power window question
02-19-2006, 12:00 PM
#1
Track Day
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power window question
i recently acquired an 84 944. but the power windows will not roll down. both of the dont even make a sound. is there a relay or fuse to check to see if thats it? if not, can i convert them to manual windows? i prefer manual
02-22-2006, 04:36 AM
#5
Three Wheelin'
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Should be in the same box as the fuses... but I have a late car, so I'm not sure if it's exactly the same for you (?).
I don't remember how off the top of my head, but applying voltage from a small battery across two terminals on the relay will activate it, and you'll hear the "click" when you do so.
Also, check the switch itself. Remove it. Turn your multimeter to the Continuity setting (it should beep at you if there is a connection between the two wires on your multimeter) and put the leads from the switch on the leads of the multimeter. Press the switch. No beep? Bad switch.
I don't remember how off the top of my head, but applying voltage from a small battery across two terminals on the relay will activate it, and you'll hear the "click" when you do so.
Also, check the switch itself. Remove it. Turn your multimeter to the Continuity setting (it should beep at you if there is a connection between the two wires on your multimeter) and put the leads from the switch on the leads of the multimeter. Press the switch. No beep? Bad switch.
02-22-2006, 10:29 AM
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I would see if it is the switches. Only 1 1/2 out of three work on my car. I have taken the good switch on mine and tried it in the other sockets and sure enough it is my switches.
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02-22-2006, 10:39 PM
#8
Burning Brakes
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For the '84's, the sunroof and radio are on one relay, the windows on a seperate one. The window relay is under the dash on the drivers side, attached to the side of the console. It's hiding behind a black cover. The green arrow in the pic below is pointing to the connector. I moved some stuff out of the way for the pic.
The windows are on fuse #8 of the secondary fuse board, which is the one without all of the relays. (#9 is closest to the steering colum, 8 is right next to it. This is a 16 amp fuse)
If the fuse checks out and the relay is plugged in, you'll need to get to the switches to test any further. If you have a voltmeter or 12v test light, you can check if the relay is OK once one of the switches is out. You can also check the motors by jumping some pins in the switch socket.
I went into removing/cleaning and adjusting the switches in a thread a while back. Have a look at this thread (lots of pics)
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-944-951-968-forum/204641-passenger-side-window-won-t-go-down.html
The socket is marked on the back with pins A - E (The switch is marked 1-5. They can only fit into the socket one way because of the odd pin). Check power to the switch socket for the driver's window switch (closer to the back of the car). If the relay is working, you will have +12 volts at pins D and E on the switch socket. Pin C is ground. Check with a test light or meter, with the ignition on to the acc position. (Common sense please - careful with poking sharp exposed metal things into live power. Make sure the probes aren't touching inadvertantly)
If this checks out, you can test the motor by jumping power into pins A and B of the socket. Pins A and B go directly to the window motor. Running power in one way makes the window go down, reverse the polarity and the window goes up. You will need a couple pieces of wire with stipped ends, 6 or 8 inches long. A little scrap of speaker wire or lamp cord should do the trick - you only need to stip off 1/2 inch on each end, then twist the wires up tight.
A little advance warning this time with jumping connections in the switch socket, as I suggest in the next section. Do not ever jump D-C or E-C. This will be a direct short which is very bad. Again, you will be doing this with the ignition switch at the acc position.
Basically, you use pin D to supply +12 volts and pin C for the ground ( - 12 volts) First try jumping pins D to A and C to B. Both jumpers must be in place for this to work. If that doesn't do anything, or it just sounds like the motor is trying to do something but can't, swap the jumpers to D - B and C - A. If that works, you have confirmed that the problem is in the switches. Clean and adjust them as in the other thread. (You can close the window by swapping the jumpers around)
Checking the passenger motor is a little more complicated because the power has to go through the front switch in the drivers door first. You need to jumper pins D-A in that socket to get power to pin D in the passenger door socket. Once you have that, jumper pins in the passenger socket like above.
PM or post a reply if you have any questions. Also, if you don't feel comfortable with this kind of electrical stuff, find someone who is. It's really not that big of a deal though. You're playing with a protected circuit, and even a direct short will just spark a bit and burn the fuse. Good Luck!
The windows are on fuse #8 of the secondary fuse board, which is the one without all of the relays. (#9 is closest to the steering colum, 8 is right next to it. This is a 16 amp fuse)
If the fuse checks out and the relay is plugged in, you'll need to get to the switches to test any further. If you have a voltmeter or 12v test light, you can check if the relay is OK once one of the switches is out. You can also check the motors by jumping some pins in the switch socket.
I went into removing/cleaning and adjusting the switches in a thread a while back. Have a look at this thread (lots of pics)
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-944-951-968-forum/204641-passenger-side-window-won-t-go-down.html
The socket is marked on the back with pins A - E (The switch is marked 1-5. They can only fit into the socket one way because of the odd pin). Check power to the switch socket for the driver's window switch (closer to the back of the car). If the relay is working, you will have +12 volts at pins D and E on the switch socket. Pin C is ground. Check with a test light or meter, with the ignition on to the acc position. (Common sense please - careful with poking sharp exposed metal things into live power. Make sure the probes aren't touching inadvertantly)
If this checks out, you can test the motor by jumping power into pins A and B of the socket. Pins A and B go directly to the window motor. Running power in one way makes the window go down, reverse the polarity and the window goes up. You will need a couple pieces of wire with stipped ends, 6 or 8 inches long. A little scrap of speaker wire or lamp cord should do the trick - you only need to stip off 1/2 inch on each end, then twist the wires up tight.
A little advance warning this time with jumping connections in the switch socket, as I suggest in the next section. Do not ever jump D-C or E-C. This will be a direct short which is very bad. Again, you will be doing this with the ignition switch at the acc position.
Basically, you use pin D to supply +12 volts and pin C for the ground ( - 12 volts) First try jumping pins D to A and C to B. Both jumpers must be in place for this to work. If that doesn't do anything, or it just sounds like the motor is trying to do something but can't, swap the jumpers to D - B and C - A. If that works, you have confirmed that the problem is in the switches. Clean and adjust them as in the other thread. (You can close the window by swapping the jumpers around)
Checking the passenger motor is a little more complicated because the power has to go through the front switch in the drivers door first. You need to jumper pins D-A in that socket to get power to pin D in the passenger door socket. Once you have that, jumper pins in the passenger socket like above.
PM or post a reply if you have any questions. Also, if you don't feel comfortable with this kind of electrical stuff, find someone who is. It's really not that big of a deal though. You're playing with a protected circuit, and even a direct short will just spark a bit and burn the fuse. Good Luck!
06-23-2006, 05:34 PM
#9
In my situation, with power directly supplied from an outside 12v source, if I jump the pins you mentioned, the window will go up and down.
If I do not supply power and jumper the same way, I will only get 3-6v at the switch trying to supply power but no movement. Is my problem a relay?
If I do not supply power and jumper the same way, I will only get 3-6v at the switch trying to supply power but no movement. Is my problem a relay?
06-23-2006, 06:50 PM
#10
Burning Brakes
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So you're saying that if you measure the voltage between pin D and C of the socket you only get 3-6v?
A relay won't do that - it's more likely a wiring problem. Check voltage from pin D to another ground (basically any bare metal on the chassis - the parking brake bracket comes to mind) and see if that gives you a better reading. If it does, you just have a bad ground connection within the door (or a damaged wire) If not, you need to carefully check the wire supplying power for breaks of kinks. This may not be that easy, especially within the door. You may want to just plan on splicing in a new piece of wire anyway, just for piece of mind.
A relay won't do that - it's more likely a wiring problem. Check voltage from pin D to another ground (basically any bare metal on the chassis - the parking brake bracket comes to mind) and see if that gives you a better reading. If it does, you just have a bad ground connection within the door (or a damaged wire) If not, you need to carefully check the wire supplying power for breaks of kinks. This may not be that easy, especially within the door. You may want to just plan on splicing in a new piece of wire anyway, just for piece of mind.
06-24-2006, 08:59 AM
#12
Nerd Herder
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here come the preaching part.. damn you Sid Viscous.. damn you all to hell.
Have you cleaned the contacts and grounds?? it's amazing what a little oxidation over 15-20 years will do to stimulate a voltage drop.
consistent low voltage sounds like a poor ground to me.
barring that scenario..
Easy enough to swap the switches. When I got my car only 1 switch worked, I rebuilt all 3 and they all worked. Try cleaning the contacts inside the switches if the problem continues after the poor voltage issue is resolved.
Have you cleaned the contacts and grounds?? it's amazing what a little oxidation over 15-20 years will do to stimulate a voltage drop.
consistent low voltage sounds like a poor ground to me.
barring that scenario..
Easy enough to swap the switches. When I got my car only 1 switch worked, I rebuilt all 3 and they all worked. Try cleaning the contacts inside the switches if the problem continues after the poor voltage issue is resolved.
