RL Special Sale: Rear Sway Bar Droplinks
11-12-2005, 09:02 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
RL Special Sale: Rear Sway Bar Droplinks
In an attempt to scavenge some money for a 951 deposit, I'm throwing my remaining 944 droplink inventory on sale.
I have 6 sets for just $40 + 5 shipping - $10 less than what I have been getting through ebay. I'm trying to move these by Tuesday. Thanks!
Features:
- Oversized, cadmium plated (for corrosion resistance), teflon-lined rod ends with zinc coated lock nuts.
- Self maintaining and should outlast the OEM units, all while providing a performance gain.
- Provide a more direct weight transfer of the rear swaybar (minimizing initial loss of energy associated with the rubber OEM droplinks).
- Length adjustable to eliminate pre-load. Pre-load can cause odd handling between left and right as the bar won't be neutral when it should it.
- Allow a more linear swaybar response, as the stock links give before the swaybar has any input.
They will fit all 924/944/968s with a rear swaybar. Instructions included.
Oh, and if anyones curious, e30 links are available too (see last pic).
I have 6 sets for just $40 + 5 shipping - $10 less than what I have been getting through ebay. I'm trying to move these by Tuesday. Thanks!
Features:
- Oversized, cadmium plated (for corrosion resistance), teflon-lined rod ends with zinc coated lock nuts.
- Self maintaining and should outlast the OEM units, all while providing a performance gain.
- Provide a more direct weight transfer of the rear swaybar (minimizing initial loss of energy associated with the rubber OEM droplinks).
- Length adjustable to eliminate pre-load. Pre-load can cause odd handling between left and right as the bar won't be neutral when it should it.
- Allow a more linear swaybar response, as the stock links give before the swaybar has any input.
They will fit all 924/944/968s with a rear swaybar. Instructions included.
Oh, and if anyones curious, e30 links are available too (see last pic).
11-12-2005, 09:13 PM
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
11-12-2005, 09:18 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Main purpose of these is length adjustment so that you can eliminate pre-load. Pre load is when the bar is not neutral when youre going straight. Heres why its bad:
Bars have a springrate... say 100lbs/degree. That means it would take 100lbs of force to deflect the bar 1 degree in torsion. You eliminate the preload on the bar because that way, when you're in roll, the bar is actually DOING something. Think about it. Say your bar is preloaded at ride height. That means that as you go into roll, with one side of the car going into droop and the other going into bump, one side is getting some amount of sway bar loading, while the other bar is actually UNLOADING to 0 load. Essentially, it would create a jacking force on the unladen side, which is definately bad. When your bars are unloaded at ride height, they resist roll both in droop and in bump, conditions your car sees by default as you roll while in a corner.
Stock droplinks are not adjustable and you WILL encounter pre-load. There is NO way around it. The factory can't take into the consideration the difference between a 150 and 200 lb driver
If you have a rear swaybar, and havent purchased links through me, KLA, or Tarrett, then you probably have stock ones.
Maybe one of the dozens of people who bought these could comment if they were worth the money? My opinion would be biased
Bars have a springrate... say 100lbs/degree. That means it would take 100lbs of force to deflect the bar 1 degree in torsion. You eliminate the preload on the bar because that way, when you're in roll, the bar is actually DOING something. Think about it. Say your bar is preloaded at ride height. That means that as you go into roll, with one side of the car going into droop and the other going into bump, one side is getting some amount of sway bar loading, while the other bar is actually UNLOADING to 0 load. Essentially, it would create a jacking force on the unladen side, which is definately bad. When your bars are unloaded at ride height, they resist roll both in droop and in bump, conditions your car sees by default as you roll while in a corner.
Stock droplinks are not adjustable and you WILL encounter pre-load. There is NO way around it. The factory can't take into the consideration the difference between a 150 and 200 lb driver
If you have a rear swaybar, and havent purchased links through me, KLA, or Tarrett, then you probably have stock ones.
Maybe one of the dozens of people who bought these could comment if they were worth the money? My opinion would be biased
11-12-2005, 09:33 PM
#6
Race Car
Originally Posted by Serge944
Main purpose of these is length adjustment so that you can eliminate pre-load. Pre load is when the bar is not neutral when youre going straight. Heres why its bad:
Bars have a springrate... say 100lbs/degree. That means it would take 100lbs of force to deflect the bar 1 degree in torsion. You eliminate the preload on the bar because that way, when you're in roll, the bar is actually DOING something. Think about it. Say your bar is preloaded at ride height. That means that as you go into roll, with one side of the car going into droop and the other going into bump, one side is getting some amount of sway bar loading, while the other bar is actually UNLOADING to 0 load. Essentially, it would create a jacking force on the unladen side, which is definately bad. When your bars are unloaded at ride height, they resist roll both in droop and in bump, conditions your car sees by default as you roll while in a corner.
Stock droplinks are not adjustable and you WILL encounter pre-load. There is NO way around it. The factory can't take into the consideration the difference between a 150 and 200 lb driver
If you have a rear swaybar, and havent purchased links through me, KLA, or Tarrett, then you probably have stock ones.
Maybe one of the dozens of people who bought these could comment if they were worth the money? My opinion would be biased
Bars have a springrate... say 100lbs/degree. That means it would take 100lbs of force to deflect the bar 1 degree in torsion. You eliminate the preload on the bar because that way, when you're in roll, the bar is actually DOING something. Think about it. Say your bar is preloaded at ride height. That means that as you go into roll, with one side of the car going into droop and the other going into bump, one side is getting some amount of sway bar loading, while the other bar is actually UNLOADING to 0 load. Essentially, it would create a jacking force on the unladen side, which is definately bad. When your bars are unloaded at ride height, they resist roll both in droop and in bump, conditions your car sees by default as you roll while in a corner.
Stock droplinks are not adjustable and you WILL encounter pre-load. There is NO way around it. The factory can't take into the consideration the difference between a 150 and 200 lb driver
If you have a rear swaybar, and havent purchased links through me, KLA, or Tarrett, then you probably have stock ones.
Maybe one of the dozens of people who bought these could comment if they were worth the money? My opinion would be biased
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11-12-2005, 10:12 PM
#8
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
When you install them, you have to have your suspension loaded. Then, you put the droplinks on without forcing them on. This is where the length adjustment comes in.
Wood blocks work...
Wood blocks work...
11-12-2005, 10:54 PM
#11
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by The DareDevil
Jeeze that looks dangerous...
