Looking for cylinder honing tool.
01-05-2006, 02:28 PM
#16
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Yes,
I know all about the dangers of getting the cylinders out of round. However, I should have been a bit more clear. I only mean to de-glaze the cylinders, not take any meat out. The Aluminum/Silicon paste with the pads is what is most important is only a final step to polish the cylinders. I have very light wear marks in my cylinders and I don't want to bolt the motor back together without knowing the cylinders are smooth. I do use a bore scope so I would no if I took too much out. But, it seems no one has the needed tool here so I will have to search else where.
And by the way, to those non-believers about the at home hone/polish of our motors. Do a search on the 951 specific forum and you will see extensive evidence that supports successful at home honing. I wouldn't try it if it had not already been done.
I know all about the dangers of getting the cylinders out of round. However, I should have been a bit more clear. I only mean to de-glaze the cylinders, not take any meat out. The Aluminum/Silicon paste with the pads is what is most important is only a final step to polish the cylinders. I have very light wear marks in my cylinders and I don't want to bolt the motor back together without knowing the cylinders are smooth. I do use a bore scope so I would no if I took too much out. But, it seems no one has the needed tool here so I will have to search else where.
And by the way, to those non-believers about the at home hone/polish of our motors. Do a search on the 951 specific forum and you will see extensive evidence that supports successful at home honing. I wouldn't try it if it had not already been done.
01-05-2006, 04:24 PM
#17
Race Car
What the original poster wants to do, is simply to etch the cylinder walls to allow new rings to seat.
If the cylinder wear is acceptable, and within factory specs, then there is no reason why this can't be done. Etching the walls takes off a virtually immeasurable amount of material, but will make a huge difference in the longevity of the rebuilt engine. All this argument that you can't do it is pointless, because you can. For the most part, the best solution is to take it to a machine shop and have them do it. However, having the tools available at home for us DIY'ers would be nice option. Around here it costs $40/hole to have the cylinders etched, and that is very reasonable. For that costs I would have a shop do it. However, I have heard of some shops charging $100/hole, in which case a DIY solution is far more reasonable.
If the cylinder wear is acceptable, and within factory specs, then there is no reason why this can't be done. Etching the walls takes off a virtually immeasurable amount of material, but will make a huge difference in the longevity of the rebuilt engine. All this argument that you can't do it is pointless, because you can. For the most part, the best solution is to take it to a machine shop and have them do it. However, having the tools available at home for us DIY'ers would be nice option. Around here it costs $40/hole to have the cylinders etched, and that is very reasonable. For that costs I would have a shop do it. However, I have heard of some shops charging $100/hole, in which case a DIY solution is far more reasonable.
01-06-2006, 05:07 AM
#19
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The amount of mis-information on this subject astounds me!!!
Well, Sunnen will send you a catalog outlining each step and what to buy. The factory manuals outline these steps too.
Simply put, only hone if your cyls are out of round, badly scored or in some way damaged.
You will have to go oversized on the piston$$ if you HONE.
You can't hone with a drill-rig and get acceptable results. Iron block,yes , aluminum bores, no. A sunnen machine has to be used. (by someone who knows how to use it)
Final hone rocks are 600 grit.
If the "machinist" starts talking about silicone coatings RUN.
Silicone is for fake *****. Alusil in this application is not a coating. Alcoa (sp) invented it. Porsche, MB and others use(d) this thechnology.
The Sunnen silicon compound paste (Part# AN-30) is not a polish. It actually dulls the finished cylwalls. IE, it gives them a mat finish. Only a very small amount of metal is removed. Just enough so the silicon particles stand "proud".
A very careful person and someone who knowes what he's doing CAN buff the cyl walls with the silicon paste with a drill rig and the proper felt pads and pressure. Oh yeah and proper amount of time. You can over do this too.
If the bores are round, within wear specs and not scored or scuffed in excess. ( a slight amount is normal). You can and probably should just buff the bores so you will get good ring seating and be done with it. I've heard of folks not buffing just putting rings in a good bore with good results also. I have also heard of people buffing with a scotchbrite pad prior to a re-ring.
Bottom line is to get a machinist to do a hone job (if needed) that is familar with the process and has done it before. Ask around at some Porsche and or Mercedes Benz repair shops to find someone who can do this work. HTH !
GOSANE :^)
Well, Sunnen will send you a catalog outlining each step and what to buy. The factory manuals outline these steps too.
Simply put, only hone if your cyls are out of round, badly scored or in some way damaged.
You will have to go oversized on the piston$$ if you HONE.
You can't hone with a drill-rig and get acceptable results. Iron block,yes , aluminum bores, no. A sunnen machine has to be used. (by someone who knows how to use it)
Final hone rocks are 600 grit.
If the "machinist" starts talking about silicone coatings RUN.
Silicone is for fake *****. Alusil in this application is not a coating. Alcoa (sp) invented it. Porsche, MB and others use(d) this thechnology.
The Sunnen silicon compound paste (Part# AN-30) is not a polish. It actually dulls the finished cylwalls. IE, it gives them a mat finish. Only a very small amount of metal is removed. Just enough so the silicon particles stand "proud".
A very careful person and someone who knowes what he's doing CAN buff the cyl walls with the silicon paste with a drill rig and the proper felt pads and pressure. Oh yeah and proper amount of time. You can over do this too.
If the bores are round, within wear specs and not scored or scuffed in excess. ( a slight amount is normal). You can and probably should just buff the bores so you will get good ring seating and be done with it. I've heard of folks not buffing just putting rings in a good bore with good results also. I have also heard of people buffing with a scotchbrite pad prior to a re-ring.
Bottom line is to get a machinist to do a hone job (if needed) that is familar with the process and has done it before. Ask around at some Porsche and or Mercedes Benz repair shops to find someone who can do this work. HTH !
GOSANE :^)
01-06-2006, 09:22 AM
#20
Rennlist Member
wow- when i heard HONE i thought 350 chevy on the engine stand w/ the ball hone from autozone going to town on the aluminum block. I could see if you had the right "hone" and polish to buff it correctly how it would help. The whole thing just scares me, i just thought of the Rock honing a block when you posted. You learn something every day.
