy) to see what he thinks, but I am mid-tear down so I figured I would ask here.
Also, if I am doing belts/front seals/water pump, should I go ahead and drain the oil and coolant prior to tearing everything off?
I emailed Bruce (nice guy) to see what he thinks, but I am mid-tear down so I figured I would ask here.
Also, if I am doing belts/front seals/water pump, should I go ahead and drain the oil and coolant prior to tearing everything off?
#2
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should not matter if it is off, it is mainly to provide counter torque for the crank bolt, just be sure to get it all top dead center before putting new belts on and starting it.
and yes, i would drain oil and coolant before taking out waterpump and all the seals
and yes, i would drain oil and coolant before taking out waterpump and all the seals
#3
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Coolants gonna come flying out the waterpump area if you don't drain it first, and migh tas well drain teh oil since it's going to come out the crank seal probably.
Doesn't matter if your flywheel is only off a few degrees with the lock, just set it right before you put the belt on.
Doesn't matter if your flywheel is only off a few degrees with the lock, just set it right before you put the belt on.
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So I should have it on now to pull everything off (i.e. pulleys, rollers and such), then when I have all the new rollers on and am ready to put the new belts on, take the lock off, get back to TDC and then put the belt on?
#5
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Yep, sounds like a good plan. Definately leave it on from the time you are about to take the belts off, until just before y ou put the belts back on. Don't rotate the cam at all while the flywheel is locked, and if you feel any resistance doing anything you are doing, don't fight it!
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I'm thinking if you move the crank to get to TDC with the belts off you're going to have a whole mess of problems to fix (if I interpreted your post correctly).
Your concern should be with the top mark. It's not the OT that lines up. Just above the OT is a - mark that lines you up at TDC with the mark on the bellhousing. You can then check the rollers with the back of the timing cover and the bottom slot in the bellhousing if you want verification. It's been a few weeks since I was in there but that's my recollection.
Your concern should be with the top mark. It's not the OT that lines up. Just above the OT is a - mark that lines you up at TDC with the mark on the bellhousing. You can then check the rollers with the back of the timing cover and the bottom slot in the bellhousing if you want verification. It's been a few weeks since I was in there but that's my recollection.
#9
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I have never had this problem and I have used Bruce's flywheel lock on many cars. Make sure you are lining the line on the flywheel up and not using any of the other marks (cam, balance shafts, etc). They can be off, but the crank should be at TDC exactly if the flywheel lock was made correctly.
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If you look at the bottom hole the marks are not cented in the hole on the flywheel when the lock is on. From the top, the OT "line" is either past the tab or under the tab with the lock on.
So, am I just using the lock so I can get the crank pulleys off? If so, once I have the crank bolt and pulleys off, can I pull the lock, get the system back to TDC, then pull the belts and everything else?
So, am I just using the lock so I can get the crank pulleys off? If so, once I have the crank bolt and pulleys off, can I pull the lock, get the system back to TDC, then pull the belts and everything else?