Clutch + housing come off to mount engine on stand i assume?
#1
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Well, i have everything disconnected and am about to lower the engine to the floor and i have a question as to how it is supposed to be mounted on a stand. do i have to remove the clutch housing and clutch to be able to put it on the stand? or do people just take off the clutch housing, and use those bolts/holes for a stand adapter? i decided winter would be the best time to get intimate with my car and make sure she gets all the TLC necessary before spring
thanks in advance
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yep, you're right. you need to use the bellhousing bolt holes to botl the engine stand to the engine with anyway
you'll need to take the refference/speed sensor bracket off and possibly th eflywheel too
you'll need to take the refference/speed sensor bracket off and possibly th eflywheel too
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i took off the clutch housing(gotto take off the clutch fork pin)then take off the perssure plate bolts(8mm 12 point internal/cheeshead),then the flywheel(12mm 12 point internal/cheesehead).as for attaching to the engine stand you can use the 2 long bolts from the clutch housing and the other 2 can be from the cross-member.as a side note,if you end up stripping the pressure plate bolts use a 5/16 drill bit.
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Just a little thought here, if your gonna be a taking the front crank pulley off, ya might wanna put the flywheel lock on, and break that bolt loose before you remove the engine from the car, or while bellhousing is still on the ground. Unless, of course, you do have a really, really good air impact wrench, that can do it whilst on the stand.
I think I've always used the bolts that hold the engine lower support on the car, to bolt it to the stand. Not sure, I've got plenty of 'em around here, and one on a stand now....for months.
Set the engine up at TDC, with all marks aligned before you get to stripping things down to far. Its just easier.
I think I've always used the bolts that hold the engine lower support on the car, to bolt it to the stand. Not sure, I've got plenty of 'em around here, and one on a stand now....for months.
Set the engine up at TDC, with all marks aligned before you get to stripping things down to far. Its just easier.
#6
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ok, thanks for the advice, our stand has pretty long fingers that the bolts need to go through, i dont think the ones off the cross member will are long enough, i need at least 4 1/2" they might be close, either way i can always buy different ones, wont be able to dig in on it again til sunday though
i havent messed with it today but it should be fairly smooth sailing, the cars been apart before when under the ownership of the PO and so far, everything has came out fine. *knock on wood*
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#7
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well, bellhousing bolts and x-member bolts are both too short for our stand. x-member ones poke through just about 1/4" so i figure ill go buy some new ones before cutting up the engine stand to make it fit with shorter ones
what a pain... i go to this midstate bolt and screw place, has every size bolt you can think of. have them match it up, they bring me 4 bolts 4 3/4" long. perfect, he starts writing up the slip.... 33$ for 4 bolts... are you kiddin me?! screw that, ill take a hacksaw to our stand and shorten the fingers before i spend $33 on bolts that i only need temporarily.
so needless to say, my engine is still sitting on the floor
what a pain... i go to this midstate bolt and screw place, has every size bolt you can think of. have them match it up, they bring me 4 bolts 4 3/4" long. perfect, he starts writing up the slip.... 33$ for 4 bolts... are you kiddin me?! screw that, ill take a hacksaw to our stand and shorten the fingers before i spend $33 on bolts that i only need temporarily.
so needless to say, my engine is still sitting on the floor
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