badcoupe

anyone ever loop their hoses and run without power assist. It's kinda common in the hot rod world, wasn't sure if anyone ever tried it here. Got a few leaks, one blows on the crosover pipe and smokes a little. I'll probably get a rennbay kit and overhaul the one on my parts car sometime but till then the smoking is driving me nuts!

tom cooper

The ratios with the power steering unit are very different than a manual rack. It will just be too heavy at low speeds and vague at higher speeds. I would just get a manual rack and junk the power steering if you want a manual rack. Otherwise, I'd rebuild the rack, PS pump, and replace the tie rods and ends while you were at it .. and hoses if you are keeping the power steering.

I replaced my PS set up recently with a manual rack. It now steers with scalpel like precision (I also rebuilt the entire front end so I am sure that helped. Manual rack, new tie rods and ends, all new bushings, new struts, etc).

I do have to say that it is a workout just tooling around town. If all I was going to do was drive it to the store and back, I would definitely stick to the power steering setup. It is worth it, though, if you are going to be doing "fun" driving.

Good luck,
Tom

P.S. Just an FYI, if you go with a manual rack, you need to get a longer steering linkage. The power steering rack is taller than the manual rack, and thus the power steering linkage will be too short. Seach the archives as there is a lot of discussion on this topic.

tifosiman

I completely agree with what Tom said above.

Travis - sflraver

I too agree with getting a Manual if you want manual steering.

If you did want to jump the rack the way to do it and have the least amount of fluid resistance would be to do the following.

Remove the hard jumper lines from the body of the rack. Make up a flexible hose with banjo fittings on each end. Jump the two inlets on the rack body together with as much fluid in the rack and jumper line as you can. Plug the 4 banjo connections on the aluminum housing.

By doing this you are not forcing the fluid through the gear unit which makes up quite a bit of extra resistance. The fluid in the rack body will just be exchanging sides as you steer. It would give a small dampening effect but that is it.

Chris_924s

Drive an early 944 and make up your mind first before splaying out the cash and labor.

I prefer manual steering. period .

badcoupe

thanks for the tips guys. I wanna stick with power, my 84 didn't have it but I was 15 when I had it too so it's been awhile since I've drove one without. I just wanna runt he pump dry I'm tired of the leak in the interim. My 85 parts car has power too so I'll probably rebuild that rack. I've just got too much goin on!

tom cooper

and these 944 projects never seem to end... As soon as I get one close to finished, I lose my mind temporarily and get another one and start all over again....

theedge

Ive got my power stuff deleted, the gear tower sealed, and a crossover hose between the two sides. Havent driven with it, but I had no problems with the power setup with the belt removed. Felt fine at higher speeds, nothing odd. Im pretty sure ill like it.