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944 n/a upgrade ecu

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Old 05-10-2006, 09:49 AM
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ajp944
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Default 944 n/a upgrade ecu

Hi there I have read some where that the pre 1985 944 drives much better with the post 1985 2.7 ecu and afm. Is this true??

What else can be done to the 944 n/a engine without harming it.
Old 05-10-2006, 10:22 AM
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Charlotte944
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This is true, but you need to swap both parts. The early and late parts are not interchangeable.

The best things to do are to make sure the engine is mechanically sound, keep the timing and balance belts properly tensioned, change the oil at regular intervals, and drive the car.
Old 05-10-2006, 10:44 AM
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ajp944, charlotte is correct. you have just got this car, go over it and make sure it is in good running order before swapping stuff out and even then a 944 NA is just that and was designed for just that, enjoy it, you will not be disappointed, I love mine more than any car I have ever owned. It will throw enough stuff at you to work on, in its current config, without adding more variables to the mix!

check this site for some maintenance/performance tweaks that can be done:

http://www.9xauto.com/944.html
Old 05-10-2006, 10:51 AM
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Thanks for the quick feed back, I will have a look over. The engine has just been reconditioned all the belts and parts look brand new with no wear. The only thing is the oil pressure which is very low on the dials, the oil light flashing during idle and engine idle vibration which I will sort out with new mounts.
Old 05-10-2006, 10:58 AM
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check the throttle body too (inside - remove jboot) for oil deposits, this can cause rough idle, indicates AOS seals (Air Oil Separator), possibly.

mine starts first go, but idles rough until after the 5 min warm up, the runs like its a new engine (155000kms on it) I have ordered engine mounts, but found a post about the AOS as well, upon checking, I have small amount of oil coating in the throttle body, so I continue the troubleshooting.....

edit: I dont like the sound of the low oil pressure! but it could be bad sender or wiring. mine was pegged a 5 until last week, when I replaced the ignition lock barrel, now it reads (hopefully normal) at 3.5 - 5 bar. I think the lock replacement had nothing to do with it, just coincidence? maybe bad wiring or sender or dicky gauge!
Old 05-10-2006, 12:57 PM
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the throttle body will ALWAYS have a thin coat of oil on it because of the AOS... as the intake puts vacuum on the crankcase it pulls oil into the intake. fact of life. dont like it, get an oil catch can.
Old 05-10-2006, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by ajp944
Thanks for the quick feed back, I will have a look over. The engine has just been reconditioned all the belts and parts look brand new with no wear. The only thing is the oil pressure which is very low on the dials, the oil light flashing during idle and engine idle vibration which I will sort out with new mounts.
I would look into the low oil pressure ASAP. At startup with the engine cold you should have between 4 and 5 BAR of oil pressure. With the engine hot and at idle you should have 2.5 BAR MINIMUM. Oil pressure should go to at least 4 BAR under acceleration when the engine is hot.

Make sure you have the correct amount and type of oil.

If the engine was recently worked on, you may have a problem with the Oil Pressure Relief Valve. The valve could be stuck open and is dumping oil back to the oil pan.

For the vibration, it may be motor mounts, but a miss timed balance shaft, or lack of a balance shaft belt will cause the engine to vibrate excessively.

I would contact the previous owner and find out EXACTLY what has been done to the engine as well as who did the work.



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