Replacement Clutch recommendations
#1
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Replacement Clutch recommendations
Well... I think my clutch is on it's last leg. I started getting a little slop in the driveline after the last DE in November. Then last month when out for a drive the clutch clipped noticably when leaving from a stop. And then last weekend, after not having driven it for a couple weeks, twice it felt almost like the pedal got stuck, where I had to depress the clutch pedal again and let it back out for full engagement.
I haven't had a chace to remove the inspection plate and check it, but over the summer when IMA looked at it they said it was in "fair" condition. I didn't ask, but I'm pretty sure it's an original style clutch with the rubber insert.
Which brings me to the question, what do you folks recommend as a good replacement? Standard clutch kit from Paragon or one of the other shops? You Spec racer guys run any kind of sport clutch?
As I've mentioned in other recent posts, the car's main purpose it for DEs, but is still used for the street. I can sacrifice comfort on the street for a gain on the track, to a point, meaning if a stock type clutch kit will run me $500 and a performance will be over $1k, then the stock will do.
I haven't had a chace to remove the inspection plate and check it, but over the summer when IMA looked at it they said it was in "fair" condition. I didn't ask, but I'm pretty sure it's an original style clutch with the rubber insert.
Which brings me to the question, what do you folks recommend as a good replacement? Standard clutch kit from Paragon or one of the other shops? You Spec racer guys run any kind of sport clutch?
As I've mentioned in other recent posts, the car's main purpose it for DEs, but is still used for the street. I can sacrifice comfort on the street for a gain on the track, to a point, meaning if a stock type clutch kit will run me $500 and a performance will be over $1k, then the stock will do.
#2
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#3
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Stock Sachs Clutch Kit is recommended for your needs. Performance clutch packages may sound appealing (slightly quicker rev's, a snitch more power due to lower clutch mass - which I think is more theory than fact in a 944)) but only last 50% to 75% of a stock Sachs kit. Since the clutch job is about 75% labor and 25% parts for the replacement, why replace the clutch sooner than needed.
I regularly track my 944, and infrequently street drive it. I used a spring-centered OEM Sachs Kit (From Europarts) with great results. And with "normal" driving, I'll get more life out of Sachs than any "sport" kit.
Before you go after the clutch assembly and 16 to 18 hours of labor charges, check and bleed your clutch hydraulic system, and measure your clutch disc wear through the peep hole on the left side of the clutch/bell housing. If you still have disc left, and experience slip/chatter/shifting issues, your clutch hydraulics may need a bleed.
I'd recommend checking and bleeding the hydraulics ... and if needed, sticking with Sachs Spring-Center Kit.
I regularly track my 944, and infrequently street drive it. I used a spring-centered OEM Sachs Kit (From Europarts) with great results. And with "normal" driving, I'll get more life out of Sachs than any "sport" kit.
Before you go after the clutch assembly and 16 to 18 hours of labor charges, check and bleed your clutch hydraulic system, and measure your clutch disc wear through the peep hole on the left side of the clutch/bell housing. If you still have disc left, and experience slip/chatter/shifting issues, your clutch hydraulics may need a bleed.
I'd recommend checking and bleeding the hydraulics ... and if needed, sticking with Sachs Spring-Center Kit.
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Great! Thanks for the info. The stock kit it is then.
Anyone advise not taking this job on with jackstands in the driveway (I have no garage yet)? Or just not worth trying to DIY?
Anyone advise not taking this job on with jackstands in the driveway (I have no garage yet)? Or just not worth trying to DIY?
#5
Nordschleife Master
Spec all the way. I have the Spec stage III in my track car and love it. If you still drive your car on the street then go with the stage II.
Dano - which performance clutches are you talking about when you say they only last 50 to 75% as long as a Sachs?
Dano - which performance clutches are you talking about when you say they only last 50 to 75% as long as a Sachs?
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Originally Posted by Lemming
Spec all the way. I have the Spec stage III in my track car and love it. If you still drive your car on the street then go with the stage II.
#7
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by BlueDog944
Great! Thanks for the info. The stock kit it is then.
Anyone advise not taking this job on with jackstands in the driveway (I have no garage yet)? Or just not worth trying to DIY?
Anyone advise not taking this job on with jackstands in the driveway (I have no garage yet)? Or just not worth trying to DIY?
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#8
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I really like my Centerforce unit. They claim it has twice the clamping power. The pedal feel is superb, the car is very easy to drive. The one thing I did notice from going from rubber center to springs, is that you do get a fair bit more transaxle noise under decel. I'm running fresh Redline 75-90W too. For the clutch kit, I think www.performanceintl.com was the cheapest. You'll need to order a throw-out bearing though, the kit doesn't come w/ it.
Also, make sure to replace these items:
-Rear main seal
-Flywheel and Pressure plate bolts
-Pilot bearing
-Clutch fork bearings
-Cross-shaft (Optional, but mine had wear on it. At $40, why not)
-T.O.B guide tube.
Since you transaxle will be out, now will be a good time to repack the CVs, and if you wish, replace the bolts with allen heads. Changing the fluid will be a bit easier with tranny out. I suggest that you drain it while it is in the car, and fill it when it is out.
You will need these specialty tools if you plan to do it yourself:
-8mm triple-square socket. (also known as cheesehead)
-12mm triple-square socket.
NOTE: Don't cheap out on these, I bought the snap-on ones because i feel that the lisle tool is made of poor metal, and strips the bolts. I've done the tranny and clutch many times, and haven't stripped any bolts with the snap-on tools.
-17mm stubby combination wrench is nice to have for the torque tube to bellhousing bolts
-5mm allen extended allen socket (about 20cm long) with pivot ball head. Makes taking out the refrence sensors MUCH easier.
If you have any more questions, shoot me a PM, I'm fresh from about 3 clutch jobs.
Also, make sure to replace these items:
-Rear main seal
-Flywheel and Pressure plate bolts
-Pilot bearing
-Clutch fork bearings
-Cross-shaft (Optional, but mine had wear on it. At $40, why not)
-T.O.B guide tube.
Since you transaxle will be out, now will be a good time to repack the CVs, and if you wish, replace the bolts with allen heads. Changing the fluid will be a bit easier with tranny out. I suggest that you drain it while it is in the car, and fill it when it is out.
You will need these specialty tools if you plan to do it yourself:
-8mm triple-square socket. (also known as cheesehead)
-12mm triple-square socket.
NOTE: Don't cheap out on these, I bought the snap-on ones because i feel that the lisle tool is made of poor metal, and strips the bolts. I've done the tranny and clutch many times, and haven't stripped any bolts with the snap-on tools.
-17mm stubby combination wrench is nice to have for the torque tube to bellhousing bolts
-5mm allen extended allen socket (about 20cm long) with pivot ball head. Makes taking out the refrence sensors MUCH easier.
If you have any more questions, shoot me a PM, I'm fresh from about 3 clutch jobs.
#9
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I just sold a 944NA clutch kit to another rennlister for 555 shipped in the lower 48. If you are interested let me know. Includes disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing, clutch fork bearings x 2, pressure plate bolts and flywheel bolts x 9, guide tube, rear main seal, pilot bearing, and alignment tool. That is a stock sachs kit.
I think the turbo kit runs 725 shipped.
I think the turbo kit runs 725 shipped.
#10
Nordschleife Master
Originally Posted by BlueDog944
Have a link to the source for these clutches?
I actually got mine from Lindsey racing and not realizing at the time that Spec was actually in B'ham
#11
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Release lever shaft bearings (clutch fork) as well. Fork might even need a replacement. If you're pulling apart the car on a decent weekend, I might be able to give you a hand. Theres nothing more satisfying than getting a clutch done in a day (a LOONG day).
You may even want to do both cylinders 'while you're there'.
As far as 75% of a clutch job being labor, I think its more around 50/50. And from personal experience, the spring-centered clutches tend to have more driveline rebound (whatever you'd like to call it), and are generally louder and rougher shifting. Its my belief that for this reason Porsche put the rubber centers in, smooth shifting. The sport clutches are even worse but I guess make up for it in performance.
You may even want to do both cylinders 'while you're there'.
As far as 75% of a clutch job being labor, I think its more around 50/50. And from personal experience, the spring-centered clutches tend to have more driveline rebound (whatever you'd like to call it), and are generally louder and rougher shifting. Its my belief that for this reason Porsche put the rubber centers in, smooth shifting. The sport clutches are even worse but I guess make up for it in performance.
#12
Race Director
Picked up a Sachs spring clutch kit with throw out bearing for $419 shipped. Bought rear main seal, piliot bearing, flywheel and pressure plate bolts from paragon and I've made out pretty well
They are still on ebay for $389 9r $399 + shipping
They are still on ebay for $389 9r $399 + shipping
#13
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Originally Posted by Mike Markota
Picked up a Sachs spring clutch kit with throw out bearing for $419 shipped. Bought rear main seal, piliot bearing, flywheel and pressure plate bolts from paragon and I've made out pretty well
They are still on ebay for $389 9r $399 + shipping
They are still on ebay for $389 9r $399 + shipping
#15
Race Director
Yeah, you should the clutches they for other cars. It's like "stage 2 clutch with lightened flywheel : $320 shipped!" (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/F1-RA...temZ8034549245)
Wish ours were that cheap
edit: they also ship super fast....heres a link
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB..._BIN_Stores_IT
Wish ours were that cheap
edit: they also ship super fast....heres a link
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB..._BIN_Stores_IT