Engine wont rotate need help
#1
Lazer Beam Shooter
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Engine wont rotate need help
I was getting everything back together on the car. We got a new head and put it on, it looked to be ok.
I put the timing belt on and then tried to rotate the engine by hand. The car moved a few turns and then stopped. It stopped really hard, it isnt on a compression stroke. Tried rotating it back the other way, and it stopped about 20 degrees the other way.
Now it will only rotate freely about +-35 degrees then it will seize both ways.
We sprayed wd40 into the intake manifold holes because we thought the valves were stuck closed. The wd40 formed a puddle and then we rotated it again.
Every valve opened except the 3rd cylinder valve. Do you think the 3rd cylinder intake valve is stuck closed? Is it possible this is a bad valve spring?
Should I just put it all back together and let the force of the motor rotate it
Im not sure what else to do at this point.
I put the timing belt on and then tried to rotate the engine by hand. The car moved a few turns and then stopped. It stopped really hard, it isnt on a compression stroke. Tried rotating it back the other way, and it stopped about 20 degrees the other way.
Now it will only rotate freely about +-35 degrees then it will seize both ways.
We sprayed wd40 into the intake manifold holes because we thought the valves were stuck closed. The wd40 formed a puddle and then we rotated it again.
Every valve opened except the 3rd cylinder valve. Do you think the 3rd cylinder intake valve is stuck closed? Is it possible this is a bad valve spring?
Should I just put it all back together and let the force of the motor rotate it
Im not sure what else to do at this point.
#2
Race Car
Bad valve spring will not cause the valve not to open. Rust at the valve and seat will get the valve to get stuck but I am sure you won't put a non reworked head back in the car. You will want to take the plugs out and check the piston as its coming up in comparison to valve movement. If that doesn't tell you anything (ie mistimed), then you want to remove the head again just to turn the crank over by hand to make sure its not something in the bottom end.
Basically, to make it simple, it can only be 4 things. Bottom end problems, something big in your cylinders, stuck valves (very bent or something like bad rust), or wrong timing where the piston is hitting the valve on the way up.
Basically, to make it simple, it can only be 4 things. Bottom end problems, something big in your cylinders, stuck valves (very bent or something like bad rust), or wrong timing where the piston is hitting the valve on the way up.
#7
Rennlist Member
once you rotated the engine reverse you screwed the timing all up. Go back to number 1 and reset everything........ Now basically you have to start over, I know that's not what you want to hear but, that's were I'd start.
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#9
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When I say start over I mean remove said timing belt set the head so no damage to the valves and start over at the beginning..... just like you did when the head was off.. maybe it's set the pistons at just off center, huh been 4 yrs since I did mine. you will have to remove the timing belt.
#12
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Rotating the motor by hand, no probably not. You need to exert a fair amount of force on the valve before it will bend. If you didn't try to force it by hand really hard, you probably haven't damaged anything. Just don't use the starter until you are SURE you've got it timed properly. I.E. until you've turned it over many times without any problems. Take the plugs out for this operation, much much easier if the cylinder isn't building compression.
#13
Nordschleife Master
It doesn't take much force to bend a valve if the crank has some momentum. Backing it up and trying again would probably clinch it. If it were my engine and valve timing was the problem I'd pull all the valves and check them on a dial gauge.