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Why do I need the Flywheel lock?

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Old 12-19-2005, 07:34 PM
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951North
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Question Why do I need the Flywheel lock?

and why do I need to remove the crankshaft sprocket to replace timing/balance belts, as per Clark's Garage Proceedure.

Seem like this is not neccessary if I'm just doing belts and rollers.

Car is 1987 944 turbo

Jason.
Old 12-19-2005, 07:43 PM
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PCinDC
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You don't need to remove the crank gear if you are just doing belts, but its best to lock the flywheel if you are removing belts to ensure that when you reinstall you don't accidentally move the gear and end up a tooth or two off, which is not hard to do.

If you need to get at the waterpump, which is a great 'while you are in there' thing to do while you have the belts and rollers off, you have to remove the crank pulley to facilitate the removal of the rear belt cover. If you aren't tackling your water pump - and unless you know yours was recently replaced its not a bad idea - you don't have to remove the gear but its still recommended to lock the flywheel.

HTH
Old 12-19-2005, 08:41 PM
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MM951
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I got away without using it, but Paul has great advice
Old 12-20-2005, 09:10 AM
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H2
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Keeps you from cussing when the cam shaft/gears move. Maybe can save your engine if you're not careful. I figure it's a good investment. If I ever sell my car, I'll sell the tool and recoup most of my money.

Harvey
Old 12-20-2005, 10:47 AM
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Oddjob
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Originally Posted by 951North
and why do I need to remove the crankshaft sprocket to replace timing/balance belts, as per Clark's Garage Proceedure.

Seem like this is not neccessary if I'm just doing belts and rollers.

Car is 1987 944 turbo

Jason.
You dont absolutely have to remove the crank pulley/sprockets when only replacing belts. You will have to squeeze the cam belt past the B/S crank sprocket to get it on, and that might be why Clark's recommended to pull the sprockets off. But I think thats more work than is necessary.

When the engine is at TDC, it really wont want to move that easily. If youre really concerned about it moving, leave it in gear and set the parking brake, and the drive train will remain reasonbly stationary. And if for some reason the crank does move off TDC, there are reference marks on the flywheel to check/make sure its at TDC when reinstalling the cam belt.
Old 12-20-2005, 10:49 AM
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Get one - you'll need it eventually.
Old 12-20-2005, 01:31 PM
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Tom R.
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when my wrench did the job on my S2 and my brothers NAs he told me he didnt remove the starter to get the lock in. he took out the radiator to get at everything from the front with ease and then lined everything up at TDC using the marks.

he also reported that compresion was very good because it was a ***** to spin.
Old 12-20-2005, 05:06 PM
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You don't have to take off the back cover to do a water pump. You can cut the back cover in half and just remove the top part. Don't even have to take the balance shaft pulleys off. I stick two large screw drivers between the flywheel teeth and the bell housing -- one on each side.
Old 12-20-2005, 05:37 PM
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I used the screwdriver trick the SoCal mentioned the first time around. Worked well enough I suppose. The actual lock was way easier/better. Nice and cheap at Paragon, or can be homemade if you have access to some steel and a welder. I made my first one (during double overtime no less ).
Old 12-21-2005, 04:05 PM
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PCinDC
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Originally Posted by SoCal Driver
You don't have to take off the back cover to do a water pump. You can cut the back cover in half and just remove the top part. Don't even have to take the balance shaft pulleys off. I stick two large screw drivers between the flywheel teeth and the bell housing -- one on each side.
Of course! What was I thinking? Why do it right when you can just destroy a part ? Remind me to never let you work on my car!!

Patience pays with these cars. It might seem unneccessary, but the peace of mind knowing full well that your motor is timed properly is worth the added effort.
Old 12-21-2005, 09:19 PM
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Granite 944
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Originally Posted by 951North
and why do I need to remove the crankshaft sprocket to replace timing/balance belts, as per Clark's Garage Proceedure.

Seem like this is not neccessary if I'm just doing belts and rollers.

Car is 1987 944 turbo

Jason.
I don't think you REALLY have to, but, I'm SURE, that the whole idea behind it, is to prevent damage to the OHH, so important belts on these cars (and they CAN be damaged doing it, if not very carefully done). I've changed the belts without removing that crank sprocket also. Butt.....you can then fall into the category, shortly thereafter of, "I sure wished I had removed that cranksprocket, and replaced that darn crankseal and O-ring.....while I was there", and, as a matter of fact, the entire front engine seal kit.

Have a good time. We all do.... the first time! No big deal. Eventually, if ya keep the car long enough, and keep doing your own work, you WILL want and Need that flywheel lock.

Oh yeah. Keep a CLOSE eye on ALL those timing index marks as you do this, ESPECIALLY, if you DON'T use the flywheel lock. Yep, it can still be done.
Old 12-22-2005, 12:23 AM
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When i first did the belts on my car, i accidently left the car in 1st gear. I couldn't rotate the crank more than a few degrees, then it would lock up.

I thought i screwed up and got nervous, that is untill i got in the car and saw it in gear.

I never tried this, but wouldn't this work?
Old 12-22-2005, 09:04 AM
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pull the pulleys off and put a new crank seal in there. I did my front seals awhile back and never did the balance shafts...guess which ones leaked.



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