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Suspension questions, etc.....

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Old 12-29-2005 | 09:45 PM
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Question Suspension questions, etc.....

I am considering replacing my rear shocks and front struts. The only events that I will do with the car will be SCCA Autocross a few times a year. I will want to keep the car as unmolested as possible, but have a slight upgrade to suspension without too much adverse effect to ride quality, and possibly M030 968 front bar. I had koni sports all the way around on my 951, it was lowered 1.5-2", m030 968 sway bar, 250# springs and it was very stiff for anything more than local use, also required a low saddle jack to get under the car, don't want these headaches with this car, its just too nice. I know that koni inserts are an option, (cut, drill...) but what about the coil over kit with adjustable perches, since I am cutting the strut housing anyway if I go this route? If I don't change the ride level by more than 1/2 inch will this move me out of stock class (SCCA)? Is there a real advantage with going with the koni sports over the stock boge in the rear? I don't think the fronts need to be replaced[?], but the rears are soft. Anyone have any thing to compare fresh stock strut assemblies and rear shocks with the modified koni's?

I have bought front rotors and will upgrade the pads while there. I may also replace the seals at the back of the balance shafts, the two seals on the AOS and possibly the Oil pan gasket and oil level sensor seal. They all appear to be leaking some after 15 years. Cap, rotor and fuel filter are also on my shelf for replacement. Anything else anyone can think of? The car really has no problems, just preventative maintenance items and a winter project to keep me busy in the afternoons and weekends for a few weeks. I will probably take a peak at the Variocam pads and cam gears while doing this project, and replace the valve cover gaskets. Belts are not due for another 35K and there do not appear to be any leaks (oil or water) from the front of the engine.

Oh yeah, anyone done T-belt and water pump on 2000 Honda Odyssey? Anyone have service manual for it? I have to get this done on my wife's van soon. I am a trained mechanic, been a few years since I wrenched for a living. I Have done belts on accords, and P-cars (complete engine builds, suspension, etc on 944, 44S, S2 and limited 968 wrenching), but not the V6 VTec. It is such a dependable car, but it is time for the 105K service.

Sorry for the long post, thanks in advance.
Old 12-30-2005 | 01:27 AM
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Originally Posted by jlturpin
I am considering replacing my rear shocks and front struts. The only events that I will do with the car will be SCCA Autocross a few times a year. I will want to keep the car as unmolested as possible, but have a slight upgrade to suspension without too much adverse effect to ride quality, and possibly M030 968 front bar. I had koni sports all the way around on my 951, it was lowered 1.5-2", m030 968 sway bar, 250# springs and it was very stiff for anything more than local use, also required a low saddle jack to get under the car, don't want these headaches with this car, its just too nice. I know that koni inserts are an option, (cut, drill...) but what about the coil over kit with adjustable perches, since I am cutting the strut housing anyway if I go this route? If I don't change the ride level by more than 1/2 inch will this move me out of stock class (SCCA)? Is there a real advantage with going with the koni sports over the stock boge in the rear? I don't think the fronts need to be replaced[?], but the rears are soft. Anyone have any thing to compare fresh stock strut assemblies and rear shocks with the modified koni's?
Best option for staying in stock is to make the car full M030 spec - legality varies regionally (due to rear sway change), but unless you are competitive nationally, shouldn't be a problem. The front strut and spring rules are a bit strange when it comes to coil-over allowances... you can have them, but they are supposed to be fixed in the stock location. This kind of defeats the purpose, but, kind of allows for a stock unit to be used since the "adjustments" within stock tolerances are open. Easy way to upgrade and not worry about getting ousted from BS is to simply do Koni Sports and the front bar (though, the 26.8mm bar is just fine in most cases since you may be using a 16mm rear). Top cars is BS that you'll usually run in to are the E36 M3, E46 330 ZHP and 964 - good luck!

I have bought front rotors and will upgrade the pads while there. I may also replace the seals at the back of the balance shafts, the two seals on the AOS and possibly the Oil pan gasket and oil level sensor seal. They all appear to be leaking some after 15 years. Cap, rotor and fuel filter are also on my shelf for replacement. Anything else anyone can think of? The car really has no problems, just preventative maintenance items and a winter project to keep me busy in the afternoons and weekends for a few weeks. I will probably take a peak at the Variocam pads and cam gears while doing this project, and replace the valve cover gaskets. Belts are not due for another 35K and there do not appear to be any leaks (oil or water) from the front of the engine.
If you're doing the pan gasket, might as well do the rod bearings... not much more work. Definitely do the cam chain pads/tensioner check. Not a bad idea to get the fuel injectors properly serviced as well - usually can find local or mail order places for $20-25/each. Also, if you're doing the pan gasket and the suspension, have a look at all of the suspension bushings/bearings. Since you'll likely be due for an alignment, now's the time to get the little bits taken care of (sway bushings, ball joints, tie rods, strut mounts, wheel bearings, etc)

Good Luck!
Old 12-30-2005 | 01:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Skip
Top cars is BS that you'll usually run in to are the E36 M3, E46 330 ZHP and 964 - good luck!
i just had a discussion on bimmerforums about this, and the thought was that the 968 and RX-8 were the cars to have, as almost all the top ten places at nationals this year was one of those two cars. i thought the M3 was up there, too, but i guess not.

anyway, back on topic......
Old 12-30-2005 | 02:03 AM
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Don't get me wrong - the 968 is very competitive in BS, again... I was only pointing out who you have to worry about - and, I did miss the RX-8... they're not very popular in my region, but they did do quite well this year nationally. I think a well prepared M3 would be very hard to beat... in fact, we had a 968 hot shoe change to the M3 a few years ago because he just couldn't keep the pace (before the S2K dominated BS which was always know to be misclassified but only recently changed). Regionally, we are dominated by RSA's and E36 M3's in BS.
Old 12-30-2005 | 02:30 AM
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If you do decide to go M030, here's a list of parts: http://www.weissach.net/968_M030-Option.html

Karl.
Old 12-30-2005 | 12:17 PM
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Thanks for all that responded. As far as upgrading to M030, unless I can find an entire M030 setup as a package (somewhat cheap), I need to just sell my car and buy an M030 968. I will probably just do the rear shocks for now, front struts still feel good, and I don't want to mess up what Porsche put together, unless I do an entire tested setup. Oh yeah, And the other maintenance items listed above.

The main goal is to maintain the car as close to stock as possible since it is such a nice example.

I do like the E36 M3, and have co-drove one several times. I would LOVE to get a nice example of an E36, 5spd SEDAN. I think that the RX 8 took 8 of the top 10 of BS and the 968 came in second. I just had another friend sell his E36 M3, and purchase an RX-8. He wants to be competitive on a national level. I just enjoy the people at the Autocross and have a good time. I am not out there to beat the car up.



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