Interior delete project under way.
#61
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Aaaaaah, funny you should bring this thread back up. I plan on having pictures posted by early next week, maybe Sunday if all goes well. I've got a few last issues to resolve before the interior's grand unveiling. Thanks for asking!!!
#62
Rennlist Member
sounds good!im in the exact same process of doing the same(actually finishing up).did you take out the heater box and blower stuff?if you did what did you do to block off the holes?the big hole in between the battery and fuse box?also where the heater lines used to be?btw,my interior was fkd anyway so im doing the car a favor and removing the old porsche smell.keep up the great work!
#63
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Update on my progress:
Removed all interior trim pieces, carpet, sound proofing, speakers, etc. 3-4 hours.
Removed all the adhesive and residue from interior, about 30 hours.
Taped and masked for paint prep, 4 hours.
Paint, about 3 hours.
Now I'm in the process of installing the cage, decided on bolt-in, can always go custom weld-in later. I painted it to match the interior. Now if I can just find drill bits that will drill through DOM tubing I'll be all set. Used Titanium bits, and they lasted for only 2 holes.
Next up is removing all the unnecessary wiring forward to the fuse box, gutting the side doors/fabbing lexan side windows for transport, washing, etc./, removing heater core/blower/AC components, installing the manual steering setup I have already purchased, order and install Leda coilovers/new bushings/new motor mounts. Right now it seems like the projects will never end...and I haven't even touched the engine yet (other than a few preventive maintenance issues -- water pump, front seals, belts, plugs/cap/rotor/wires).
Removed all interior trim pieces, carpet, sound proofing, speakers, etc. 3-4 hours.
Removed all the adhesive and residue from interior, about 30 hours.
Taped and masked for paint prep, 4 hours.
Paint, about 3 hours.
Now I'm in the process of installing the cage, decided on bolt-in, can always go custom weld-in later. I painted it to match the interior. Now if I can just find drill bits that will drill through DOM tubing I'll be all set. Used Titanium bits, and they lasted for only 2 holes.
Next up is removing all the unnecessary wiring forward to the fuse box, gutting the side doors/fabbing lexan side windows for transport, washing, etc./, removing heater core/blower/AC components, installing the manual steering setup I have already purchased, order and install Leda coilovers/new bushings/new motor mounts. Right now it seems like the projects will never end...and I haven't even touched the engine yet (other than a few preventive maintenance issues -- water pump, front seals, belts, plugs/cap/rotor/wires).
#64
Race Director
Looking good! Nice work.
BTW, the DOM tubing is just mild steel. Just about any decent bit should work. Are you turning your drill too many rpm? You should be using a slow drill speed and plenty of lubricant. Also, try a Unibit. I always thought they were a gimick until I saw them heavily used in the fabrication shows (American Hot Rod, American Chopper, etc). They work great. Be sure to use a punch to get some traction for the bit. Also, if you don't use a Unibit, use a smaller bit first and then go to the larger one.
BTW, the DOM tubing is just mild steel. Just about any decent bit should work. Are you turning your drill too many rpm? You should be using a slow drill speed and plenty of lubricant. Also, try a Unibit. I always thought they were a gimick until I saw them heavily used in the fabrication shows (American Hot Rod, American Chopper, etc). They work great. Be sure to use a punch to get some traction for the bit. Also, if you don't use a Unibit, use a smaller bit first and then go to the larger one.
#65
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks Geo, I'll try anything at this point. I have been using a 1/8, then a 1/4, then a 3/8...but no lubricant. Slow speed drill...maybe that's my problem, I've been buzzing the **** out of them. I'll try slow speed. What kind of lube? Just a silicone like PB or WD? I'll search for a Unibit later today. Thanks again.
#66
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Nov 2002
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The lube is actually more for cooling than anything else, so I don't think WD would be the best to use in this situation. The name of the 'real' stuff is escaping me...
Otherwise the interior looks good. I'm not really a fan of bolt-in cages, but that's the rallyist in me talking.
Otherwise the interior looks good. I'm not really a fan of bolt-in cages, but that's the rallyist in me talking.
#67
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Thread Starter
I'm not really a fan of bolt-in cages,
#69
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by shiners780
Yeah, I know, me either, but...$765 delivered to my door VS $3-4000 for a custom weld-in.
#70
Race Director
I've used WD40, motor oil, ATF, and a few other oil based products.
Yes, turn the bit slowly. If you spin them quickly you'll just over heat them and burn them up. They will become dull almost instantly. If you get to a point where the bit isn't cutting in, you can take a punch or a small cold chisel and "ding" the hole you've started. This will give the bit a place to grab if you're turning it slowly and should get it cutting again.
I used to not have any idea about drilling into metals until my ex-BiL gave me a primer (he's a machinist). Made a world of difference. What you want is either a series of little chips coming off (and if you're using enough lube most will cling to it) or a big spiral.
Yes, turn the bit slowly. If you spin them quickly you'll just over heat them and burn them up. They will become dull almost instantly. If you get to a point where the bit isn't cutting in, you can take a punch or a small cold chisel and "ding" the hole you've started. This will give the bit a place to grab if you're turning it slowly and should get it cutting again.
I used to not have any idea about drilling into metals until my ex-BiL gave me a primer (he's a machinist). Made a world of difference. What you want is either a series of little chips coming off (and if you're using enough lube most will cling to it) or a big spiral.
#71
Race Director
Originally Posted by 924Superwagen
Well, in that sense... yes, you can't beat it. But in my position, a few quick calls for materials and a case of beer (or two) for my buddy and I'd have a cage done in a (long) weekend. Porsches are better than most cars as it is, but it IS something extra to keep the noggin' off the asphalt.
#72
Burning Brakes
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Don't worry Geo... no drinking during the process. More like a payment for my buddy's welding skills and his Miller TIG.
Never thought WD would be good for the purpose, but it seems like others seem to think it's ok. I usually like something a little thicker, that clings to the tool more. Pat, that's the stuff I was thinking of... thanks.
Sweet... post #666
Never thought WD would be good for the purpose, but it seems like others seem to think it's ok. I usually like something a little thicker, that clings to the tool more. Pat, that's the stuff I was thinking of... thanks.
Sweet... post #666
#74
Race Car
the interior looks great, and your car is going to be a sweet track ride.
#75
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Lookin great. I know its a bit late, but you should still strongly consider raising that harness bar. I don't know why autopower insists on mounting so dangerously low! (I had mine custom spec'd and he still welded it in to low for my taste)
I just use motor oil as lube. Keeps the bits alive longer, and cools.
Eyal
I just use motor oil as lube. Keeps the bits alive longer, and cools.
Eyal