torsion tube removal question
#16
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Hey Jim,
I'm in the middle of this "restoration" project in which I'm basically wasting a lot of money trying to make a near-perfect 944S. Although I'm generally keeping the spec stock, I decided to make improvements in the suspension and brakes (turbo) areas.
For the front, I have the Paragon ARHK with 300 lb/in springs, Koni inserts and Ground Control camber plates. I also have the 968 caster blocks and new OEM control arm bushings.
At the rear, I have bought Koni shocks and 28 mm torsion bars. I was going to put the Welt bushings in, but now I am sure that I'm not, it is too much work to have to do it over.
I still have to decide on what to do about anti-roll bars, and I still have to get the extended ball joint kit to prepare the control arms for lowering.
Thanks for pointing out the difference in cost with the RE bushings. It sort of says it all, doesn't it? It looks like I will bite the bullet on this too (something I say all too frequently!)
Thanks!
I'm in the middle of this "restoration" project in which I'm basically wasting a lot of money trying to make a near-perfect 944S. Although I'm generally keeping the spec stock, I decided to make improvements in the suspension and brakes (turbo) areas.
For the front, I have the Paragon ARHK with 300 lb/in springs, Koni inserts and Ground Control camber plates. I also have the 968 caster blocks and new OEM control arm bushings.
At the rear, I have bought Koni shocks and 28 mm torsion bars. I was going to put the Welt bushings in, but now I am sure that I'm not, it is too much work to have to do it over.
I still have to decide on what to do about anti-roll bars, and I still have to get the extended ball joint kit to prepare the control arms for lowering.
Thanks for pointing out the difference in cost with the RE bushings. It sort of says it all, doesn't it? It looks like I will bite the bullet on this too (something I say all too frequently!)
Thanks!
#17
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The problem with Weltmeister is the products are for mild suspension upgrades. Meaning for street car only applications. If used to AX or CR they simply are not up to the task, especially in a Porsche suspension design. But even the street use only has had some less than stellar reports as well.
I found the installation of the RE Delrins went very smooth, had more pain in removing the OE bushings. There is one spot on the car that Welts must be used because no one else makes the part except in high end parts but that is the rear A arm bushing, all else can be had in Delrins. Buy a 30 dollar bushing get a 30 dollar result, this does apply on bushings in this case.
The Delrins are JUST bearable on the street(RR tracks, ruts, etc) so if you don't mind a jolt or two go for it. Having said that it does help to have less spring rate but my 400#'ers have my Dentist planning his next purchase for a Porsche!
Dal
I found the installation of the RE Delrins went very smooth, had more pain in removing the OE bushings. There is one spot on the car that Welts must be used because no one else makes the part except in high end parts but that is the rear A arm bushing, all else can be had in Delrins. Buy a 30 dollar bushing get a 30 dollar result, this does apply on bushings in this case.
The Delrins are JUST bearable on the street(RR tracks, ruts, etc) so if you don't mind a jolt or two go for it. Having said that it does help to have less spring rate but my 400#'ers have my Dentist planning his next purchase for a Porsche!
Dal
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Ohh...those rear bushings....brings back nightmares. I replaced mine with the ER ones, but getting the old bushings and sleeves out was brutal. I was pounding on that thing with a hammer and socket to get them out. The sleeve was mildly rusted and made it almost welded to the aluminum.
#20
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Originally Posted by shiners780
Hey Brian,
I am eliminating the torsion bars and installing Leda coilovers.
The trailing arms have been disconnected from the torsion tube, and the lower shock mounting bolts are removed. The trailing arms are being supported by jack stands. Brake flex hoses are disconnected, and rear section of exhaust is out. Seems like this should be fine, as long as nothing's connected to the torsion tube, no?
I don't see the cross bar with 4 bolts that you refer to. I'll look again.
Grrrrr.
I am eliminating the torsion bars and installing Leda coilovers.
The trailing arms have been disconnected from the torsion tube, and the lower shock mounting bolts are removed. The trailing arms are being supported by jack stands. Brake flex hoses are disconnected, and rear section of exhaust is out. Seems like this should be fine, as long as nothing's connected to the torsion tube, no?
I don't see the cross bar with 4 bolts that you refer to. I'll look again.
Grrrrr.
BTW, I had to use 2 meters of 2"x4" to pry out the driver's side of torsion tube...
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Rear bushings......I went the pnuematic route on my OE bushings and they still put up a respectable battle! The hardened rubber baked on the sleeves makes that sleeve even harder to deal with.
#22
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Jim, Dal and all,
Based on what you guys have said, I've ordered the Racer's Edge derlin bushings and will leave the Welts I have on the shelf.
I'm curious to know what you did for lubircation and how it has held up Dal (or anyone else with RE derlins).
Thanks!
Based on what you guys have said, I've ordered the Racer's Edge derlin bushings and will leave the Welts I have on the shelf.
I'm curious to know what you did for lubircation and how it has held up Dal (or anyone else with RE derlins).
Thanks!
Last edited by 500; 03-24-2006 at 06:08 PM. Reason: typo
#23
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Originally Posted by amjf088
Jim, Dal and all,
Based on what you guys have said, I've ordered the Racer's Edge derlin bushings and will leave the Welts I have on the shelf.
I'm curious to know what you did for lubircation and how it has held up Dal (or anyone else with RE derlins).
Thanks!
Based on what you guys have said, I've ordered the Racer's Edge derlin bushings and will leave the Welts I have on the shelf.
I'm curious to know what you did for lubircation and how it has held up Dal (or anyone else with RE derlins).
Thanks!
You'll also need a brake honing tool ($10), also available at auto parts stores, to hone the inside of the castings of the torsion tube and spring plate covers. Get one that spreads to at least 3 inches (I think the one I got spreads to 4 inches). Since the honing stones that come on the larger sized tools are so long, I cut them off with a dremel, and attached some shorter replacement stones ($5).
Also, figure on having the bushings pressed onto the spring plates. Most auto repair shops should have a press. I went to Firestone, since they're close by, and they pressed them on no problem.
Pics of spring plate cover, the one on right has been honed, the one on left hasn't been honed. Spring plate with RE delrin bushings pressed on.
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I used a light weight moly lube and the bushing thus far are holding up very well. I thought my rear sway bar bushings rounded out but after a better look they are fine as well.
Only issue I have is the ride on the street, especially when cold.
In my case I did not need to hone, just my press.
Dal
Only issue I have is the ride on the street, especially when cold.
In my case I did not need to hone, just my press.
Dal
#25
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That's some good info guys, thanks!