More Help please - Car no start
#1
Race Car
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Does anything ever go right? I finally found the ground on the bell housing. I loosened the nut to see if it the wire would move when I pulled on it (to make sure it was the right wire). AFter I losened it I tried to start the car. I started and i turned ot off. I tried again and it started to crank but stopped. Just what I expected as the ground was not connected tightly. I tightened up the ground again to see if it would start and the car cranked perfectly...but now it doesn't strart at all!! It cranks very strongly and the starter is not disengaging like it was before (the reason I was trying ot clean up the ground) but that it all it does. It dies not turn over.
Any ideas? I don't think I did enough to ruin anything else but who knows with these cars. This is very frustrating.
Any ideas? I don't think I did enough to ruin anything else but who knows with these cars. This is very frustrating.
Last edited by jeeper31; 02-28-2006 at 11:27 PM.
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were u checking themn via clarks garage? the old and brittle reference sensor wires prolly got all funked up when u were moving wires around down there. clarks-garage says the readings should be as follows:
Speed Sensor
Terminals Resistance Reading
8 - 27 =====600 - 1600 ohms
8 - 23 =====> 1 M-ohm
Reference Sensor
Terminals Resistance Reading
25 - 26 =====600 - 1600 ohms
25 - 78 =====> 1 M-ohm
(8-27 are on top and closest to the firewall, 25-26 are on bottom closest to firewall, 8-23 are on top and on the two farthest sides of the plug, and 25-78 are on bottom on the farthest sides of the plug.)
if u are confused go to www.clarks-garage.com and go under S in the garage shop manuals for speed and reference sensors. theres a diagram and everything. check it out, this was the reason for my no start issues.
Speed Sensor
Terminals Resistance Reading
8 - 27 =====600 - 1600 ohms
8 - 23 =====> 1 M-ohm
Reference Sensor
Terminals Resistance Reading
25 - 26 =====600 - 1600 ohms
25 - 78 =====> 1 M-ohm
(8-27 are on top and closest to the firewall, 25-26 are on bottom closest to firewall, 8-23 are on top and on the two farthest sides of the plug, and 25-78 are on bottom on the farthest sides of the plug.)
if u are confused go to www.clarks-garage.com and go under S in the garage shop manuals for speed and reference sensors. theres a diagram and everything. check it out, this was the reason for my no start issues.
#6
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Originally Posted by barelyrunshalfthetime
were u checking themn via clarks garage? the old and brittle reference sensor wires prolly got all funked up when u were moving wires around down there. clarks-garage says the readings should be as follows:
Speed Sensor
Terminals Resistance Reading
8 - 27 =====600 - 1600 ohms
8 - 23 =====> 1 M-ohm
Reference Sensor
Terminals Resistance Reading
25 - 26 =====600 - 1600 ohms
25 - 78 =====> 1 M-ohm
(8-27 are on top and closest to the firewall, 25-26 are on bottom closest to firewall, 8-23 are on top and on the two farthest sides of the plug, and 25-78 are on bottom on the farthest sides of the plug.)
if u are confused go to www.clarks-garage.com and go under S in the garage shop manuals for speed and reference sensors. theres a diagram and everything. check it out, this was the reason for my no start issues.
Speed Sensor
Terminals Resistance Reading
8 - 27 =====600 - 1600 ohms
8 - 23 =====> 1 M-ohm
Reference Sensor
Terminals Resistance Reading
25 - 26 =====600 - 1600 ohms
25 - 78 =====> 1 M-ohm
(8-27 are on top and closest to the firewall, 25-26 are on bottom closest to firewall, 8-23 are on top and on the two farthest sides of the plug, and 25-78 are on bottom on the farthest sides of the plug.)
if u are confused go to www.clarks-garage.com and go under S in the garage shop manuals for speed and reference sensors. theres a diagram and everything. check it out, this was the reason for my no start issues.
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#7
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Looking at the factory manual, it says thats the speed sender plug.
Check manual 1A, it is for the S and S2 engine. Its chapter 24/28 page 24. Towards the bottom.
Check manual 1A, it is for the S and S2 engine. Its chapter 24/28 page 24. Towards the bottom.
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#9
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Factory Service Manual Quote:
CAUTION! NEVER START ENGINE AS LONG AS THE GROUND BETWEEN THE BODY AND THE ENGINE IS DISCONNECTED! THIS WOULD DESTROY THE CONTROL UNIT IMMEDIATELY!
What are the chances this is what I did? ..... Please be gentle.
CAUTION! NEVER START ENGINE AS LONG AS THE GROUND BETWEEN THE BODY AND THE ENGINE IS DISCONNECTED! THIS WOULD DESTROY THE CONTROL UNIT IMMEDIATELY!
What are the chances this is what I did? ..... Please be gentle.
#10
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I got your PM on the dme. I don't have one. But.... you can find out if that is your problem. Find one of the links for the factory shop manuals. On the first few pages, it gives the points to check on the dme plug. You will be able to tell if you are getting power to the dme. One other thing you might try...cranking it without having it grounded out, you could have made the dme relay lock. Take it out and shake it, and make sure it doesne't rattle any. On the 16V cars, the ingition side is not in the dme, is in the little module in behind the drives side head light. You need to see if you are not getting fire, or if you are not getting injector single. Checking the injector single is easy, have someone crank the car, and see if you can hear the injectors clicking. Also, check for spark. One more thing, make sure you have the crank sensor plugged in good. You were in there, near the plug doing some work. I had a car come in last week that they could not get it to start. It cranked a couple of times, but would not fire again after it was cut off. They had just replaced the line for the clutch. Starting checking things out, had no injector or spark single. Checked the plug, and they had hit it just enough that it would not make good contact. Plugged it back up, car runs perfect. If you are not getting injector single, then I would worry some. Also, there is a resistor pack for the injectors right next to the cruise servo. We have seen some cars lately that the plug got a little nasty over the years and stopped making good contact. A good cleaning with contact cleaner has been taking care of the problem, then a little shot of WD-40 to keep moisture away/
Before you start buying a dme, please make sure you are not getting injector single. IF you are, don't buy another dme till you replace the ingition control module behind the drivers side headlight. If you need more help, I will PM you my phone#
Before you start buying a dme, please make sure you are not getting injector single. IF you are, don't buy another dme till you replace the ingition control module behind the drivers side headlight. If you need more help, I will PM you my phone#
#11
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Car still not starting. This is what I have checked. I have spark, jumpered DME relay and fuel pump is working. Have fuel at fuel rail, fuses are good. SPeed/crank reference sensor (only have one and don't know which it is) reads 65.6 ohms (don't know if I am using multimeter right) have jjggled wires. I think the injectors are firing, I am getting really frustarted. Any help is much appreciated.
Last edited by jeeper31; 02-19-2006 at 08:47 AM.
#13
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Come on guy, you've been here long enough. GO to clark's garage, and FOLLOW the diagnostic sequences, STEP BY STEP. THERE IS no other way to figure it out. Everything else, is just shooting in the dark.......come on! Logical dianostics need to be done, IN some reasonable order.
If you don't know HOW to use these tools, then ask the appropriate question regarding THAT. "I have spark"..........really, how did you test this? 65.6 Ohms? What scale was your meter on? Read the manual with it. "I think the injectors are firing"..... you MUST do better than this, or your screwed. Sorry I'm sounding a little hard on ya, butt..........for gods sake man, get real. You have any manuals, or even a Haynes manual for these cars? Ya ever look at it? You "just found" the bell housing ground?
If you don't know HOW to use these tools, then ask the appropriate question regarding THAT. "I have spark"..........really, how did you test this? 65.6 Ohms? What scale was your meter on? Read the manual with it. "I think the injectors are firing"..... you MUST do better than this, or your screwed. Sorry I'm sounding a little hard on ya, butt..........for gods sake man, get real. You have any manuals, or even a Haynes manual for these cars? Ya ever look at it? You "just found" the bell housing ground?
#14
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Fixed fuel rail, changed Fuel pressure regular, fuel pressure damper, cleaned and reinstalled fuel injectors and still didn't start. Checked fuel pressure and it is 52 psi (ok for 16v engine). Presure at teh rail after 30 minutes is 46 psi. I have power to the injector wires on one side, nothing on the other side. I used a noid light and get no light on the injuector wires when the ingine is cranked. The balast resistors are getting power. I have spark, the fuses are ok and there is power going to the ignition pack by the front drives light. I am gettig really frustrated now. Help please.