GOOD news this time.
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
GOOD news this time.
Hey all!
I got my car through inspection!!
And I got my gauges working correctly too!
SOOOO happy!
BUUUUT My battery died today and will no longer hold a charge for more than 1 start. (Because thats the way my life is. But Ill take 2 good things for one bad).
And then i go to advace auto, they say they have one that will work but do not have it in stock and it will take a week to get. It is $60 and Im not sure of the brand.
Sears has a die hard 700CCA and 110min RC but that is $120!.
Why is there such a big difference in price? Which one would you guys go for?
Thanks
-Brett
I got my car through inspection!!
And I got my gauges working correctly too!
SOOOO happy!
BUUUUT My battery died today and will no longer hold a charge for more than 1 start. (Because thats the way my life is. But Ill take 2 good things for one bad).
And then i go to advace auto, they say they have one that will work but do not have it in stock and it will take a week to get. It is $60 and Im not sure of the brand.
Sears has a die hard 700CCA and 110min RC but that is $120!.
Why is there such a big difference in price? Which one would you guys go for?
Thanks
-Brett
#2
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I've gotten a good battery from Wal Mart, for 80's VW and Audi cars. Group 41-4. $40ish and generally in stock. I've managed to kill one after four years but that was due to storing my car for the winter without charging the battery.
-Joel.
-Joel.
#3
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If you want to go for what will work get a $40 special at Wal-mart. If you want to spend the cash on the Die hard at Sears, don't.. get the Optima battery for the same price and its MUCH better.
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#10
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14.7 with the engine running means the alternator is working. Should be 13.8 with the engine off. Let it sit for a little while then turn on the headlights and check again, with the engine off. Should be about 12.5. If not the battery is probably bad..
#11
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Thread Starter
Yeah I checked the old one before I left. It would not sit at a voltage it fluctuated between 10 and 13.
So i went out... bought one from advance ($60) and now it sits right at 14.50 exactly running. And it was 12.5ish just before i started the engine.
-Brett
So i went out... bought one from advance ($60) and now it sits right at 14.50 exactly running. And it was 12.5ish just before i started the engine.
-Brett
#12
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Originally Posted by Calmchaos
Yeah I checked the old one before I left. It would not sit at a voltage it fluctuated between 10 and 13.
So i went out... bought one from advance ($60) and now it sits right at 14.50 exactly running. And it was 12.5ish just before i started the engine.
-Brett
So i went out... bought one from advance ($60) and now it sits right at 14.50 exactly running. And it was 12.5ish just before i started the engine.
-Brett
You probably had a cell starting to go bad for whatever reason. Don't laugh but I've used a trick someone showed me many years ago and it's worked 75% of the time. Whenever a battery (non-gel type) would act up I would remove it, make sure the caps were tight and turn it over (upside down) a few times. Sometimes the deposits at the bottom of the case are conductive enough to cause a problem and it acts like a bad cell. It won't restore a bad battery but it will last a bit longer before replacement is needed. Sounds ghetto but it works pretty well. Corroded battery terminals and grounds are the #1 cause of what appears to be low voltage, no charge battery problems.