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OPRV is stuck

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Old 09-04-2005, 11:08 AM
  #16  
hosrom_951
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I know someone who actually rebuilds the older OPRV's
Old 09-04-2005, 11:37 AM
  #17  
jmporsche944
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Originally Posted by Kevin Baker
Behind the crank pulley, there is a concave washer. If that washer is installed backwards, there will not be enough friction between the crank pulley and the oil pump, which is what drives the oil pump. I would think that, if that was the case, you would have oil pressure problems at all times.

How much more does the oil pressure drop? After warm up, 2-3 bar at idle is normal, with 5 at any kind of engine speed being a good number.
Is this washer behind the crank pulley or are you talking about the washer between the P/S pulley and the crank bolt? Maybe its worth putting the flywheel lock in and checking the washer your talking about? I took all the crank pulleys off to put the new timing belt on, i dont doubt that I could have screwed something up.

My oil pressure drops to .5-1 at idle and 1.5 under acceleration. I have never heard any wierd lifter noise or anything like that though. I know its not an electrical problem because both the idiot light flickers on when i idle.
Old 09-06-2005, 07:33 PM
  #18  
Kevin Baker
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Jeff, the washer I'm talking about is behind the crank pulley. It is very easy to put it in backwards and then have the problem that you are describing. I'd think it would be worth the effort to tear it down and recheck.

Sorry it took so long to reply. 2 month old and busy work do not lend me much Rennlist time anymore.
Old 09-06-2005, 07:37 PM
  #19  
jmporsche944
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Thanks for the reply Kevin. Now if this washer was on backwards, would it result in low oil pressure or no oil pressure?
Old 09-06-2005, 11:57 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by jmporsche944
Steve,

When the car is cold, the oil pressure is perfect. 5 bar at start up.. once it warms up a little, im at about 2-3 bar at idle and 5 bar under acceleration. Its once the car is fully heated up for a few minutes that my oil pressure goes down. So I assume this is due to the oil heating up and thinning out. I have castrol 20w50GTX in it right now. Maybe the oil is getting too hott? But what could cause that, faulty oil cooler? And why would it happen when I did my belt job?

I think you can see my confusion. Any ideas? Thanks for following my thread, its appreciated.

-Jeff

Sounds pretty normal to me............WHAT is the problem? "goes down" to what?...........2-3 bar at idle? Don't worry........be happy! Of course the oil thins out when it gets up to normal temp. and yes, oil pressure Will go down. NORMAL condition. I wouldn't "panic" unless it gets at 1.5 bar or less, at hot idle, and then........start worrying.
Old 09-07-2005, 01:32 AM
  #21  
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His oil pressure is getting down to less than 1 bar at hot idle. I think that if the washers are not correctly installed behind the crank pulley, as the engine is warming up, he is not getting enough volume from the pump to build sufficeint pressure.
Old 09-08-2005, 02:02 AM
  #22  
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This weekend ill tear it down and post back.. I supose theres no was to tell if the washer is on the correct way before I take off the crank pulley?
Old 09-08-2005, 03:43 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by jmporsche944
Steve,

.. Heres the one thing that really throws me off. When the car is cold, the oil pressure is perfect. 5 bar at start up.. once it warms up a little, im at about 2-3 bar at idle and 5 bar under acceleration. Its once the car is fully heated up for a few minutes that my oil pressure goes down.

I have castrol 20w50GTX in it right now.

My oil pressure drops to .5-1 at idle and 1.5 under acceleration. I have never heard any wierd lifter noise or anything like that though. I know its not an electrical problem because both the idiot light flickers on when i idle.

-Jeff
What I see are several things happening.
- Grounds, grounds, grounds...
- Possibly incorectly washer.
- Wrong weight oil
- Location

I used to run 20/50 in So Cal when I lived there, in a lot of different cars. Porsche suggested several different oil grades so no worries there. A 10/40 should give you the best range but on a 115 day a 20/50 would likely be better. You can't change it daily. Pick something in the middle. I think that I addressed location above. A single weight 20 would be GREAT if you were living in Alaska!

Good luck and keep an eye on the gauge. Check the washer when you get a chance and let us know how things turn out?

You check the other fluids for oil leaks or are you burning oil?

Michael
Old 09-08-2005, 01:04 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by jmporsche944
This weekend ill tear it down and post back.. I supose theres no was to tell if the washer is on the correct way before I take off the crank pulley?
These are what the crank pully washers look like. You'll have one or the other. If by chance you have "B" with the step, and it was put on wrong, you will have oil pressure problem, and you can see it by looking to see if that counterbore step is visable under the bolt head. I doubt you have it on wrong.

Don't use sandpaper to "clean" that OPRV piston valve, and/or the bore with. Scotchbrite wrapped around a 1/4" bottle brush, soaked in solvent. Wooden dowel will help get piston in/out. You don't want to grind away any more material on those parts thus increasing the fit tolerances.......all ya wanna do is clean the varnish/crap off, making it smooth again. Alignment is important, but not that hard without the "tool" either. At least on the early version.
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Old 09-08-2005, 01:53 PM
  #25  
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Isnt that the washer infront of the P/S pulley and behind the crankshaft bolt? Are there two washers? Maybe there isnt supposed to be a washer between the P/S pulley and the crankshaft, and I should have put it somwhere else?
Old 09-08-2005, 02:10 PM
  #26  
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Hmm, my oil pressure is fine at startup and under acceleration, but when the car is warmed up and idling, it flickers like crazy between 0.5-3... should I be worrying too?
Old 09-08-2005, 08:00 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by jmporsche944
Isnt that the washer infront of the P/S pulley and behind the crankshaft bolt? Are there two washers? Maybe there isnt supposed to be a washer between the P/S pulley and the crankshaft, and I should have put it somwhere else?
There is only one washer installed in the front of the crankshaft. The pulley that drives the ac and altenator bolts to the big balance shaft gear, then the power steering pulley slips over the end of crankshaft, the one, thick washer, and finally the crank bolt. No other washers are there on the shaft stackup. Torque on that bolt is what squeezes that seal sleeve/oil pump drive gear combination tight enough to allow the oil pump to be driven, and that gear/seal spacer combo not to slip on crank. If its loose, you'll not have proper oil pressure, because the pump is not being driven good or fast enough. Good luck.
Old 09-10-2005, 01:44 AM
  #28  
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After further thought, and getting my memory jogged by another thread.......there is a 2nd washer. It is a very small thin washer (as compared to the crankbolt washer) that backs up the crankshaft seal sleave's O-ring. I overlooked thinking about this washer. So stackup from front to back would be.... large bolt, large washer (A or B above), next would be the balance shaft gear (with the ac/alt. pulley bolted to it, camshaft drive gear, THIN washer, O-ring, seal sleeve/oil pump drive gear combo, and of course the oil seal that goes into the front of oil pump. (oh, of course the key for the belt gears in the shaft). Sorry for any confusion here. I wished I could print out the assy. diagram for this. But...I don't have it readily available. Check FSM and or Clark's garage.
Old 02-13-2006, 05:02 PM
  #29  
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Ever figure this out?
Old 02-13-2006, 08:54 PM
  #30  
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Old post. Makes ya wonder though......huh?
Is the engine toast........or did it get resolved? Hopefully.......resolved!


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