Hey Everyone!

I went out today to change the transmission oil but ran into a little snag...
The top hex/allen bolt is stripped! I mean, the entire inside is round! I'm glad I checked it first so I am still drivable but, I am wondering when was the last gear oil change?

So, what is the best way to get this out? I tried some vice grips but I can't get a good grip on it. I'm too keen on trying to drill it...

Any ideas?
Thanks..
~Clint

 

Well, I hate it when that happens! I've been thru it also. These plugs are tapered, and a lot of people WAY over torque them, and don't use a quality 17mm allen socket. The VW 17mm tool you find at a lot of FLAPS is not a real good choice (if ya ask me).

If it is completely rounded out inside, you can try a few things.

1: you can take a larger sized tork bit, or 12 pt bit and try to drive it into the plug enough to get a bite on it to come out. (Never done this myself).

2: you can drill it for a #5 spiral easy out (drill size 19/64") or for a #6 (13/32 drill size) and go at it with that. If you go this route, just make sure your drilling the proper sized hole for the easy out. It should be printed on the easyout tool as to what size drill to use.

3: if you have a dremel tool, you can shape the inside of the plug to get a "somewhat" hex again, in order to fit a larger diameter allen tool. (Never done this myself either).

I've done the #5 easyout, BUT, I also have an acetelyne torch setup that I used with a #0 tip in the torch to heat the area around the plug. It came out pretty well this way. NOTE: CAREFUL if you do this! Heating a closed up box (especially with oil in it) can be dangerous if not done carefully, besides the fact you have fuel lines down around that area.

Before you start, buy yourself 2 each brand new drain plugs, a good quality 17mm allen socket, torque them to 18ft lbs, and you'll never have this problem again. Unless of course, some jiffy lube type place gets a hold of the car. Good luck!

 

Well, I'm still at it!
I don't want to go the EZ out route for fear of the bit breaking off. Then I will be seriously SOL.
I don't have any welding equipment....and a couple shops I talked to said they didn't want to weld around there.

I have tried an 18mm Allen Tool, pipe wrench, vice grips and even tried a chisel to nick the edge to tap it out....It's still there and not budging!

Any ideas now? PLEASE!!!

~Clint

 

I like Ken's idea #1. Starting with a 17mm hole means you'll need a big bit to make to work. When you hammer it in the threads will loosen.

The last resort is to get a new rear cover.

 

Try the big Torx bit idea. Ive have done similar (on far smaller ones though) and it works fairly well.

Or see if you can get a bolt head pounded in there, then double nut the bolt itself and crank it out with that. Prolly start with a double nutted bolt, so the threads dont get ruined.

 

How bout take a hammer and chisel and work it off like that.

Edit, i see you tried that already.

 

Get a dremel and make it into a big straight slot, then find a pry bar and put it into that slot and go from there.
Never tried, only crazy theory that worked on a smaller scale with a screw driver.

But I used the 17mm allen socket from a set from Harbor Freight and no problemo.

 

JB Weld a 17mm socket in there, it is the one of the only sure fire thing I have ever found.

For the record, if you can find a big rig place 17 and 18MM socketed tools are cheap and plentiful.
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote

 

I'm surprised the chisel didn't work. What size hammer did you use? It's got to be the biggest sledge-hammer you can comfortably wield and you've got to wail on it. Can you not get a good grip on it with the chisel?

 

On the plus side you tried the fill first, generally this question comes up after someone has drained it and cant refill it
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote

 

I agree with Matt. I have used the JB Weld technique before and so far it has always worked.

 

I'm going to try the JB weld and see what happens. If that fails.....that puppy is getting drilled!

Has anyone ever replaced the allen bolts with something more.....user friendly?

Thanks for your ideas everyone!

~Clint

 

Clint, if it doesnt then I suggest that your next "bolt" be a modified stock piece. Take a 17mm hex, cut it and have a short piece welded in the hex. From that point on you are a 17mm socket away from getting it out. MUCH easier in the end.
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote

 

On BMW, Audi, and Porsche, they are notorious for using these. I don't understand why??? A 6-point would be so much easier, and would rarely strip...regardless, I was working on my Audi and heres what I did to the stripped ones...

The ones that I could get to, I put my 5mm allen key in it, and welded 4 tacs around with my Mig, came right out. I supposed JB would work as well, but I haven't tried that. The few stubborn bolts that I couldn't get out by welding I took my dremel and cut a 90 degree wedge cut, took my air chisle, and it came right out. This has always worked, regardless, but requires a new bolt. I am not sure about the 951, but alot of the parts on my Audi are aluminum with a metal, non-stainless bolt. Over time, more than typically 2-4 years, the bolt and pan can oxidize with eachother, making it physicially impossible to break. We had this problem on my oil pan, had to pull it, and make another plug. We had over 1000ft/lbs or breaking force on it with no luck, two impact sockets broken.

 

I did this 6 years ago before it was fashionable. People scoffed at me back them. Let the JB Weld set up a long time and don't glue the drain plug to the tranny!