My Engine Bay Restoration, Hose Replacement, Tune-Up, etc. with pictures
#107
Three Wheelin'
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Originally Posted by Whitt944
Any updates?
(My wife gets nervous every time I open this post up!)
(My wife gets nervous every time I open this post up!)
As promised, here are a few suggestions/comments on what I went through.
• You can download the shop manuals here http://www.cannell.co.uk/Manuals.htm, (I hope that is legal, if not I’ll remove it from this post) and the PET parts manual from the Porsche website. I found them very useful.
• Take the front clip off first thing- it will help keep it from getting scratched or dented and the intercooler makes a good arm rest.
• Speaking of scratches, don’t scratch your car, it will **** you off. I forgot to tie off my drop-light cord, gave it a yank, and the plug put a nice ¼” long scratch on top of the fender.
• Clean very gently at first, especially parts that will not be plated like the tops of the struts. A “non-scratch” kitchen pad (it looks like scotch-brite but doesn’t scratch) works well to start. You may find that some things still have good plating under the corrosion and dirt.
• Don’t drop anything into the engine compartment that you ever want to see again, especially when it’s going back together. The back of the engine is really hard to work on, and there’s a flywheel inspection hole on top that makes a perfect part-eater. It’s well worth the time to put a piece of tape over it before you start.
• Electrical connector clips- you can put them on first, then push the connectors together. I think I discovered this on the last one, but it’s a lot easier than putting them on while plugged together.
• Oil the throttle and CC cables while off- you can lift them up to let the oil drain down in deep.
• Take LOTS of pictures as you go, with close-ups showing the correct size and type of bolts, etc. for when it goes back together.
• Plating:
1. Make sure that they do as much as possible on the rack. I had some parts that could have been hung on the rack, and tumbling around in the barrel left little scratches.
2. Polish everything as well as you can before plating. Imperfections will show through. I used a wire wheel on a bench grinder for the stuff that was bad, and then finished with Scotch-Brite.
3. If you’re going to do the headlight linkage, make sure they wire up the links that are electrically isolated from the bar. I took a lot of time to polish the bar on a lathe, and the first time they plated it, it looked amazing, but they had to re-do it because the links didn’t get plated. After etching and re-plating, it didn’t look nearly as good.
4. Take a thorough inventory of the nuts/bolts/washers before sending them to the plater. It’s a good idea to buy some extra hardware and get it plated too, in case they lose any. I also bought an extra bulkhead for the brake lines by the battery and got it plated. It will be replaced soon when I bleed the brakes.
5. Don't be afraid to make them re-do any parts that didn't come out well, but you may want to re-polish them depending on how bad they are.
That's about all I can think of for now. Thanks again to everyone for all the compliments and motivation to keep going
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Before I go to the trouble of compiling a list of all the parts that went into it and prices, I'll wait to see if anyone is really interested. If so, let me know and I post it here.
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#112
Three Wheelin'
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Hehe, thanks everyone, donations are always welcome for my medication.
Jeremy, I bet it would be a nice change to have someone else work on your car instead of you always working on theirs, huh?
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Jeremy, I bet it would be a nice change to have someone else work on your car instead of you always working on theirs, huh?
#116
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
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Thanks guys,
Below is a picture of the blaster and bag of glass beads for those of you that have PM'd me asking (no pictures allowed in PM's) U-30AT, The coolant I used was GM/Prestone DEX-COOL.
Below is a picture of the blaster and bag of glass beads for those of you that have PM'd me asking (no pictures allowed in PM's) U-30AT, The coolant I used was GM/Prestone DEX-COOL.
#119
Official Rennlist
Borat Impersonator
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Borat Impersonator
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Originally Posted by kevincnc
...no pictures allowed in PM's