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Need new headlights - H4, or standard sealed beam?

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Old 01-15-2006, 12:13 AM
  #31  
flosho
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Has anyone tried the h4 bulbs on ebay? They seem a little ricer-ish however they come with angel eyes which is cool IMO.
Old 01-15-2006, 12:17 AM
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Rice.
Old 01-15-2006, 12:22 AM
  #33  
ELLSSUU
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Originally Posted by cjeckert
First one is straight on low beam, second low beam, third high beam. I basically fallowed the schematic of Icesharks lighting kit. 8 gage wire to a pair of Hella relays that then feed into new light sockets via 10 gage wire, you then use the old connector on the driver side as the signal for the relays. One relay for high beams one for low beams. Then I ran a secondary ground using 8 gage from the alternator mount to the grounding bolt location on the drivers side. I had previously upgraded the lenses to the hella kits i posted earlyer and the bulbs i have now are (pictured) sylvania silverstar 60-55 the hella 80-100 bulbs i used to have in it were rediculously bright although not quite as "crisp" as these silverstars. I forgot to mention the 8 gage wire that feeds the relays positive voltige comes right off the antenator, this is very nice because it praticly eliminates voltige drop when you turn the lights on.
Wow, looks like a nice improvement. Can you draw a schematic and a parts list for us that know nothing about common car electricity? I'd really like to replicate that before long.
Old 01-15-2006, 12:28 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by ELLSSUU
Wow, looks like a nice improvement. Can you draw a schematic and a parts list for us that know nothing about common car electricity? I'd really like to replicate that before long.
That would be a grea reference!
Old 01-15-2006, 12:29 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by streckfu's951
Rice.

The angel eyes or just the lights, I dont see how the lights could be rice?
Old 01-15-2006, 12:29 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by flosho
Has anyone tried the h4 bulbs on ebay? They seem a little ricer-ish however they come with angel eyes which is cool IMO.
I've tried some ebay H4 stuff in the past -- useless and down right hazardous. Avoid them.

Originally Posted by cjeckert
First one is straight on low beam, second low beam, third high beam. I basically fallowed the schematic of Icesharks lighting kit. 8 gage wire to a pair of Hella relays that then feed into new light sockets via 10 gage wire, you then use the old connector on the driver side as the signal for the relays. <snip>
I know nothing about electrical wires -- why 10 gauge to the sockets? (Rather than 8 gauge all around.)

Originally Posted by ELLSSUU
Wow, looks like a nice improvement. Can you draw a schematic and a parts list for us that know nothing about common car electricity? I'd really like to replicate that before long.
Check out Bruce Arnn's website (I think this page is still a work in progress): http://arnnworx.com/lighting.htm
Old 01-15-2006, 12:34 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by streckfu's951
Wiring.
You use two 30 amp relays, a direct power wire from a battery connection, and the existing wiring to the headlight to act as a triggger for the relays.

I started a description but then found a simple diagram on the net. Look at this link. A picture is worth a thousand words. The only real difference from what I did and what I think the Ice Shark kit does is to use a one 30 amp fuse at the main power connection instead of the 2 20's. I also put 4 seperate fuses at the relays going to the seperate headlights. The Ice Shark kit uses very heavy guage wire for many parts. I found 10 AWG for the main power wire and 12 AWG for the rest to be sufficient for my needs and much easier to work with.

http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/headlight-simple.htm
Old 01-15-2006, 12:40 AM
  #38  
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The main reason for such a large guage wire is to aviod voltige drop at all cost, the larger the wire the less resistence and reduced resistence means less voltige drop. In fact iceshark used a single 4 guage wire to power both relays where i used two 8guage wires one for each relay and I actually ran 8gauge to the high beams and 10 guage to the low beams. Also i have a 30 amp fuse before each relay. I will draw up a shematic of what i did when i get back to syracuse tomarro.
Old 01-15-2006, 01:51 AM
  #39  
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Forgive my electrical ignorance, but where does one source 4/8/10 gauge wire and connectors?
Old 01-15-2006, 02:24 AM
  #40  
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I found the best place was my local welding supply shop for the cable and connectors
Old 01-15-2006, 10:37 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by cjeckert
The main reason for such a large guage wire is to aviod voltige drop at all cost, the larger the wire the less resistence and reduced resistence means less voltige drop. In fact iceshark used a single 4 guage wire to power both relays where i used two 8guage wires one for each relay and I actually ran 8gauge to the high beams and 10 guage to the low beams. Also i have a 30 amp fuse before each relay. I will draw up a shematic of what i did when i get back to syracuse tomarro.
Thank you. It's on my to do list since the car may actually get driven at night.
Old 01-15-2006, 10:47 AM
  #42  
ibkevin
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Andy, Check this , these have been suggested here before. I never herd how well they worked but price is right.

Old 01-15-2006, 12:00 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by ibkevin
Andy, Check this , these have been suggested here before. I never herd how well they worked but price is right.

Those look to be snow mobile headlights or something! I'll stick to the normal road H4 Hellas or the like. Compared to my old, sealed beam units that dont work, ANY new headlights will be a major improvement!

Old 01-15-2006, 12:05 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by dme
You use two 30 amp relays, a direct power wire from a battery connection, and the existing wiring to the headlight to act as a triggger for the relays.

I started a description but then found a simple diagram on the net. Look at this link. A picture is worth a thousand words. The only real difference from what I did and what I think the Ice Shark kit does is to use a one 30 amp fuse at the main power connection instead of the 2 20's. I also put 4 seperate fuses at the relays going to the seperate headlights. The Ice Shark kit uses very heavy guage wire for many parts. I found 10 AWG for the main power wire and 12 AWG for the rest to be sufficient for my needs and much easier to work with.

http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/headlight-simple.htm

Thanks!
Old 01-15-2006, 12:37 PM
  #45  
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When you have 500+ watts and it gets the proper current, people will line up and follow you on a dark night on the highway.


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