Water Pump Stud
#1
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Went to replace the water pump on the 944 race car this weekend and the PO had broken a stud on the last replacement. Any ideas? We tried heating the surrounding area and turning the nub with Visegrips, no luck. Now I have a very short nub. Thanks in advance for ideas.
#2
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I've made that mistake by over-torquing.... Have you tried using a 'screw extractor' or a 'Drill-Out'? I've found that using a left-handed drill bit and penatrants like a PB Blaster helps with the extraction.
Good luck.
Good luck.
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Ok, just an idea but ...
[careful] grind 2 small flats on the nub and get a good grip, some heat is your friend (but not too much)
or
mount the old water pump, find a drill bit bearing (essentially a spacer) to fit the hole with the broken stud and the bit of your choosing, drill it.
I drilled my freehand and got lucky. Bruce
[careful] grind 2 small flats on the nub and get a good grip, some heat is your friend (but not too much)
or
mount the old water pump, find a drill bit bearing (essentially a spacer) to fit the hole with the broken stud and the bit of your choosing, drill it.
I drilled my freehand and got lucky. Bruce
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Bruce, we thought about using the old pump as a guide, but wondered about losing the core charge. Any ideas on how to source a bit bearing of the correct size? Thanks.
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I used a set of bolt extractors on a broken block stud... worked great. Spray PB on there and be patient while it works - several times for upwards of an hour.
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I, too, have battled the dreaded WP stud. I echo previous advice. Be PATIENT! Lots of PB blaster over several hours. Then apply some heat to the surrouding area. One of the mini torches used for Creme Brulee works great. (tasty, too!) Then get a nice set of vice grips on the flattest spot you can find, and clamp, turn, unclamp. clamp, turn, unclamp. Repeat until she loosens up. Don't Give up!
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"Bruce, we thought about using the old pump as a guide, but wondered about losing the core charge. Any ideas on how to source a bit bearing of the correct size? Thanks."
McMaster Carr... find them on the net...bruce
McMaster Carr... find them on the net...bruce
#10
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Originally Posted by yieldsign2
Man, how can you overtorque those things anyway? the one or two i put even stock torque on just stripped out..
I used anti-sieze on all bolts / studs around the water areas. Hopefullly this will prevent problems for any future disassembly.
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Originally Posted by 968gene
Went to replace the water pump on the 944 race car this weekend and the PO had broken a stud on the last replacement. Any ideas? We tried heating the surrounding area and turning the nub with Visegrips, no luck. Now I have a very short nub. Thanks in advance for ideas.
Acetelyne on the other hand............WILL, butt, ya gotta be a little careful about it also.
Sometimes a couple of tries using heat may result in success, with enough time to let all cool off between times. You are heating the surrounding area of the bolt, and NOT the bolt itself.........right?
You still have enough bolt to grasp? Drill and extractor should be the VERY LAST, LAST resort. To many people have WAY TO MANY PROBLEMS GOING THIS ROUTE. Don't go there, unless you've have had LOTS of experience doing so. Just my .002.
Clean threads (tap and chase nut, wire brush on grinder at LEAST), then anti-seize, and the "proper torque values"..........ARE your best friend on re-assembly.
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#12
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I broke a wp stud and failed at all attempts to get it out. I took it to a shop with an EDM set up and figured that would be fool-proof, but the EMD machine actually screwed up the block enough to require welding to repair. If I had to do it again (after vice grips and the like fail), I'd make a jig and just drill for a heli-coil.