Intake manifold banjo bolt sleeve/boss
06-15-2006, 03:47 PM
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Intake manifold banjo bolt sleeve/boss
Question-
How is the insert sleeve/boss that the banjo bolt screws into on the intake manifold attached to the manifold? Is it screwed in or pressed in with a sealant or some type around it? I noted that mine rotates slightly when installing the banjo bolt and figured that it is not the generally desired outcome due to potential vaccum leaks.
Thanks in advance
Nelson
How is the insert sleeve/boss that the banjo bolt screws into on the intake manifold attached to the manifold? Is it screwed in or pressed in with a sealant or some type around it? I noted that mine rotates slightly when installing the banjo bolt and figured that it is not the generally desired outcome due to potential vaccum leaks.
Thanks in advance
Nelson
06-16-2006, 09:48 PM
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Mine did hte exact same thing. I tried to unscrew it and it would not turn more, in either direction. so I scraped as much sealant as I could around the fitting and applied new epoxy. I has not moved in the last few times that I have removed the banjo fittings.
07-13-2008, 06:48 PM
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To resurrect an old thread...
I'm just finishing up my venturi delete and vacuum line replacement (silicone hose) with Laust's vacuum manifold. When I tightened the banjo bolt on the intake manifold (very gently, as the torque spec is 7lbs.), the threaded insert in the manifold turned a bit. It seems a little loose.
Does anyone know how the insert is attached to the IM? Is it threaded? Can I just tighten it, or is it a press fit? Should I use some epoxy to seal it?
I'm just finishing up my venturi delete and vacuum line replacement (silicone hose) with Laust's vacuum manifold. When I tightened the banjo bolt on the intake manifold (very gently, as the torque spec is 7lbs.), the threaded insert in the manifold turned a bit. It seems a little loose.
Does anyone know how the insert is attached to the IM? Is it threaded? Can I just tighten it, or is it a press fit? Should I use some epoxy to seal it?
07-23-2008, 08:39 PM
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Solved.
Just for informational purposes...
The fitting is threaded into the manifold. I removed it while the manifold was installed. It would be easier to do it with the manifold removed. The flats on the fitting can be wrenched with a 13mm open end. Since the manifold was installed, I couldn't get enough clearance with just the wrench. So I also used a small pair of Channel Locks (slip-joint pliers with the jaws at a 90 degree angle to the handles), and I also had to use an old screwdriver and small hammer to tap the fitting around enough to be able to grab it with the wrench and pliers. The process was to use each tool as needed to rotate the fitting just enough to be able to use the next tool (always with the preference being the open end wrench). It finally came out (there was old sealant/threadlock holding it in place, but not enough left to keep it from moving and leaking). It would be much easier with the manifold removed, as there would be clearance for the wrench from both sides of the manifold. Anyway, there was some light damage from the jaws of the Channel Locks on the edges of the fitting, so I sanded it flat and smooth using progressively finer grits. Then, after cleaning out the crusty old sealant, I used some JB Weld when I reinstalled it using an 8mm 1.0 pitch bolt and nut (to lock against the flange of the fitting). It just screwed back in.
The fitting is threaded into the manifold. I removed it while the manifold was installed. It would be easier to do it with the manifold removed. The flats on the fitting can be wrenched with a 13mm open end. Since the manifold was installed, I couldn't get enough clearance with just the wrench. So I also used a small pair of Channel Locks (slip-joint pliers with the jaws at a 90 degree angle to the handles), and I also had to use an old screwdriver and small hammer to tap the fitting around enough to be able to grab it with the wrench and pliers. The process was to use each tool as needed to rotate the fitting just enough to be able to use the next tool (always with the preference being the open end wrench). It finally came out (there was old sealant/threadlock holding it in place, but not enough left to keep it from moving and leaking). It would be much easier with the manifold removed, as there would be clearance for the wrench from both sides of the manifold. Anyway, there was some light damage from the jaws of the Channel Locks on the edges of the fitting, so I sanded it flat and smooth using progressively finer grits. Then, after cleaning out the crusty old sealant, I used some JB Weld when I reinstalled it using an 8mm 1.0 pitch bolt and nut (to lock against the flange of the fitting). It just screwed back in.
