S2 with a frozen motor. PO - "engine froze going down highway (CO to TX), broke linkage, stuck in 3rd." (trans shifts ok, wheels turn)

I went to pull the engine and the torqe tube is stuck. I tried prying it and it won't budge more than 3/8 inch. Actually, Drive shaft is stuck, TT to Bell house. Take bell house bolts off next. It locked up, screeeeeching tires at 65(3rd gear). For the TT Normally I'd say no big deal - take the clutch assy off flywheel, take off flywheel, but its froze.

Engine is still in car, ready to drop. No signs of any internal damage. Pan and cradle are off. Mains, rods, walls, etc etc - everything looks fine.
Rods are still bolted to the crank. pull caps? froze piston??
Will NOT budge with a breaker bar, I'll bust the bolt with anymore umph.

I'm looking for some ideas, anyone ever have a stuck TT? or a seized motor. I have a $1K-2Kmax motor budget or else....

Andy
90 S2 Cab (twins)
#1 - 5.7 425hp
#2 - 3.0 on ice (5.7 T/A engine stand )

 

What was your oil pressure when it ceases? If you are sure the motor is ceased pull the head and start pulling pistons. Then loosen the mains and see if you can find the problem.

 

i have no idea. you should sell it to me so i can determine what's wrong with it

 

cute.... $6K and its yours. I bought it from the Porsche dealer for less than what a very good used 3.0 head costs, the head "should" be good.

 

as said before, there's no such thing as a cheap porsche...

 

are you trying to drop the engine with bellhousing intact and pull the clutch assembly off the driveshaft? or disconnecting the bellhousing from the block?

when i dropped my engine, i left the bellhousing intact, but it had to be perfectly parallel to the driveshaft to slip off. any slight angulation from parallel and the clutch assembly will not slide off the driveshaft. i had to lift the engine up slightly with a lift to remove the load on the driveshaft, while keeping it parallel. talk about a difficult one-man job

you have the four bolts disconnected that attach TT to bellhousing? once that was done, i could slide in a ball joint fork to wedge the two apart. does this help?

 

pretty much as described, 4 bolts at TT. bell house has to come off with the motor or at least the clutch does, can't be removed frozen. the only other way to go is pull pistion and hope the crank will spin and get the clutch moving.

I've tried the pry bar, push pull adjust, cuss.... I pulled a 3.0 the same way and it came out with some grunt, but this??!! Big hammer, big pry bars. I am pulling the clutch back against the pressure plate, the fork position is moved with a prybar wedge, equal spacing as one can get. Numerous push pull height balance.

 

I just did an R&R on the TT and clutch on cab #1 a few weeks ago, umm err too much hp? nahhhh.... Basically the same thing.

 

i beg to differ....i got mine for less than a lot of used camry's go for, and it's in great shape

 

did you remove the clutch fork rod?

 

Don't need to to slide the tt shaft out of the bellhousing, that's just to get the bellhousing off.

 

Update.

The drive shaft/TT splines have some damage from the engine locking up. Pulled out once the clutch was loose.

#3 rod cap insert was broke, crank wouldn't move. small piece broke off.

I went back to the car after sitting for a day or so. I could see heat - crank looks burnt at the rod bearings. After the oil was off it was evident. I pulled the cradle and the mains earlier, everthing looked fine then. The mains do not show the "burn" like the rods attach point.

Is this a lost cause, I'm going to have to pull apart the entire engine to check for any other damage. Is this fubr for an engine...

 

hmm, that sucks. take the crank to a machine shop and get their opinion. if it's not salvageable, there are probably at least some parts from a 3.0 engine that are salvageable.