ross255

Early 951's didnt have the switch in the boot lock. At least in the UK anyway, mines a 1987. Instead there is a linkage attached to the boot key. I still have the motor but they are only set to work of the switch in the footwell

Mello

Say you wanted to change the key from the early linkage style to the later motorized style. Seems like it wouldnt be too hard. Anyone know? Any pictures of the later style mechanism?

josephsc

I think the change happened sometime around 1988?

I've installed an early mechanical linkage (from an 85.5 parts car) on my '90 S2 because I had a faulty connection in the harness. It's not too involved, but it was a bit of jigsaw puzzle -- to go from late->early you'll need just the lock assembly. You can use the existing lock cylinder, but it sits rotated 90 degrees.

To go from early->late, you'll have to figure out some wiring from the microswitch to the motor.

Giantman

Just picked up this thread as my microswitch it not working also (foot well switch ok). I put it on the multimeter and only got sporadic results by pressing down hard on the button. Unfortunately these little buggers don't come apart for servicing so a replacement seems the only option. Like VWaddict said it is probably a common part from an electonics shop, but I think the two mounting holes might make it more difficult to find. Please let me know if any of you guys find one?

Mine is made by Burgess of England and the part number is 944.624.030.00 and I found it on Pelican (sort of):

http://tinyurl.com/g7ket

Giantman

Too follow up I was a little bored today so I set about getting this rear hatch key to work. As it turns out I had a microswitch lying around which I picked up years ago to launch model rockets from my R/C chopper. While it was not of the exact same dimensions the alignment holes matched the pins on the key set plate so I thought I would give it a go and IT WORKED!

The only tricky part was working out where to solder the wires (it cost me one 25amp fuse) but I got it right on the second attempt. So anyway the microswitch now activates the unlocking motor every time.

Here is a pic comparing the orginal $27 micro switch with it's $1.50 replacement.

Robby

Ok, I'm reading all of this, but I'm still not 100% sure on anything, except, YES, the 1988's had full electric motors... I want to get rid of mine & remove the motor completely & run a completely manual hatch release, IF that's possible... anyone...??

thanks

Mark944na86

This is an ancient thread, I know, but the information and pic provided by Giantman is useful, and I thought I would add a bit of extra detail.

Actually, the hole spacing in the microswitch is an industry standard form factor, fortunately, and that means it isn't hard to find a suitable replacement switch on ebay, for example. The hole spacing is 9.5mm, if you want to double check the mechanical drawing (if one is available) for the part you are buying.

The switch you need as a replacement is a three terminal single pole double throw (SPDT) type, which means it has one terminal (common) that alternatively connects to the other terminals as the switch is pressed and released. The common terminal may be marked "com", the other terminals may be be marked "nc" and "cn" (or "no"). In Giantman's pic above, the white wire is connected to the common terminal, the red to the terminal that is connected to common when the switch is depressed ("cn" or "no"), and the brown to the terminal that is connected when the switch is released ("nc").

It's also important to get a switch with a sutable current rating. The switch I got was rated at 5A, which should be plenty for this application. There are switches in the same form factor that have much lower current ratings (e.g. 1A), so watch out to avoid those.

The model number of the switch I bought was KW11-3Z, which is equivalent spec to 21ADB2B, so a search on those two part nos. should get you looking in the right place. BTW, these are not expensive parts: I bought a pack of 10 for $1.87 on ebay, shipping included. From China, naturally.

Pic below of the KW11-3Z I bought:

docwyte

I replaced the microswitch to no avail.

Checked for power at the harness and there wasn't any. I'd removed the alarm ECU but hadn't wired past it. That's my next target. After that I'll start tracing the wires back to find a break.

Curse Porsche for swapping from a mechanical linkage to a F'ing electronic way of popping the trunk with the key!

Mark944na86

I suspect the main reason they did it this way was to integrate with the factory alarm system. Opening the trunk without the key sets the alarm off (if the alarm is active), whereas opening using the key doesn't. So the switch does more than power the release motor, it also communicates with the alarm module.

This added complication is the main reason I decided not to bother with a reversion to a manual system on my 1990 S2. However, if you've already removed the factory alarm on your car, it might not be an issue for you -- so why don't you put in a manual key system?

944hal

Where is the cable that allows you to open it manually located?

docwyte

If bypassing the alarm doesn't get it going again I will retrofit to the linkage...

Tiger03447

I agree that something that is as simple as opening a hatch should be a lot easier..Anyone have ideas on how to rig a cable release similar to the hood? One that you could reach and pull from the driver's seat..like under the dash somewhere...?? Just wondering..Tiger 03447

sm

the 968 club sport had the manual release and I believe Tifosiman retrofitted his car with factory parts. He's not on the forums much anymore, however.

Arominus

Yup, its for the integration into the factory alarm and it started in 1989 with the newer alarm system. My 88S had the old style alarm (key in the quarter panel) and was still mechanical. They could have kept the linkage and just used the microswitch trigger for the alarm for the newer alarm, but hey, thats more weight right? haha Its wired through the alarm module and as such when you removed the alarm you killed the path to the hatch motor. Retrofit it with the earlier style if your not putting the alarm back in.

I had to replace this switch recently, i ate the $27 switch because i didn't feel like rewiring it/screwing with the cheaper alternative.

docwyte

I should just be able to wire past the alarm as shown on Clarks Garage and get it working again. Otherwise I'll dig around my garage and find the alarm brain...