Rock

Herro everybody. I worked my *** off on the car until 1am last night because I didnt have to wake up at 5AM the next morning to go to work (do all home depots open at 6am?)

I got the new valve put in the head and then put the whole car together again. I tripled and double checked everything.

Then I went to start it up and it dizzied after 30 seconds. It ran for a couple of seconds and then cut out. It feels like a major *** vaccum leak. Its acting exactly how my black car did when it had the vaccum line from the Air/Oil seperator crack.

It sounds terrible, and then dies. Giving it throttle changes nothing. This is probally because that very same line is all screwed up on my car right now. When I did the venturi delete I got some hose from autozone and rigged it up to work. It worked just fine.

My first question is; It has the stock line coming off of the Jboot for the air/oil seperator. If I wanted to do a catch can setup, does this line have to be plugged? Right now the car has that line, and then the hose from autozone going to the air/oil seperator just sitting there apart. I tried plugging the line to the intake though, the car still died (granted it was a ****ty job of a plug)

My second question is about the timing. If the timing is off a little bit, will it cause this? What would happen if the timing were off just slightly? This is my first time I ever really have done all of this. Nobody to help a Rock this time . I put the crank at TDC then I put the camshaft at TDC. The problem I had was the flywheels TDC mark is a big fatass line. There is a little bit of room you have to move it amoungst that mark and still have it appear to be TDC. I rotated the engine a bunch of times though after I got the timing belt on, then I looked at the cam and crank TDC marks to verifiy they were at tdc.

Third question. Would an exhaust leak cause this? The headers have 2 bolts each (4 bolts out of 6 total) holding them to the exhaust pipe. Its missing 2 bolts total. It was late and I had no ride to go get bolts.

Lemme know what you guys think! Thanks!

WesM951

Rock,
I can't help you too much, but i doubt an exhaust leak would cause a car to run then die. Definatly sounds like a vac leak to me. Especially if throttle has no effect on it what-so-ever.

xsboost90

the TDC mark is actually very small and is a notch in the case, the line under the TDC mark should line up w/ it. If it doesnt you'll prob. bend a valve. PUt all of the hoses back where they should be dont RIG things together and wonder why it doesnt work. any open hoses coming off of the intake will cause a huge vac. leak after the afm that will kill it.

Rock

****ty. Im like 99 percent sure its that hose too. I had the same problem with my blacky.

What if one wants to run a catch can though? What happens to that hose?

I was saying that the Notch in the case is about 2-3 times as wide as the TDC mark on the flywheel.

xsboost90

you may be looking at the wrong thing. It should be a small notch or pointer.

Sam I am

Did you plug the AFM/MAF back in? I had a similar issue which involved me being an idiot and simply forgeting to plug the AFM in.

Legoland951

I second what amish said. Sounds identical to what I have seen several times before...

PCinDC

With a catch can, the line from the AOS is routed to the catch can, which vents to atmosphere. This doesn't impact the intake tract as the process of installing a catch can removes the AOS from the intake tract. Yes, you would plug the J-boot's port for the stock AOS recirculation.

A vacuum leak will definitely cause problems like you are seeing.

The indexing notch at the top of the flywheel should come to a point, unless its broken. The point should line up with the line on the flywheel just after the OT mark. It should be pretty precise.

Rock

What if the timing is off? Will the car still run as described? Now the car doesnt even start. It sounds like it wants to kick on and start during cranking but it doesnt.

Would the timing being off cause this?

Ive double checked everything, and nothing seems to be working. Maybe I can try and swap the AFM out to see if that starts it. Perhaps the AFM somehow went bad.`

Rock

The thing still cranks like it wants to fire, It just doesnt start up. The plugs were pretty foul, I tried cleaning them and putting them back in but no go.

Is it weird that it would start a couple of times and then never start again? Could it be the AFM somehow took a **** once it got off the car (angry sister rampaging around maybe?)

I dunno at this point. Maybe I should just get rid of the car and look back into that 7 series bimmer.

shmucklebuckle

I'll third, fourth, and fifth that one, lol. I do that all the time when I put the airbox back in!

Me: "Hey, how come my car is running like ****?!"
Me: "Oh. woopsies! Maybe this should be plugged in? "

Legoland951

Test the firing order of your wires on the cap. That could also be a problem.

shmucklebuckle

Or the rotor.. I've had the rotor set screw fall out on me, letting the rotor spin out of timing and cause the same stuff.

Rock

1-3-4-2 starting from the bottom right? Correct?

Rock

Well I ran a compression check for shats and giggles and it definity made me shat but not giggle.

Every single cylinder has 0 psi on it. The gauge moves when the compression test is being done, but barely. If it had numbers down there, it would probally be at like 2 psi.

Is it possible that every valve is bent? the timing belt is still on nice and strong, and i rotated the engine by hand a whole bunch of times when I did the belt.

Not only that, but it started. How the hell can an engine start on like 0 psi? Is it possible the timing is off just by a little bit? Or does this sound like im royally ****ed.

It also turns over freely, but I guess that doesnt say much.