Ok, i need to carry out a few jobs, and i am doing everything in one go. If you guys/gals would like to follow my checklist, and make sure i got everything i would need:

-Cylinder head gasket set (wildfire)
-New valve guides
-New valve springs (along with assorted shims)

The cylinder head would be taken to a local machine shop, to check the head for straightness, pressure testing, replacing the guides, springs, valve lapping, cleaning valves and will be checking all measurements with the manual. Along with checking all the threads and repairing any.

Since the cylinder head is off, i am doing the front engine seals. Zims have a nice delux kit, which includes all three spacers, seals and the camshaft bolt all for $84, a steal if you ask me.

Next on the list is the oil cooler seals; However, since the oil cooler is fine (no water and oil mixing), it is unkown when/if the seals are updated. For $32 from Paragon (and Zims i believe) and the head is off, so i can't ask for a better time in terms of access and so on.

And.....well that's it.....i may go for new exhaust maifold studs and copper nuts....but we shall see......

Belts and rollers have been replaced, so i don't need to address them again. Exhaust manifold has been wrapper with exhaust header......which eliminated anything 'while you are in there'.

Reason why i am replacing the valve springs, is because i know those 20 year-old springs would be in good condition, but i'd rather rebuild the head right than re-use those old springs.


I would be needing a flywheel lock (from Bruce) and the oil cooler alignment tool (where to get it?)

Anything else i would need? would like to see you're opinion

Take care!

 

Ok, i am going to order the parts today then.

 

You could also look at the o rings at the back of the balance shaft housings, mine started to weep after 20 years.

 

Good call, i have high temp silicon there.....replacing that seal is definately worth it!

 

"-New valve springs (along with assorted shims)"

I wasn't aware of this either when I started my headgasket job, but the shims are hydraulic, meaning you never replace shims or the buckets unless something is damaged on them. They won't go "out of spec." When you remove them, squeeze on the shim in the bucket. If it sticks after you push it in, you should probably replace it. But, if you haven't been hearing "click click click" from them before (while the motor's running), you may as well re-use them. It's nice to mark on the top of each bucket which cylinder they belong to, but not absolutely neccesary. Hope all goes well!

 

Trevor: Thanks for the input on those shims, i was concerned if i should get new ones or not. We (the local machine shop and myself) rebuilt a cylinder head for a rennlister (located in Bahrain) before, so it was a nice 'lesson' into how things are done in the cylinder head.

Yes, we saw those shims, more like washers, but had no clue where they go, we eventually sent back the cylinder head to the rennlister, and his mechanic did installed them (we got the cylinder head and the valves, springs, guides and washers in different packages).

But would the new springs need the shims/washers? according to the manual, the height of the springs after being installed in the head, should be 41.0mm +/- 0.5mm, hence where the shims come in.

Another questions, shoudl ALL the springs be EXACTLY the same height, or just within spec (eg. one spring being 41.00mm, one being 40.5mm and so on)?

TIA, just placed an order from varios vendors, package should be leaving tomorrow

 

Are you talking about the washers that are under and on top of the springs themselves? I thought you meant "shims," as in "lifters" or "buckets." The lifters don't need replacing unless they're clacking. As for the spring height, I would assume as long as each spring is within spec, you shouldn't have a problem. The hydraulic lifters should account for the slack.

 

Trevor: Noooo, i was talking about the valve spring shims, NOT the lifters. The lifters are excellent, no ticking, no wear marks at all. I know this because i had the camshaft housing off (gasket replacement) and didn't mix-up the lifters and soaked them in oil for 2-3 hours.

 

Oh ok well, now that I know what you're talking about (my fault), I would agree with what I said before, as long as the height of each spring is within spec, it shouldn't matter that they aren't all the same height as each other.

edit: I didn't see painting, polishing, or powdercoating anywhere on that list! Make it pretty too! On a serious note, you might consider new head studs / washers / nuts. The OEM studs will stretch, and can give you an in-accurate torque reading or be weaker than they used to be. "While you're in there..." you know? I replaced mine when I did my HG for an external leak with the studs availible at Paragon Products.

 

The manual never stated anything regarding the studs or nuts and washers, a few rennlisters confirmed this with me.

As for painting/polishing/powdercoating....not planed on it at all, just nice and clean

 

Don't forget to post the obligatory pictures when you're done

 

If i find my camera.....i MAY polish a few things here and there.