apierce918

because of how thick the stone guards are, i would go ahead and try and scrape/peel as much off as you can.

that is what i did before i bought the wheel (or knew a thing even existed until asking on here). then i used the wheel to get the rest off, and to get the rubber sealant off the door side mouldings too.

the product you linked to is correct. i got a 3M one from Finishmaster and i think it was in the neighborhood of 15-$20

Little Porsche Boy

There's an Excellence article out there where they did this to their 944. IIRC they used the eraser. But, I'm not certain.

Anyone know in which issue this appeared?

Issue # 100: April, 2001

951Boost

Thanks guys

GOSANE

[QUOTE=951Boost]I'm about to do this myself and was wondering about the procedure, does one first use the heat gun to remove the top film then the rubber earaser wheel to remove the heavy residue and finally some type of adhesive remover for what's left?

Boost, the wheel (aprox. 3in in dia.) is used by itself in a drill or something similar. The friction of the wheel produces the heat that softens the plastic and it's adhesive backing. It also then rubs off the "stuff" from the paint. How it does this without burning the paint is beyond me to explain but one can burn the paint if you get too agressive or hold it on one spot too long. The wheel wears down in the whole process just like on a pencil eraser;^) I personally use Lacquer thinner to wipe off the small amount of residue leftover but as someone stated before that might not be a good idea on the older single-stage or even two-stage paints. A milder wax and grease or adhesive remover might be a better bet.(always test on a hidden area to be sure).

GOSANE

packrat

I replaced my stone guards a few weeks ago and started off using the heat gun approach. Because of a little impatience and maybe worried I could possibly blister the paint, I set up a halogen work light about 10" from the stone guard and warmed the area up. It seemed for me a lot easier to slowly peel the guard off as it was heating up than holding a heat gun in one hand and trying to peel. They had quite a few cracks but came off easy in pieces.

After that it was a just a matter of leaving the light on the glue to soften it as I scraped the warm glue off with a plastic scraper. What was left then was just a thin film of glue I wiped off with Goof Off and Prep All.

There was some mention here of using Goof Off on non-clear coated paint... I'm not sure since my car is clear coated and showed no hazing from it.

I will say when placing the new stone guards on, make sure you do not get the slightest speck of dirt under them. I wound up getting a couple real small grains of sand under them and an air bubble will form around the trapped dirt. No matter how much I squeegeed them, I never could get the air bubbles out.

Lorax

Well today I finally got the two larger pieces off, it helped to develop a good technique with the scraper. It took me about 2 hrs to get those tow done, as I was going very slowly to avoid any possible damage. Im going to get the rest done tomarrow and hopefully hit the whole car with the clay bar this weekend - I have the technique for the removal down pretty well now, so if someone wants info on my method then send me a PM... thanks again for the advice.