Rant: Lindsey Racing SS fuel lines
#1
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Rant: Lindsey Racing SS fuel lines
Well, I ordered a set of these way back when and finally was going to install them today. I noted the following (rather annoying) things about them:
(1) The lines are juuuuust long enough to reach about 2/3 of the way down the little "tunnel" between the fenderwell and the plastic fender liner, necessitating the removal of the entire fender liner to splice into the factory lines. Would it REALLY have killed them to add another 4"-6" to each of the lines so that you could make the connection below the fender liner and not have to remove it? Sheesh!
(2) Why in the name of God are the ends where they're supposed to splice into the existing hard lines THREADED?!?! The hard lines can be cut and possibly flared, but there's nothin' threaded about 'em and the SS lines came with no threaded connection to place on the cut hard lines. Okay, so one did, but the other did not. And of course they don't bother telling you this before you buy 'em. Or that you'll need a flaring tool.
So that's my rant. After an hour's worth of getting filthy removing the fender liner and determining that this wasn't going to happen today, I had to put 'em back in the box and wait for another day and a flaring tool (and threaded connection for the supply line) to show up. Guess I'm calling Lindsey tomorrow with a great big "WTF?!?!"
The lines sure do look nice though. Shame they're such a pain in the *** to install and NOT an easy "bolt-up" install. Anyone else have this trouble?
(1) The lines are juuuuust long enough to reach about 2/3 of the way down the little "tunnel" between the fenderwell and the plastic fender liner, necessitating the removal of the entire fender liner to splice into the factory lines. Would it REALLY have killed them to add another 4"-6" to each of the lines so that you could make the connection below the fender liner and not have to remove it? Sheesh!
(2) Why in the name of God are the ends where they're supposed to splice into the existing hard lines THREADED?!?! The hard lines can be cut and possibly flared, but there's nothin' threaded about 'em and the SS lines came with no threaded connection to place on the cut hard lines. Okay, so one did, but the other did not. And of course they don't bother telling you this before you buy 'em. Or that you'll need a flaring tool.
So that's my rant. After an hour's worth of getting filthy removing the fender liner and determining that this wasn't going to happen today, I had to put 'em back in the box and wait for another day and a flaring tool (and threaded connection for the supply line) to show up. Guess I'm calling Lindsey tomorrow with a great big "WTF?!?!"
The lines sure do look nice though. Shame they're such a pain in the *** to install and NOT an easy "bolt-up" install. Anyone else have this trouble?
#3
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you dont need to flare them.there is supposed to be something you put into the top of the hard line.first you cut the hardline,put the bottom nut,then the compression fitting,then the AN fitting w/the braided line.theres no flaring involved.though i dont have the lindsey unit,i have the pauertunning lines,which are practically the same.
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Well, there's a little end/nipple thing for the return line; that's probably what you're talking about. Maybe there's supposed to be two (one for the supply, one for the return?)
I gotta' call 'em tomorrow and see what's up. Thanks for the info. though.
I gotta' call 'em tomorrow and see what's up. Thanks for the info. though.
#5
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I thought they were a bit on the long side really. I wish I could have cut the hard lines at the top, almost in the engine compartment. Mine had the little pieces to thread together to make them bite onto the lines. At first I thought they would never seal, but I'm actually quite impressed. They work very well.
Then again, I had the plain ol' rubber lines, not the SS.
Then again, I had the plain ol' rubber lines, not the SS.
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I think the idea there was to keep the connection out of the engine bay and away from your exhaust headers.
There are two parts to the compression nut. Three really, the lower part of the nut (internally threaded) that slides onto the metal fuel line, the compression ferrule that sits on top of this, and then the rest of the AN connection that threads onto the bottom nut, compresses the ferrule as it is threaded and seals the connection. You don't need a flaring tool, but a crows foot wrench will come in very handy.
HTH
There are two parts to the compression nut. Three really, the lower part of the nut (internally threaded) that slides onto the metal fuel line, the compression ferrule that sits on top of this, and then the rest of the AN connection that threads onto the bottom nut, compresses the ferrule as it is threaded and seals the connection. You don't need a flaring tool, but a crows foot wrench will come in very handy.
HTH
#7
#1 - they are like that on purpose so that the connection is protected by the fender liner
#2 - see all the posts above, they are no flared and dont need to be. Cut one line and they are held together with a compression fitting (and it sounds like you are missing one part).
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#2 - see all the posts above, they are no flared and dont need to be. Cut one line and they are held together with a compression fitting (and it sounds like you are missing one part).
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#8
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Damn Jeff... I just got done putting in the EXACT same lines from Lindsey. Dave@Lindsey was awesome to work with to answer a few questions for me! Did you get the billet ends with them, I did... and the fire sleeve too!
Probably best to have the compression fitting behind the wheel liner anyway as you aren't going to get the angles lower, nor will you have any room to work there. The nut goes on first, then the ferrell (compression part), then you tighten everything up. Hold stable the top "part" while tightening the nut or you will run into trouble - speaking from experience there as well.
I thought it was a kick *** setup when done, especially with the new holder they provide in their kit.
75ohm.
Probably best to have the compression fitting behind the wheel liner anyway as you aren't going to get the angles lower, nor will you have any room to work there. The nut goes on first, then the ferrell (compression part), then you tighten everything up. Hold stable the top "part" while tightening the nut or you will run into trouble - speaking from experience there as well.
I thought it was a kick *** setup when done, especially with the new holder they provide in their kit.
75ohm.
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It definitely sounds like I got an incomplete set. All mine came with was the two lines and one compression fitting. No mounting bracket, no nothin'. I'll call them to find out what the deal is.
Not to be an ***, but I fail to see what the benefit of having the connection behind the "tunnel" in the fender liner accomplishes versus having it further down (lower). If it's lower, I'd think it'd be more likely any fuel from a leaking connection would find its way to the ground, which is a helluva lot better than having it run down the line or body to some other location (possibly over a hot exhaust pipe or something).
In any case, the problem can be solved by installing some kind of drip edge close to where the hard line turns horizontal to run towards the rear of the car.
Not to be an ***, but I fail to see what the benefit of having the connection behind the "tunnel" in the fender liner accomplishes versus having it further down (lower). If it's lower, I'd think it'd be more likely any fuel from a leaking connection would find its way to the ground, which is a helluva lot better than having it run down the line or body to some other location (possibly over a hot exhaust pipe or something).
In any case, the problem can be solved by installing some kind of drip edge close to where the hard line turns horizontal to run towards the rear of the car.
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necessitating the removal of the entire fender liner to splice into the factory lines
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Yea, it was just a PITA for me - I had the car up on ramps for some other stuff and figured "since I'm doing all this, I might as well try those SS fuel lines that have been sitting around for a while". Since I couldn't get the car off the ramps (original fuel lines disconnected) to start it, it couldn't be jacked up to get the wheel off, so I had to get under there all contortionist style. Not hard, but annoying.
It would have been a heck of a lot easier with the wheel off.
It would have been a heck of a lot easier with the wheel off.
#14
FWIW, I much prefer the set I got from Pauerman here. I had a Lindsey set and ditched them for it. Another lister did the same to his BRAND NEW Lindsey units after seeing my install.
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#15
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Originally Posted by Bill
... If this makes you upset, I would recomend that you never attempt a clutch job.