Infinty Basslink- Where could I hook up the power?
10-27-2005, 05:07 PM
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Infinty Basslink- Where could I hook up the power?
I just got this powered sub from infinity ($175), its perfect for our small cars and is relatively light.
details---->http://www.infinitysystems.com/caraudio/hot_news.aspx
Manual--> http://manuals.harman.com/INF/CAR/Owner's%20Manual/BassLink%20om.pdf
....anyways I want to install it in the rear hatch, where would I be able to tap in the power?
...I have never hooked any audio stuff before, once I am done I will post some picks.
details---->http://www.infinitysystems.com/caraudio/hot_news.aspx
Manual--> http://manuals.harman.com/INF/CAR/Owner's%20Manual/BassLink%20om.pdf
....anyways I want to install it in the rear hatch, where would I be able to tap in the power?
...I have never hooked any audio stuff before, once I am done I will post some picks.
10-27-2005, 05:23 PM
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Basically, there will be the following:
-RCA connects (from head-unit to powered AMP)
-Remote Lead (from head-unit to the Infinity to tell it when to turn on/off)
-Constant Power Lead (from the battery terminal to the Infinity)
-Negative Lead (from the Infinity to a ground spot)
The manual for that subwoofer details installation very well so I will try not to reiterate much. As for the power, you must run it to the battery with a fuse in-line. There are amp-wiring kits which will include wires for the battery, ground, and RCA connections and they usually run ~30-40 dollars.
To run the wires I recommend running them underneath the carpet along the passenger side. I'd recommend removing the passenger-rear panel (the one you remove to access the rear passenger speaker). Then you can route the wires underneath the carpet and along the door pane (pull up the black plastic and run behind the carpet) to the front passenger foot-well. From there route the RCA and remote line to the stereo head-unit and route the Battery lead through the firewall to the battery (there is a plug where the antenna booster wire runs through the firewall which the cable will fit through if you remove the rubber plug). The ground cable can be drilled and mounted near the amp itself in the rear of the car. Good luck on the install, it sounds a lot harder than it is.
-RCA connects (from head-unit to powered AMP)
-Remote Lead (from head-unit to the Infinity to tell it when to turn on/off)
-Constant Power Lead (from the battery terminal to the Infinity)
-Negative Lead (from the Infinity to a ground spot)
The manual for that subwoofer details installation very well so I will try not to reiterate much. As for the power, you must run it to the battery with a fuse in-line. There are amp-wiring kits which will include wires for the battery, ground, and RCA connections and they usually run ~30-40 dollars.
To run the wires I recommend running them underneath the carpet along the passenger side. I'd recommend removing the passenger-rear panel (the one you remove to access the rear passenger speaker). Then you can route the wires underneath the carpet and along the door pane (pull up the black plastic and run behind the carpet) to the front passenger foot-well. From there route the RCA and remote line to the stereo head-unit and route the Battery lead through the firewall to the battery (there is a plug where the antenna booster wire runs through the firewall which the cable will fit through if you remove the rubber plug). The ground cable can be drilled and mounted near the amp itself in the rear of the car. Good luck on the install, it sounds a lot harder than it is.
10-27-2005, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Robert D
Basically, there will be the following:
-RCA connects (from head-unit to powered AMP)
-Remote Lead (from head-unit to the Infinity to tell it when to turn on/off)
-Constant Power Lead (from the battery terminal to the Infinity)
-Negative Lead (from the Infinity to a ground spot)
The manual for that subwoofer details installation very well so I will try not to reiterate much. As for the power, you must run it to the battery with a fuse in-line. There are amp-wiring kits which will include wires for the battery, ground, and RCA connections and they usually run ~30-40 dollars.
To run the wires I recommend running them underneath the carpet along the passenger side. I'd recommend removing the passenger-rear panel (the one you remove to access the rear passenger speaker). Then you can route the wires underneath the carpet and along the door pane (pull up the black plastic and run behind the carpet) to the front passenger foot-well. From there route the RCA and remote line to the stereo head-unit and route the Battery lead through the firewall to the battery (there is a plug where the antenna booster wire runs through the firewall which the cable will fit through if you remove the rubber plug). The ground cable can be drilled and mounted near the amp itself in the rear of the car. Good luck on the install, it sounds a lot harder than it is.
-RCA connects (from head-unit to powered AMP)
-Remote Lead (from head-unit to the Infinity to tell it when to turn on/off)
-Constant Power Lead (from the battery terminal to the Infinity)
-Negative Lead (from the Infinity to a ground spot)
The manual for that subwoofer details installation very well so I will try not to reiterate much. As for the power, you must run it to the battery with a fuse in-line. There are amp-wiring kits which will include wires for the battery, ground, and RCA connections and they usually run ~30-40 dollars.
To run the wires I recommend running them underneath the carpet along the passenger side. I'd recommend removing the passenger-rear panel (the one you remove to access the rear passenger speaker). Then you can route the wires underneath the carpet and along the door pane (pull up the black plastic and run behind the carpet) to the front passenger foot-well. From there route the RCA and remote line to the stereo head-unit and route the Battery lead through the firewall to the battery (there is a plug where the antenna booster wire runs through the firewall which the cable will fit through if you remove the rubber plug). The ground cable can be drilled and mounted near the amp itself in the rear of the car. Good luck on the install, it sounds a lot harder than it is.
Great INFO, just what I needed... tnx Rob
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10-27-2005, 05:42 PM
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if you are talking about the power needed to run the sub woofer you will need to run a wire from the battery (preferably a 4 gauge wire) from the positive terminal on the battery all the way to the back of the car. for what its worth i installed two 12 inch superwoofers ans a 800 watt amp in the back of my s class with the help of one of my friends (car audio specialst/installer at circuit city). with that said take it somewhere and pay the money to get it installed, it is well worth the money, because as 951 obsession said if something goes wrong its the shops problem not yours.
freshlax944
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10-27-2005, 05:46 PM
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wow i wish i didnt type so slow. you guys beat me to it. one last word of advice tho... run the constant power and the rca's on opposite sides of the car. if they are to close together you may end up with a bad case of feedback.
freshlax944
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10-27-2005, 05:59 PM
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That is true, forgot about the feedback due to the power lead. May as well run the RCA and remote wires along the driver's side and the power lead along the passenger side. Hiding the wires around the dash is the fun part, I used zip-ties on the truck.
10-28-2005, 03:22 AM
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The Basslink doesn't put out any more than 275w so 8 guage power and ground cable would actually be ok.
As far as having your amp/sub installed "professionally" by people at Circuit City you could probably do a better job yourself. The insurance company for Circuit City ended up having to pay me over $800 for damaging the factory radio ($666.63) and various trim pieces ($150) in my Civic Si. Just take your time and don't cut corners.
It's alot easier than you think...
Chris
87 924s
As far as having your amp/sub installed "professionally" by people at Circuit City you could probably do a better job yourself. The insurance company for Circuit City ended up having to pay me over $800 for damaging the factory radio ($666.63) and various trim pieces ($150) in my Civic Si. Just take your time and don't cut corners.
It's alot easier than you think...
Chris
87 924s
10-28-2005, 11:09 AM
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I believe in the instruction manual for the basslink it actually specifies the gauge wire and size of fuse to use and what distance to have the fuse from the battery terminal. I'm very impressed with the quality of directions provided by infinity for the basslink...they didn't provide any with my 3.5's I put in the truck 
. Although, I wouldn't have read them anyways!
. Although, I wouldn't have read them anyways!
10-28-2005, 11:19 AM
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What do you guys who own this subwoofer think of it? It's about the only thing (aside from a 6" bazooka tube) that can fit in my trunk. I don't need pounding bass but I need something to fill in the bottom end.
10-28-2005, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by C_Battle
The Basslink doesn't put out any more than 275w so 8 guage power and ground cable would actually be ok.
As far as having your amp/sub installed "professionally" by people at Circuit City you could probably do a better job yourself. The insurance company for Circuit City ended up having to pay me over $800 for damaging the factory radio ($666.63) and various trim pieces ($150) in my Civic Si. Just take your time and don't cut corners.
It's alot easier than you think...
Chris
87 924s
As far as having your amp/sub installed "professionally" by people at Circuit City you could probably do a better job yourself. The insurance company for Circuit City ended up having to pay me over $800 for damaging the factory radio ($666.63) and various trim pieces ($150) in my Civic Si. Just take your time and don't cut corners.
It's alot easier than you think...
Chris
87 924s