Removing balance belt and cam belt crank gears.
#1
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I'll be diving into this over the weekend and am asking if anyone has any words of wisdom or lessons learned....
I've read over the Clark's Garage procedures and am left with a couple of questions.
How necessary is a gear pulley and how hard is it to remove the cam belt gear once the balance belt gear is removed?
What is the torque when reinstalling the crank bolt?
Thanks in advance
I've read over the Clark's Garage procedures and am left with a couple of questions.
How necessary is a gear pulley and how hard is it to remove the cam belt gear once the balance belt gear is removed?
What is the torque when reinstalling the crank bolt?
Thanks in advance
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#3
Burning Brakes
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you will need a cheap gear puller.
bag everything.
you may want new woodruf keys.
seals?
oil pump drive sleeve?
crank bolt: 210 ftlb - have a 3' lever. (edit: just checked for 210, unless i read it wrong)
work slow - straight forward.
bag everything.
you may want new woodruf keys.
seals?
oil pump drive sleeve?
crank bolt: 210 ftlb - have a 3' lever. (edit: just checked for 210, unless i read it wrong)
work slow - straight forward.
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Get a gear puller. Prying those gears off tends to break stuff. I found this out the hard way - fortunately it was just the rear t-belt cover, but still. . .
For the crank bolt, I strongly recommend a good length of pipe and a breaker bar. I use a 1/2" drive Craftsman breaker bar and two 2'-0" lengths of black pipe (available at Home Despot for about $10) connected with a coupler to make a nice 4' bar. I have yet to find a bolt it can't get loose. Because it breaks down into the 2' sections it fits in a toolbox too. Bonus.
For the crank bolt, I strongly recommend a good length of pipe and a breaker bar. I use a 1/2" drive Craftsman breaker bar and two 2'-0" lengths of black pipe (available at Home Despot for about $10) connected with a coupler to make a nice 4' bar. I have yet to find a bolt it can't get loose. Because it breaks down into the 2' sections it fits in a toolbox too. Bonus.
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#8
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Originally Posted by Mike C.
You might want to order a new cam sprocket bolt. It isn't unusual to have the cheese head strip out and then you have to drill the head off the bolt. BTDT....
Thanks for all the advice keep it coming!
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"Removing balance belt and cam belt crank gears"
So.......your removing the sprockets from the CRANKSHAFT......right?
Crankbolt torque is 155 FT lbs. (you must NOT have read Clark's garage, or the FSM by now, and HAVEN'T READ IT thoroughly?..........please re-read. Its pretty much all there, believe it, follow it.......at least till ya get SOME experience with doing this).
12,874 posts.........AMAZING!
Gearpuller? IF, you DON'T need one............You have more problems, than you think. Your crankshaft or that particuar sprocket is wore down more than it should be. It should be a fit to fit, but will not come off very easily without a puller (time/corrosion/CRAP intrusion). After cleanup, and prep for re-install, it should easily tap back on the shaft. Can't wait to see HOW you remove the crank key,then the seal spacer. Order new ones. There cheap. You'll probably need it.
If you don't have a 3/4" drive ratchet/breaker bar set...........good luck getting the crank bolt off. Unless.......your a gorrilla, or lucky........and, your 1/2" stuff doesn't break on ya. Tools my friend. The right tool........for the right job (also known as, "if your gonna play.......your gonna pay"). Just my .02 worth........no harm intended.
So.......your removing the sprockets from the CRANKSHAFT......right?
Crankbolt torque is 155 FT lbs. (you must NOT have read Clark's garage, or the FSM by now, and HAVEN'T READ IT thoroughly?..........please re-read. Its pretty much all there, believe it, follow it.......at least till ya get SOME experience with doing this).
12,874 posts.........AMAZING!
Gearpuller? IF, you DON'T need one............You have more problems, than you think. Your crankshaft or that particuar sprocket is wore down more than it should be. It should be a fit to fit, but will not come off very easily without a puller (time/corrosion/CRAP intrusion). After cleanup, and prep for re-install, it should easily tap back on the shaft. Can't wait to see HOW you remove the crank key,then the seal spacer. Order new ones. There cheap. You'll probably need it.
If you don't have a 3/4" drive ratchet/breaker bar set...........good luck getting the crank bolt off. Unless.......your a gorrilla, or lucky........and, your 1/2" stuff doesn't break on ya. Tools my friend. The right tool........for the right job (also known as, "if your gonna play.......your gonna pay"). Just my .02 worth........no harm intended.
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I didn't need a puller, a 12" prybar worked ok moving around the pulley. Took maybe 4 minutes of prying. It's not that bad.
Though I would recommend a flywheel lock, it made the job MUCH easier!
Though I would recommend a flywheel lock, it made the job MUCH easier!
#11
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I had minimal trouble breaking the crank bolt free with a 2 foot breaker bar and im a fairly slim guy.
I had alot of trouble however removing the the gears that slide onto the crank. I initially tried to pry it off with a prybar, but it felt like i was going to damage the block so i bought a cheap gear puller from Sears, it would have helped to have another set of hands to line everything up, but it came off without much fuss afterwards. I highly recommend taking off the fan shroud, it is 6 bolts and very easy to take out...will give you much more room to work.
I had alot of trouble however removing the the gears that slide onto the crank. I initially tried to pry it off with a prybar, but it felt like i was going to damage the block so i bought a cheap gear puller from Sears, it would have helped to have another set of hands to line everything up, but it came off without much fuss afterwards. I highly recommend taking off the fan shroud, it is 6 bolts and very easy to take out...will give you much more room to work.
#12
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Of you are doing your cam belt then you Need a flywheel lock no question. Also yeah get a big breaker bar you will be glad you did.
Brandon
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#13
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I do have the flywheel lock and wouldn't attempt this without it.
I appreciate all the input.
Point being? This happens to be my first shot at this and want to solicit others for lessons learned. Is a post count suppposed to infer maintenance experience?
I appreciate all the input.
Originally Posted by granite 944
12,874 posts.........AMAZING!
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Do you have power steering? When replacing the power steering pulley make sure it is aligned properly. Might take a few tries unless yours has a lip. If it is not perfectly centered you will have problems - it will be noticable when you turn the motor over.
A small cheapo gear puller will save you time on the gear removal and will come in handy for other jobs too. And definitely make sure you torque to spec as the oil pump is friction driven and the torque on the crank pulley bolt is all important with respect to oil pressure.
A small cheapo gear puller will save you time on the gear removal and will come in handy for other jobs too. And definitely make sure you torque to spec as the oil pump is friction driven and the torque on the crank pulley bolt is all important with respect to oil pressure.