Speed Bleeder - Anyone Use These
11-14-2005, 11:42 PM
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Riverside, RI
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Speed Bleeder - Anyone Use These
I saw these "Speed Bleeder" screws on Paragon's web site and thought they looked interesting. Anyone try these? Any reason to think these wouldn't work as well as a pressure bleeder?
http://www.paragon-products.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=SB%5F1010S&CartID=1[/URL]
http://www.paragon-products.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=SB%5F1010S&CartID=1[/URL]
11-14-2005, 11:45 PM
#2
Campeck Rulez
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
11-14-2005, 11:49 PM
#5
Campeck Rulez
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
also. they should work with a presuure bleeder.... unscrea ll the ones you bought. hook up a hose and bottle to each bleeder. and pump the pressure up. lol. now thats fast brake bleeding!
11-14-2005, 11:52 PM
#6
Nordschleife Master
Honestly, i would just get the Motive Powerbleeder, also available from Paragon. At $26 for the speed bleeders, you are halfway to the cost of the Powerbleeder. I have heard that sucess with the speed bleeders is hit and miss.
The PowerBleeder makes an otherwise dreadful job of bleeding the brakes super simple. I can bleed all four corners in about 30-45 minutes with jacking up each individual side. I generally bleed the brakes after autocross and have the wheels of anyway. That just makes it even easier!
Others will chime in about the speed bleeders, but honestly i think the PowerBleeder is one of the best approaches.
The PowerBleeder makes an otherwise dreadful job of bleeding the brakes super simple. I can bleed all four corners in about 30-45 minutes with jacking up each individual side. I generally bleed the brakes after autocross and have the wheels of anyway. That just makes it even easier!
Others will chime in about the speed bleeders, but honestly i think the PowerBleeder is one of the best approaches.
Trending Topics
11-15-2005, 10:37 AM
#8
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I would definitely look into Jon's suggestion re. the Motive Power bleeder, I might do this when I put the turbo brakes onto my project, as there are two bleed screws per caliper...
However, I do also have the Speedbleeders on my WRX and they work exactly as advertised. In fact, there is enough room between the stock calipers and the Prodrive wheels, that I can slip the plastic tube and bag over the bleed screw and loosen the bleed screw without removing the wheels, so in my particular case it is very fast. I think this is not going to be the case normally, and one would still have to remove the wheels to do this operation. As one would expect, the normal order for bleeding must still be followed and it is still one wheel at a time.
One other cautionary note, when I was looking into these, I read some feedback from people who have over-torqued these and striped them out... so go easy is the rule!
However, I do also have the Speedbleeders on my WRX and they work exactly as advertised. In fact, there is enough room between the stock calipers and the Prodrive wheels, that I can slip the plastic tube and bag over the bleed screw and loosen the bleed screw without removing the wheels, so in my particular case it is very fast. I think this is not going to be the case normally, and one would still have to remove the wheels to do this operation. As one would expect, the normal order for bleeding must still be followed and it is still one wheel at a time.
One other cautionary note, when I was looking into these, I read some feedback from people who have over-torqued these and striped them out... so go easy is the rule!
11-15-2005, 11:03 AM
#9
Nordschleife Master
I've got them and I don't like them. I still bleed with an assistant and figured they would help a bit. Wrongo! The threads aren't really tight and I'm concerned it would allow air in if doing it by myself. That is, attaching a hose and bottle, opening the bleeder and then pumping the brake.
What really pissed me off was that the little valve inside is too strong for when there's a lot of air in the system. I've changed masters and hoses and had to put in a spare plain bleeder to get fluid out. With a lot of air the pressure isn't opening the valve and nothing happens.
What really pissed me off was that the little valve inside is too strong for when there's a lot of air in the system. I've changed masters and hoses and had to put in a spare plain bleeder to get fluid out. With a lot of air the pressure isn't opening the valve and nothing happens.
11-15-2005, 11:52 AM
#10
Nordschleife Master
amjf088, i wish the n/a calipers had those two bleed nipples on the outside like the Turbo brakes. I probably wouldnt even need to take the wheels off to bleed them (though considering i have D90's i would probably need to). My buddies Evo is the easiest ever with those 6 spoke Enkei wheels. No jacking , no wheels to come off. Stick your hand between the spokes and bleed away! Hell if my car had brakes that easy to bleed, i would do it every weekend!
11-15-2005, 12:18 PM
#11
Drifting
The other advantage is the new hardware. I had 2 old bleeders twist off when I tried to bleed the brakes. The speedbleeders I used to replace them are working fairly well, though the needed to be retightened after a few heat cycles.
11-15-2005, 12:35 PM
#12
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I use a homemade Motive for the brakes and a speed bleeder on the clutch slave. Seems to work well enough on the slave, except for one of my cylinders apparently having kicked the bucket so no bleeding method is working, its still spongy 
11-15-2005, 02:49 PM
#14
Race Director
I've got a Motive power bleeder, but honestly have never used it. The 'have a friend depress the brake pedal as I bleed the brakes' seems to work best, IMHO. Plus if you've got friends that owe you favors.... 
-Z-man.
-Z-man.
11-15-2005, 02:50 PM
#15
Nordschleife Master
You should bleed it as its part of the brake hydraulic system. Its bled the same exact way as the brake calipers, open up the bleed screw and the fluid will run out if its pressurized, otherwise do it the old fashioned way with someone helping you hit the pedal. Thats one reason why i think its better to get the pressure bleeder.
The slave is located right by the starter, its a good idea to disconnect the battery as you are likely to hit the starter loosening the bleeder screw with a wrench and unintentionally do some arc welding a few inches away from your face.
The slave is located right by the starter, its a good idea to disconnect the battery as you are likely to hit the starter loosening the bleeder screw with a wrench and unintentionally do some arc welding a few inches away from your face.