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300# springs and uber raked.

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Old 11-21-2005, 11:07 AM
  #16  
TD in DC
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Campeck,

Were you using the Motive Power bleeder to bleed your brakes? On newer Porsches (e.g., 996s) you can use up to 15-18 psi. On the older Porsches, you really should not use much more than 10 psi or you will start to blow out seals. How much pressure were you using? Did you put any air bubbles in your system? Can you see where it is leaking?

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Old 11-21-2005, 11:40 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by GlenL
Might not be your problem, but I did just do the fourth bleed cycle on my car after putting in a new master. This time it feels nice.

Drove it while mushy and needed an extra pump, occasionally. It's a real dilemma as using the brakes, and the action of the car, will move the bubbles to the bleeders. Not smart but not much option. If the first quart of ATE Gold doesn't get it, the second quart in the session ain't going to either.
Glen,

I don't think this is (exclusively) and issue of air in his brake system. In his first post in this thread Campeck stated that the MC leaked when they pressurized it with the brake bleeder. If the MC leaks under that pressure then it will surely leak under actual use and exhibit bad/dangerous braking characteristics.


Campeck,

I'm not trying to bust your chops. If you want to drive your car like that on closed roads with no other traffic, then feel free. However, when you put other people at risk by driving a potentially dangerous car on public road, well then I have to take issue.
Old 11-21-2005, 12:14 PM
  #18  
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I doubt the back is going to come down enough and with 300# upfront it is going to understeer like mad. As for the BJ/A-Arm about 13" from center cap to fender opening is a decent ratio.
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Old 11-22-2005, 05:57 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Manning
It was nothing to roll your eyes at Ashton. If your MC is leaking enough so that mashing the brake pedal slams it to the floor, then you plain and simple should not be driving the car, even if you can get it to pump up with extra pedal strokes.

manning..it IS something to roll my eyes at it. why? cause you cant read/listen.
no offense..really. but where did i EVER lead you to believe that my pedal goes to the floor....really spongy? nowhere. isaid it was like bad NA brakes then..pump....good turbo brakes.
Old 11-22-2005, 05:59 PM
  #20  
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why delete the torsion bars?

because they would be obsolete if i put 500# springs on. they would be dead weight and just a pain to keep around.
Old 11-22-2005, 06:06 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Campeck
manning..it IS something to roll my eyes at it. why? cause you cant read/listen.
no offense..really. but where did i EVER lead you to believe that my pedal goes to the floor....really spongy? nowhere. isaid it was like bad NA brakes then..pump....good turbo brakes.
ashton.. the whole point is stupid. if the brakes aren't functioning right.... the car should not be driven, period. You don't know that the master won't blow at any point, the problem get worse, etc when it's not working correctly. Brake system uses very little fluid and uses a high pressure on a small amount of fluid to actuate the calipers..... if there is a small leak.. it porportionaly has a huge affect. Get AAA, it's cheaper then a new car when something goes wrong.
Old 11-22-2005, 08:38 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Campeck
manning..it IS something to roll my eyes at it. why? cause you cant read/listen.
no offense..really. but where did i EVER lead you to believe that my pedal goes to the floor....really spongy? nowhere. isaid it was like bad NA brakes then..pump....good turbo brakes.
Your first post actually. Granted I assumed the "to the floor" part, but where you stated:

Originally Posted by Campeck
so whenever i need to brake i have to hit the brakes once. then quickly hit them again so the car will [stop].
...it is pretty easy to assume that is what was happening. The MC started to go on my Scirocco many years ago. No sign of leaks whatsoever before hand. Then driving home one night I almost stuffed it into the back of another car. I had to pump the brakes just like you describe to get the car to stop. Had to do that all the way home, about a 20 mile drive. I wouldn't drive that car again until after I replaced the MC.

And yeah, what Devon said.
Old 11-22-2005, 09:51 PM
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In a nutshell - if you can't deal with criticism, don't post stupid sh*t.
Old 11-23-2005, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Serge944
In a nutshell - if you can't deal with criticism, don't post stupid sh*t.
A bit harsh, but totally to the point. Something I've been known for.

There certainly is wisdom in this that folks should take to heart.

Nobody is saying don't share. But if you do something foolish and share it, don't get mad if people call you on it and in a very direct fashion or worse. And this is directed to everyone - certainly not singling out Campeck (and certainly not excluding myself).
Old 11-23-2005, 01:03 PM
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with 300 lb springs in the front, a good helpful upgrade would be a 968 rear M030 sway bar on stiffest setting to reduce the understeer somewhat. 80lbs springs on 968 M030 rear Koni shocks would also help this too. I'm not familiar with this setup on a 300 lbs front car, but I've seen it on a 275 lb car and it was pretty stable.
Old 11-23-2005, 10:46 PM
  #26  
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stig. i have a 19 mm rear sway with serges droplinks. and its set pretty stiff. i doubt toying with it will help any. its a combo of the stiff front and skinny front tires. 205 front vs. 225 rear.
Old 11-24-2005, 06:13 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by TheStig
with 300 lb springs in the front, a good helpful upgrade would be a 968 rear M030 sway bar on stiffest setting to reduce the understeer somewhat. 80lbs springs on 968 M030 rear Koni shocks would also help this too. I'm not familiar with this setup on a 300 lbs front car, but I've seen it on a 275 lb car and it was pretty stable.
No offense intended Stig, but that sway is not going to help enough to make a difference. The only way to bring things back into the norm is to increase the rear spring rate. BTDT

A bit harsh, but totally to the point. Something I've been known for. There certainly is wisdom in this that folks should take to heart. Nobody is saying don't share. But if you do something foolish and share it, don't get mad if people call you on it and in a very direct fashion or worse. And this is directed to everyone - certainly not singling out Campeck (and certainly not excluding myself).
Agreed. I have been known for telling things like it is and sometimes that is perceived as being rude, in fact a few weeks back I took a rather bad tonguelashing from 2 'Listers (who are now on my ignore list) for doing just that. When people post stupid shat, or step out of line, I just call it like it is, no harm intended or dislike imparted. (obligatory smiley to make things nicer for the understanding impaired)

Campeck, I know you mean well, and don't take anything said to you in this thread as being an insult. If people here didn't like you they would just have you on "ignore" and wouldn't be interested in what you are doing. I wish I was doing the projects with my dad that you are doing now, when I was your age. What you and your dad are doing together is great. Keep up the good work, and be safe.
Old 11-24-2005, 01:26 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by tifosiman
I wish I was doing the projects with my dad that you are doing now, when I was your age. What you and your dad are doing together is great. Keep up the good work, and be safe.
Amen to that Tifo! Shoot, I wish I was doing anything with my dad today, but sadly he's been gone for 18 years. Kind of hard to beleive.

Campeck, you truly have something to be thankful for today.



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