KuHL 951

I did front wheel bearing on the 83 a couple of weeks ago. Most manuals have you adjust the bearing load by spinning the thrust washer. The 83 spindle and thrust washer is keyed so obviously that doesn't work. I set them by tightening them until I could feel the spinning tire start to drag and backed off about 1/2 turn on the clamp. Is there a better procedure for this?

Thanks

armandodiaz

That's Chevy's way of adjusting. What you have to do is tighten the adjuster while moving the washer back and forth (it's oversized for this reason) with a flat-head and also spin the rotor at the same time. Once you feel a good amount of drag on the washer, tighten the locking bolt on the adjuster.

hint: some old washers have scratches/gouges this prevents true measurement. Rub the washer on a piece of sandpaper, on a flat surface, till both sides are smooth.

This procedure will actually give the bearing a tighter fit without damage. Chevy's way your never to sure how tight it really is. Another thing, with American cars they expect some play when checking tightness, with the wheel on. Porsches should have NO play(at least none that you can feel). Good luck

bart1

The FSM says you should be able to still move that washer with a screwdriver in your hand. Do not pry on the hub - hold the handle and use your fingers to pushthe screwdriver against the washer. There is enough play to make it move. It is NOT very tight.

HTH
Bart

FRporscheman

Steve, I replaced both front wheel bearings on my early 85 last year, and adjusted them. The washer was able to spin around (it wasn't keyed). Strange that 83s are different... Does your washer have the key or the keyway? Maybe you can just grind off the key and make it like the 84-85.

xsboost90

dont need to spin it, just make sure you can move it back and forth alittle w/ the tip of a screwdriver, if it wont move its too tight, if it moves easily its loose.

KuHL 951

Thanks Guys. I know there was very little or no play when I tightened the clamping nut. I'll see how close my 'Chevy' method was when I replace the seal I put in backwards.

The spindle has the keyway and the thrust washer has the key. I don't think it's a good idea to grind off the key, it's there for a reason although I have no idea why. The early 924 models used the same washer as my 83 (E 311 405 661) even though PET says all 83-89 944's are the same. (911 341 663 00) My car is an early build #610 so they must have just wanted to use up left over parts from the 924 bins.

On a related note I posted about 2 months ago about a clunk in the L rear of the car. It didn't sound like a wheel bearing issue at all but everything else on the suspension was tight. There was no grinding or whining and free play was minimal. Last year my son had curbed and bent two wheels badly RF and LR. When I replaced the RF bearings the bearing shell (outer) was deformed in one spot that effectively locked up two rollers although the bearing would still rotate. I then checked the LR and sure enough that outer bearing was also deformed with 3 locked rollers. I figure the slow speed thunk was when that frozen section of bearing hit the top of race and and stalled out. Anyway the clunk is gone now. I've never seen a bearing deform like that from an impact. Anyway I just thought I'd pass that on.