lilredpo

Home Depot and Boat/RV places sell a product called 'Damp-rid'. Excellent product that I've used when winterizing my boat to reduce humidity/moisture.

I've even used in the car during the humid days in summer because my garage is air conditioned which causes excess humidity when the heat comes in.

It wouldn't hurt to keep the moisture down.

vette4lyfe

What the hell is winter storage?

Mighty Shilling

agreed!

Scott at Team Harco

All good suggestions. Fill the tank up as much as possible to reduce the opportunity for moisture to gather. Sta-bil or similar is a very good idea as well. If left long enough, gasoline turns to turpentine - you don't want that running through your injectors.

There are really three words when it comes to winter storage: fluids, fluids, fluids. Check or drain and change them all.
1) Engine oil has been covered here.
2) Brake and clutch hydraulic fluid should be be replaced with clean fresh fluid either before storage or before the first drive in the spring. I usually do it in the spring.
3) Transmission fluid should also be replaced per routine schedule. Typically every two or three years. Spring is also a good time to do this.
4) Fuel system - see above. Spraying a little fogger in the intake is not a bad thing. Time for a new fuel filter?
5) Battery should be removed and stored in a warm place - preferrably on a trickle charger. Make sure the electrolyte is at the correct level.
6) Engine coolant. Replaced on a two or three year schedule. Make sure it is at or near the correct 50/50 mix before the cold weather hits.
7) Washer fluid - easy to over look. Make sure there is windshield washer anti-freeze in the reservior. It is possible to crack the reservior if it is full of water and it is allowed to freeze. Check wiper blades in the spring.
8) Others - go around the car and lubricate the hinges to the doors, the hood, the hatch, all latches, pop-up light mechanism, etc. Clean all sealing surfaces with rubber preservative. If you have a crappy set of wheels and tires - store the car on those. Put the good tires in plastic bags and store them in a cool dry place. If you remove the wheels - take the time to inspect the brakes, suspension and anything else in the fenderwells and under the car.
9) Clean and grease (dielectric) electrical connections, if you really get ambitious. Check plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor.
10) Check accessory drive belts. When was the timing belt last replaced?
11) Keep rodents away and fight moisture any way possible.

Many of these items apply when bringing the car out of storage in the spring. Keep a checklist if you need to. A good survey of the car before storage is a good time to note items that need to be repaired or replaced. Chart these and order from your friendly parts supplier. You'll have them, and hopefully install them in time for the first sign of spring.

Follow a routine and keep things clean - your car will be ready to go when you want it.

951Boost

#9) Clean-Yes. "grease (dielectric) electrical connections" NO!

Common misconception, dielectric grease is actually used to contain electric flow. But don't just take my word for it:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dielectric

Good around the inside of spark plug boots, just a light film will do, don't let it touch the plug tip.

GOSANE

I've heard the phrase fog the cyls or intake used a couple of times and was wondering what a person would use to "fog" a cyl or intake ???? Thanks.

The DareDevil

Winter is the perfect opportunity to get going on those long-haul jobs you've been meaning to get to It's also a nice time to really clean up the car (if it isn't already immaculate).

Scott at Team Harco

The grease is useful at preventing moisture from gaining entrance to the electrical connection thus reducing the risk of corrosion. The grease will not prevent metal-to-metal contact of electrical connections. So - Yes - grease the connections.

Scott at Team Harco

Sta-bil makes a spray fogger. I'm sure there are others. And it is usually best to spray into the combustion chamber (unlike my previous suggestion of the intake).

Waterguy

Scott has covered it very well. I would also make sure that I filled the tank, added fuel stabilizer and ran the engine a bit to circulate the fuel stabilser before I put it to bed. If you fog the engine before storage, then there is no need to add oil to the cylinders in spring. I pull the DME relay and spin the engine using the starter until I get full oil pressure before I start it. Just make sure that you only spin the starter for max. 15 seconds, then let it cool for 1 minute, or you will risk burning out the starter motor.

A good wax job before storage is an excelent idea as well.

951Boost

Being a newbie here I’m not looking to ruffle anyone’s feathers so please understand I’m just trying to be helpful. Maybe I can try and explain myself a little better.

1) Dielectric = insulator, end of story. Most people think it acts as a conductor, it does not. Again, don’t take the word of a newbie, just read the link above. Does it prevent corrosion? Yes. Anytime you insulate bare metal from air/moisture you prevent corrosion.

2) “is useful at preventing moisture from gaining entrance to the electrical connection” True, any grease will do this but dielectric grease is better because it will not deteriorate the rubber plugs that are used to protect electrical connectors. So using it to seal these plugs from water/humidity entering and coming in contact with the metal connections is very useful.

3) “The grease will not prevent metal-to-metal contact of electrical connections” True in the case of proper electrical connections between two metal conductors (when they fit tight against each other & actually scratch their respective surfaces upon making a connection they in effect remove any grease that might have been applied). False in a loose connection, it will act as an insulator. Perfect example of this is the old trick of greasing the battery terminals to prevent corrosion. It works (even with axle grease!) doesn’t it? Ever stop & think why? When you tighten the clamps they actually displace the grease and “cut” into the battery posts, again creating metal-to-metal contact.


The point I’m trying to make is that dielectric grease is not a conductor it’s an insulator. Its intended use was to prevent high voltage leaks from certain types of circuits (like around a spark plug boot) or at least that’s what I remember from E.E. class (granted I slept thru most of them )

I can also provide the phone number of a friend of mine who built a killer big block speedboat. He (we) got it all tuned on a dyno, ran great, dropped it in the boat & waited a couple of weeks for some good weather. Put it in the water & had a horrible misfire. After checking a few things we pulled the plug wires & they were full (as in PACKED) with dielectric grease. He had read somewhere that it was good at preventing corrosion. We used carb/brake cleaner to blow the stuff out. Re-installed the wires and bingo! Ran great.

So in conclusion, an extremely light coating of dielectric grease (as in “apply a light coat & polish it off”) will prevent corrosion & not cause enough voltage drop/resistance to make a difference while providing corrosion resistance. Better yet would be to liberally coat the “plugs” that protect the electrical connection or both if you are going to be rallying your car in wet/muddy conditions.

Very little = good, a lot = bad

Again, not trying to diss anyone, I just got my car & I’m very thankful to rennlist and it’s members for all the knowledge they have enabled me to obtain. Just want to share my experience & possibly prevent someone from making a mistake.

Oh yes, and then there is bulb grease.............

Scott at Team Harco

Nicely put, Boost. Use the grease at a minimum and keep in mind its intended use.

You're right about the mud and slop aspect. I tend to deal with extreme conditions (rallies, ice races, etc) so I have to think sometimes in extreme terms.

Welcome to Rennlist and keep up the posts.

951Boost

Thanks Scott, I appreciate the warm welcome and if we were closer I certainly would like to hoist a few with you. By looking at your stable I KNOW you must have some interesting stories.

nine-44

I'd have to say change the oil before storage, old oil contains acid as a biproduct of combution.

Oddjob

A couple questions for the guys that think its important to change the oil before storage due to acid in the oil:

1) what acid are you concerned about? Sulfuric acid from sulfur content in the gas. Nitric acid from various nitrogen byproducts from the nitrogen in air? Other?

2) Have you ever seen an oil pan that has been etched from acidic oil? Or any other engine part?