You put Rejex on, let it dry, buff it off...and let the car sit for 12 hours in the garage, so the Rejex coating bonds to the paint. That's what you meant, right!

Marc- Was the 911 ever clayed? If not, make it happen! World of difference afterwards! And claying the car is pretty easy to do...unlike the stone guard removal process!!

 

Andy, I beleive to get the polymers to bond, they need a thick coat, so being a detailer, I read that as put it on, let it dry for 12 hours, buff it off...

 

I read it as put it on, buff it out and let the car sit untouched/undriven for 12hrs. For best results do another coat after waiting 12hrs. Was working 4-5 months later on my rover with only 1 coat...

 

Yup, that's what the creator of Rejex said on the Concours forum. Buff off after it dries to a haze (like a normal wax), then, let the car sit in the shade to avoid the sun messing up the chemical bonding process.

I would think letting a thick coat dry on a car over night would just mean you have to kill yourself getting the product off!

 

Yup, Ive never heard of doing that with any kind of wax product.

 

Well, the one I've used like that, is the 4 star final finish, but it's not 12 hours, it's 15 minutes... let it sit without buffing off for 15 min, then take it off. drive as necessary... it looks great. it's awesome on darker colored cars.

 

I sent them an email a while back asking if it was okay to apply and leave on the vehicle for 12 hours and then buff off. The answer is below.

Per Kurt from CorrosionX,

"No harm at all. In fact, the longer curing time will allow RejeX last longer!"

I applied it to the van with the PC. Let it sit for 24 hours in the garage. Buffed it out with Microfiber towels. Came right off and looked spectacular. Zaino will tell you to do the same thing if you are not using their quickner.

This is my experience on a silver metallic clearcoated factory paint job. Worked well for me but then again that was me. Your results may vary. If any doubts then email CorrosionX. They answered all of my emails very quickly.

 

cool - good info ELLSSUU.

 

Not to play devil's advocate, but...if you put Rejex on top of clean paint, any extra that sits on top needing to be buffed off wouldn't be sitting on the paint. It would be sitting on top of the Rejex sitting on the paint. Doing nothing...no?

Wouldn't it be like putting on sun block #15, then putting on #10 over it? You wouldn't get #25!

I figure if the Rejex bottle says to put it on, buff off, then leave the car sitting for curing time, why leave it on longer?

 

Looks good, i didnt read the whole thread so i hope im not repeating anyone else, but put the stoneguard back on asap! I had the rear quarters painted on my car, and ran without stone guards for about 3 weeks, and the amount of rock chips on the rear quarter where the stoneguard normally is is rediculous! I cant believe how many rock chips happened in only a few weeks. Sucks!!!

-Jeff

 

Good point, Jeff. I have the stone guard replacements sitting in the garage. I haven't had the time to try and put them on. I should definately do it before I wax!

Any tips on putting the 3M film guards back on?

 

Valid question and I really don't know the answer.

But, perhaps it's more like the "extra that sits on top needing to be buffed off" is a protective layer for the layer that touches the paint letting it "bond" better with the paint job. Kind of like the clearcoat that protects layer of paint.

Don't know the answer. I only know what I've done.

 

I have no problem applying the Rejex, and leaving it on there for a day. As long as you say it's still easy to remove after it sits that long. Most waxes that sit like that are a PITA to get off!