dmn23

I ran into a problem with the rear hatch release on my 1990 S2 this weekend. The hatch wouldn't open with the interior button or by using the key. So after a series of contortions that would make a gymnast wince, I finally got the #$@ thing open. The cable that's supposed to allow you to open it manually didn't work because there's a little arm that wasn't attached in its little plastic socket at the lock mechanism. Okay, so I fiddle with it and I finally get the POS back in its proper place. Ta-da! I'm done, right? Not so fast. It opens like it's supposed to when you pull the cable, but using the key still won't open it.

...so the issue is electrical. Short of dropping $150 on another motor, does anyone have a suggestion for getting that little bugger working again? Perhaps something simple that a four year old could tackle (because that's about the level of my mechanical aptitude...)?

Thanks in advance for your help.

josephsc

Does it open when you push the rear hatch release button in the driver's seat well? When you turn the key, the tumber activates a microswitch next to the lock assembly -- that is known to fail frequently and the motor might still be okay.

At any rate, for electrical issues it would be a worthwhile investment to grab a multimeter and see what part of the circuit has failed.

lleroyb

It is a good bet it is not the motor. Like Joe said, see if the footwell switch runs the motor. I ended up making a new lever arm and "adjusting" the limit switch arm that the key actuates. What part of the county are you in?

Lou

dmn23

UPDATE: Based on these replies, I walked out to the parking lot and decided to try the footwell switch -- something I'm reasonably sure I hadn't tried this weekend. After all, if turning the key didn't work then surely the footwell switch wouldn't work. Or at least, that was my logic.

The footwell switch worked. To say I was surprised (albeit pleased) would be a bit of an understatement. Now try to imagine how baffled I was when I closed the hatch again only to discover that using the key also works now. What gives? Did I reset something by using the footwell switch?

Thanks to everyone for your guidance, by the way.

H2

Your car is haunted...as is mine.

Harvey

dmn23

I suspected as much. There's a joke in there somewhere about "possession" being 9/10ths of ownership...

njwilser

I believe the cable that the electrical motor is hooked too can be adjusted. I also believe the linkage rods that release the two hatch pins are adjustable. After many years, the linkage gets tired and may need to be adjusted to work properly. I've fooled w/ mine a few times and have the key working but the cable for the remote is broken and needs to be replaced. IMO, there are way too many moving parts (motors,cables switches etc.) built into the car in this area to provide reliable service.
MW

Bill Lucas

My footwell switch controls the hatch but the key does not, just like yours. The keyed entry is electrical. There is a small micro-switch that needs to fire when you turn the key. Odds are, yours, as is mine, is fried. I think I've located the part and it's $58. I just haven't had a chance to call to confirm that it is in fact the part. It's not an easy part to track down.

On a related note, I took apart the housing for the footwell switch at the back hatch a couple of days ago and degunked and cleaned and recalibrated it and it mow works like a champ.

Good luck with yours.

VWaddict

Anybody got a photo of the microswitches in question?

-Most microswitches are built to common specs, and in the past year I've replaced microswitches in my dishwasher (door switches in the handle) and garage door opener (end limit sensors) and -best of all- I got them at a local NASA/Military surplus place for about $1.50 each.

It wouldn't surprise me if I could find a match, if I knew what I was looking for... -Anyone post a photo for me to hunt for an ersatz part at the surplus store?

Keith

dmn23

This seems to be the prescribed cure for a number of switches on the 944 (I'm thinking of the windows in particular). Might it stand to reason that the hatch microswitch could be cleaned as well?

Regardless of whether VWaddict has a line on some inexpensive microswitches, I'd definitely like to see a photo as well. If getting rid of some of the gunk and grime might fix the problem, it would be helpful to know where it is and what I'm looking for.

lleroyb

I was able to get my hatch key switch working again by bending the metal arm. It does look like a common micro switch, but I never removed it to get a part number. If you have the footwell switch working now, the hard (and expensive) part is over.

Lou

dmn23

I don't want to say this too loudly, because I know she'll hear me. Both methods work now...

josephsc

All she needed was some TLC (tender loving care).

Shark_gts

I don't like that hatch motor. It is giving us fits as well. Too complicated! We are going to look at doing a less expensive, solenoid style actuator replacement.

Regards,

paul Jager

gtroth

I had a bunch of trouble with the connectors that connect the motor to the harness comming loose. I put some tie wraps around each connector and then tie wrapped those tie wraps together to hold the connector connected. Pretty? Well, no, but it works. That connector's behind some crummy foam back there by the motor. The foam won't survive. I replaced that with some foam household pipe insulation to keep it from rattling. Anyway, if it acts up, you might look there.